Jump to content


SMD Silver Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

541 Excellent

About mbdblue

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/02/1987

Contact Methods

  • AIM

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    West Springfield, MA
  • Interests
    Audio, tools, money, money, money

Recent Profile Visitors

20622 profile views
  1. It might not be as heavy as MDF, but Maple isn't that light either...Unless your building a wall that's got a triple layer front baffle, I'd just spend a little extra cash and get the birch. You could also shop around to lumber yards cuz the "birch ply" they sell at home depot/ lowes is sometimes not great quality.
  2. Ive used these before with success...https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpa-38sn-hd-binding-post-pair-satin-nickel--091-1247 just another option
  3. Your rear voltage shouldn't change a full 2 volts compared to the front. Sounds like you may be on the right path with your wiring. I would get another run of positive (and negative, unless you trust your frame grounds) from the front bat to the rear since 1/0 OFC is usually fused at 300 amps and your pulling more with that amp at 1/2; start from there. doesnt make sense to only have 1 run coming from the front battery to the back when you have 2 runs each going to the amp. Im wondering if your rear battery is choking cuz there's not enough current being provided from the front...thats probably whats causing the voltage difference...like others mentioned, the rear battery may also have an issue (possible dead cell?) The sub smell issue may be an entirely different thing...what are the specs of the box?
  4. Ive mostly used the harbor freight style like triticum suggested....but you cant yard on them too much or the rubber handle will strip its threads and start free spinning. Has happened to me on a couple of them. Sometimes hitting up garage sales/yard sales for them is the best. they can be expensive if new, but a lot of people are trying to offload them, just gotta look out.
  5. The best tool you can use is a hose or a straight up bucket of water. Pour it around the Sunroof and see if your rear right tube is clogged. You should feel water in the trough after you test it, and Id peel back the seal in the doorway to see through the headliner. It seems odd to me that the sunroof drain would leak out that far back, since the lines on the front usually run down the A pillars and the lines in the rear run down the B....Cars sometimes have the rear drains running down the rear sail panels, but given this is an SUV, I'd say the B pillars. Could be disconnected maybe where the roof transitions to the side if they have an elbow there or something.
  6. complete shot in the dark, but Im saying old Crystals
  7. I need to buy a house. Neighbors in my apartment complex LOVE their surround sound and play it night and day, even after I've asked them to turn it down. Makes me want to say fuck it and run the Zv3 in my living room. Complete lack of consideration. This is why I hate people.
  8. Went to a best friend's wedding last weekend in Phoenix...just when the northeast is starting to get snow... my "compact car" I reserved... If it wasn't for family, I definitely wouldn't live up here.
  9. I never ran the brand new 15.1 I had....then I ran across a deal I couldn't pass up... Im a sucker for IA equipment. Unfortunately, I don't think Ill be doing another build for a while. But it will be in a different vehicle, and I plan on keeping the Zv3 18 for it.
  10. why didnt you play at 31 on the second test?
  11. thanks man. Battery box is painted with high heat now. hopefully installing before the weekend
  12. battery box I plasma cut and a buddy at work bent for me. bus bars are almost done....just need to sand them down to 6-800 and clearcoat
  • Create New...