mbdblue
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Posts posted by mbdblue
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That memphis amp is solid man. Id take it over the RE anyday. But its gonna come down to your application and which suits your setup better....there's no way to tell how they will perform head-to-head unless you buy them both...but not for 100 watts difference.
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You can look at it this way ... is your stolen system worth 100 dollars or should you save up and say your stolen system ( plus what they break to get it) worth 500 dollars for an alarm ? And I would have someone install for you because some company's will have a guarantee, like viper has a 2500 dollar guarantee if install by professional.
^^this is a good point....Also, I always forget to mention, talk to your insurance company to see if they cover stolen equipment from your car. Some will cover it as long as you have the receipts and it is fastened down. Another thing to consider is that most insurance companies will give you a small percent discount for having an alarm, but only if its been professionally installed.
And I don't know how Orion still has that alarm for sale. It should have been gone long ago.
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Depending on the car, its not a big deal. Use a DMM, not a test light. Test EVERY line, last thing you want to do is tap into the wrong wire. Take your time with it. Also consider going to a shop and asking how much they would do it for if you purchased the alarm from them too. Would probably be a little over your budget, but something to consider.
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Id use #6 black screws and paint a black rectangle border on the plexi to hide the seam.
What about when you put stuff in the trunk?? WOnt the paint scratch/chip/peel?
if the hardwood laminate doesn't scratch/chip/peel, theres no reason why it would.....He also could paint the bottom side of the plexi so it just hides the hardwood floor edge. A screw every 4-5 inches or so would probably look nice matching the vents on the sides and the long hinge.
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Id use #6 black screws and paint a black rectangle border on the plexi to hide the seam.
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Can't go wrong with a viper alarm man...but you didn't really say what you were looking to get out of it. If it has all the functions your looking for, then Id get it; but just know I believe Directed is not authorizing online dealers so its not under manufacturer's warranty (Ray just made a thread about this). the extra shock sensors I don't really see necessary mainly because a shock sensor should be able to sense any glass breaking, opening doors, etc....maybe if the thieves around your town are super crafty.
What i am trying to get out of it is get the best protection i can of my truck and also get a paging system so i know if anyone is trying to mess with my truck when i am not near it. i want a sensitive alarm and loud one lol.
I would definitely hit up Orion for that deal then....just like everything else though, always understand that if someone wants your shit bad enough, they're gonna get it. If you have a smart phone Id get the smartstart system too so you can monitor and control your car from anywhere.
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Can't go wrong with a viper alarm man...but you didn't really say what you were looking to get out of it. If it has all the functions your looking for, then Id get it; but just know I believe Directed is not authorizing online dealers so its not under manufacturer's warranty (Ray just made a thread about this). the extra shock sensors I don't really see necessary mainly because a shock sensor should be able to sense any glass breaking, opening doors, etc....maybe if the thieves around your town are super crafty.
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Id agree with others man, theres really no winning. Unfortunately, it seems like the times have changed and companies are taking advantage of their employees knowing that its difficult to find a new job; they already know no ones gonna quit so they'll do whatever they want. Id go elsewhere man...I know what you mean by working for a company you don't agree with.
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1. Are you grounds good? Ground is good.
2. What is your voltage full tilt and when it fried? No voltmeter yet.
3. What is the ohm load the amp is seeing 4 ohms.
4. Have you done the big 3? Not yet.
5. How is the amp mounted Heatsink up mounted to box with spacers.
6. Were you clipping, are you sure, are you really sure? Volume was down.
7. How did you set your gains? By ear. Don't have the funds for a DD-1 yet.
8. Bass boost? Off
9. Eq settings? Flat
10. Were you clipping? Not Clipping
11. What was your voltage? Unknown
12. What alt do you have? Factory unit
As for "This time for good" The amp would go into protect when it hit low Hertz on high volume. It was wired to 4 ohms. Subwoofers were 4 ohms. It's a very basic system. I think something just shorted out. I was just curious as to what might have gone wrong. The amp was not treated badly.
you don't know where your voltage was, so you could have been dipping down lower than 12 volts. You set your gains by ear, so everything in red is unknown since you can't tell if you were clipping (you can still be clipping even if your volume isn't maxed out). and whats in blue suggests that your voltage was dipping, causing the amp to go into protect.
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These are the questions that you are going to see if anyone else responds.
1. Are you grounds good?
2. What is your voltage full tilt and when it fried?
3. What is the ohm load the amp is seeing
4. Have you done the big 3?
5. How is the amp mounted
6. Were you clipping, are you sure, are you really sure?
7. How did you set your gains?
8. Bass boost?
9. Eq settings?
10. Were you clipping?
11. What was your voltage?
edit.
i forgot one
12. What alt do you have?
^^^should be set to autopost whenever this question comes up
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my bet would be on sounding bad too. but give it a try before you try and mold it in or something
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hard question to answer without pics, but I would definitely putty that line where they meet...vinyl is close to paint in finish, it will show up. If you can feel where the transition is, you have to keep working on it.
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damn man thats fucked up. Id love to weld....but its one of those jobs you just have to find the right people, or have 10+years experience because everyone wants you to come in and bang out work like you've done it your whole life. Keep looking man, you'll find something.
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the d1400 is a 14 volt battery, meaning it charges up around 15.5-16 volts. Didn't know if you knew that.....but Id make sure your DTS electrical is okay with charging that high.
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think its about time to get a gun license...
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If I didn't have my 3000GT, I'd want a 5th gen Prelude. They may be a but more though. Hell, I'd even settle for a 4th gen
^^^SETTLE??!! haha, j/k man....
Can't go wrong with a Honda/Acura/Toyota, and you can definitely find a decent one with 6k. I bought my car for a little over 3k and the only trouble its given me is the starter going out. 90 bucks and 2 hours later it was back on the road.
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Only 150ft lbs of torque, 14.8 quarter mile. Over 6 second 0-60. Meh, meh, and meh.
was curious so I looked it up.....24-26 grand for ^^^^that??? oh hell no.
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they could have done better with it.....think if they kept it a subaru or toyota, they could have pulled off something a little more expensive, but impressive too. Wouldn't be surprised if the original plans were "tuned down" for scion.
edit: then again, I'm biased cuz I hate scion....
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best answer I can give is, depends completely on the color your going with and how deep those dings are. If your going with a very common color (silver) its probably the best color to hide scratches and dings. but darker colors black, dark blue, etc. is gonna be pretty obvious. Also, no matter what, a ding is gonna be easier to see with brand new paint...there's really no hiding it. But I would have them take those dings out too while your there.
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did vanilla ica and paul wall fuck and have a child?
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sounds the same as all the rest to me. This whole youtube broadcasting yourself thing is getting a little ridiculous.....the line is fading between talent and just more of the same bullshit.
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favorite scene
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strange line of cars....civic and VW completely out of place.....shit, the escalade is out of place money-wise
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that slamming doors thing is actually a myth. A lot of shops don't use stops so the shield won't slide, (there are very few that need it) they just tape it up for 24 hours (our glue is 5 minutes, then that things not going anywhere). Some cars/trucks come with stops but most of the time they get hacked off by the tech who replaces the shield. Theres a lot more corruption in this job than one may think....
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How long should you let a new windsheild set and cure before you hammer on the subs again?
I made the mistake of waiting a day after and I have to go back to safe lite to get it fixed. The windshield apparently slid down, and the weather stripping is almost exposing where it sits. Thanks!
depends on what kind of urethane they use....I work for one of there competitors in the new england states, our glue states that the car is safe to drive after one hour (meaning the urethane has reached its tensile strength, and if a collision occurs, the glass will hold even with the passenger side airbag going off against it). But the glue does stay wet (not fully cured) for a couple days after its been applied. If safelite's glue is similar, you could wait a couple days to make sure. The glass sliding down can definitely happen regardless whether you had your subs going or not, especially on a hot and humid day.
tell me about this amp
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ah in that case, you can clamp them and test which does better. But all depends on whose interested man. Those memphis amps are worth more than you can get the RE for though...plus IMO, the memphis is better quality than the RE. But with only 1000 watts, the difference between 0 and 2 gauge inputs is miniscule.