ehuber87

i havent done any dampening yet, no. i plan on doing the doors and the trunk...possibly the rear deck. My amp pushes 75w RMS to each speaker, unless i bridge it and put 150w RMS to the components alone... active would be 75w to each tweeter, and 75w to each woofer. My sub has 500w RMS once its back in the trunk.

I've been on Soundman's forum quite a bit and a lot of people there suggesred it as a solution for the most accurate and clean sound im looking for. Currently im running passive to my feots and the rears off the deck and its not nearly as clean as im looking for. Tuned to a sample system JL Audio has posted with identical setup... Im just trying to find my sound, and i havent tried active yet.

Im driving a 92 honda accord ex-r coupe. My component woofers are in the factory location and the tweeters i cut into the door panel beside the lock/handle mechanisms. The sub will be rear firing in the trunk. As mentioned above, i plan on placing dynamat on the doors and the trunk.

I actually have two w3's and am building both a ported box and a sealed box...so i can intechange them as i see fit. I plan on using sound dampened on the doors and the trunk, although it will be my first fime installing dampened. Everything else i've been installing for years. My cars, friends cars and even a short i stall career at Visions Electronics while i was selling mobile audio equipment. I've done the big 3 and currently run larger than necessary wire all around. Install shouldnt be an issue

current setup: alpine cda-9886 h.u jl audio c3-650 components (front) jl audio c2-690 coaxials (rear) jl audio 300/4v2 4ch (speakers) jl audio 12w3v3-4 woofer jl audio 500/1v2 mono (subs) The biggest question is... how can i use what I have to get the best, most accurate sound? Recently really got into electronic music and i've seen a few shows live...I want to be able to get that clean sound and power in my car! So here's what I've been thinking; buy new h/u (Alpine CDA-117) and PXA-H100 (IMPRINT processor + tuning kit) and dispose of my rear 6x9's...run "active" front stage (75w RMS to each tweeter and each 6.5" woofer) and throw my w3 in a sealed enclosure spec'd by JL Audio. Yay or nay? I want to be able to get solid mid-bass from my 6.5's, crisp highs from my tweets, and a full substage. Does anyone have experience with IMPRINT? Is it user friendly? Would I be better off with a full 32-band eq?

thanks for the quick replies guys! the subs are SVC 4ohms So i'd be running either a 2 ohm 1000w or i'd have two seperate 4 ohm 500w... one dedicated to each woofer. I was leaning to towards the single amp for a cleaner install, but having 3 identical amps could look pretty sick as well! But without upgrading my alternator, im thinking the less load the better so... the single amp should suffice. And either amp setup would have the same impedance... they're variable from 1.5 ohm to 4 ohm stable. Gotta love JL Audio!

TGIF! Im working on overhauling my car setup and have a (probably) stupid question. My old setup was 2 12 JL Audio W0's running off of a JL Audio 500/1v2 amp, however, i recently upgraded to 2 12 W3's and I want to throw more power at them. My question is, is ONE 1000w amplifier better than TWO 500w amplifiers? Its about the same price for me to buy a JL Audio 1000/1v2.... or just another 500/1v2. Regardless of the setup, its the same power to the subs. Im just wondering if two amps would result in more current draw from the electrical system, or if draw is solely based on power output. I am running a seperate 4-channel for my mids and highs, so it still a multi-amp system. Any more info ya need to answer the question let me know! Cheers

Wondering if you're planning on gettin some aftermarket taillights in black, or if you were simply going to smoke or mask the factory lights? Also, any plans to do the same to the brake lights above the rear windshield? Candy blue is sexy... rims aren't too shabby either! lol