Jump to content

mbdblue

Members
  • Posts

    4543
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mbdblue

  • Birthday 04/02/1987

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    mbdblue

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Springfield, MA
  • Interests
    Audio, tools, money, money, money

Recent Profile Visitors

22132 profile views

mbdblue's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges

541

Reputation

  1. Your rear voltage shouldn't change a full 2 volts compared to the front. Sounds like you may be on the right path with your wiring. I would get another run of positive (and negative, unless you trust your frame grounds) from the front bat to the rear since 1/0 OFC is usually fused at 300 amps and your pulling more with that amp at 1/2; start from there. doesnt make sense to only have 1 run coming from the front battery to the back when you have 2 runs each going to the amp. Im wondering if your rear battery is choking cuz there's not enough current being provided from the front...thats probably whats causing the voltage difference...like others mentioned, the rear battery may also have an issue (possible dead cell?) The sub smell issue may be an entirely different thing...what are the specs of the box?
  2. complete shot in the dark, but Im saying old Crystals
  3. Those pictures make me think the box didn't survive the trip and the shipper just went wild with the tape...LIke you said, would be really interested to know if it left there facility like that. Id probably give them a call, send them the pictures/video and ask. I think every XS I've ever ordered has come in the manufacturer's box with styrofoam. Literally just got my D4700 yesterday; ordered from showtime (through ebay) and it came like that. Soon as I see it, I get the camera out. Thankfully, I've never had one damaged...but the syrofoam never survives in solid pieces.
  4. Saw this on their facebook page....always loved the death penalty, new surround looks cool too....Still want a 3rd gen with the STAR motor (I think it was the 3rd?).
  5. build coming soon

  6. looks nice man.... is there a reason the contact surface is removable from the hub? I've never seen that before... I don't really work on SUVs or trucks if it's more common though.
  7. They may be referring to how long your power wire is and the amp draw of the Kicker. You can start a fire if your power wire isn't big enough to support the current being pulled through it so it'll heat up. Get's hot enough, it can melt the outer jacket and arc against the body of the car. That being said, if your using quality 4 gauge, it's not 100 feet long, and it's fused, it's pretty unlikely to happen. as for the battery, it depends on your car's stock alternator, how old/big the battery under the hood is, and how many amps that Kicker is drawing from your stock electrical system. The first thing I'd do, is get a voltmeter or at least a DMM to monitor your voltage at the amp so you can determine if your car's stock electrical system can keep up with the amp's draw. If it tanks the voltage every time the bass hits, you may want to consider throwing in a small AGM for support, or just replace the starter battery with a bigger AGM if you have the room. on 1000 watts, I doubt you'll be able to hear the difference in loudness.
  8. I wouldn't....if you bought new, I would ask for a replacement.
  9. also could depend on how accurate the meter your using is...
  10. new car with more room. gotta get some equipment together

  11. between slot and aero would be too minimal to worry about in a smaller application and you probably wouldn't hear an audible difference. I'd go with a single SA in a ported box just because I like the way they sound. I wasn't impressed with the e-series but that was also their V1.
×
×
  • Create New...