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thecat666

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Everything posted by thecat666

  1. Noticed the new Sa 15 magnet is chrome and no longer black why is that and is it a new revision, and if so what does it mean for the driver.
  2. What i mean is if using as singular wire yes 200 amp rating, but what if you are using a dual input would you only use 100 amp er wire or 200 amp per wire
  3. When using dual input connectors on sundown 2500 amps do you also run 2 x 200 amp fuses or 100 to each line or would you run 150 to each line. Tell me what you or others have done.
  4. AIl am trying to find out is what is the max size any 2500 or 3500 user or tester has used and if they have used more than 250amp fuse when @.5 ohms on 2500 no flash remarks just facts. No n8ball2013 not using the equipment you described, Using saz 2500@ .5ohms right now with 3 banner agm batteries 2 more batteries to come and original 150amp alt with external regulator driving charge on batts is 14.6v - 14.7v when I compete in a United Kingdom format call Propperdroppers I turn external regulator up to 15.1v – 15.2v, we test 20hz 25hz 33hz 40hz then you find your peak hz then divide by 5. Which is the number of different scores that have been achieved. By doing this we get the TOTAL AVERAGE score achieved, as of last weekend on its first outing with new batteries the amps @just before the 11 position on 16 x 12” subs 8 subs per amp averaged 151.1db which was all without setting anything up so I have a bit more to come. Thanks to all who have commented, I will stick with the 250amp cheers.
  5. My power supply is fine i just wanted to hear from people that are actually running or have run any of the 2 amps above at .5ohms and what fuse sizes did they use. Yes i know they no longer warranty amps below 1ohm, also a lot of people drive daily with .5 ohm not just for competition.
  6. Quick question when running either 2500 or 3500 @ .5 ohms what size fuse do you guys use, now manufactures say 250amp fuse for 1ohm loading on one and 350amp the other. what i want to know is if running at .5 ohms on either amp would or should you increase your fuse size slightly and if so what have you guys done.
  7. well i am thinking of using min 10 x 12" subs max 16 x12" subs, so i am looking for all build logs and builders that have used the level 2s or level 3s in a large multi sub set up. more so the L2s but L3s will do as well thank so far guys.
  8. Thanks so far chaps had a good read is there anymore level 2 or level 3 multi sub builds preferably 12" but 10"-15" will do.
  9. Anyone got a dc level 2-3 multi sub set up with links that i can read over preferably 4 subs plus, walls no walls whatever.
  10. can i get a price including delivery to london england please,looked on web site and it was saying $152 just for shipping that cant be right,or is it.
  11. im from london england,getting board of current build so am looking for ideas for something new.
  12. well worked out after new bracing internally is 5.69 per sub so im happy for now.
  13. This is the last lot of pictures of the current build; I was rushing to make the opening pure carma event. System was only fired up 2 hour before I was leaving for Essex, the subs sounded real loud and smooth, nothing was set up went as it was . got to pure carma then decided we would amp gain got a lot of help from the (P D MOB) and others so a big thanks to them, then wanted to see what it was doing as we got to around to 20hz 144.4 db the amp went down so we did a quick run with one sub passive the other working but kept it low. By then I was feeling a bit pissed cause I knew I was leaving for work but with 1 amp down I left half hour earlier. So about 3- 6 days later back wall off a threaded rod straight through the front baffle to the back wall and re-wired both subs voice coils separately so I could do it all at boot side. The next thing I did was wire both subs to one 2 ohm load they were getting about 500-555 rms per sub and they were f***ing loud. Got the amp repaired vibration killed it a few days later the other one went down so sent the other one off a week and a bit later amp is back all fixed and ready to go, both amps on sub duty, so I have gain matched them really low until I re-do the back wall which will be done within the next 2 weeks. More pictures Will be shown when I get round to re-trimming front baffle and doing amp area I won’t go mad on the rear as I will be changing it just not sure when I’m going to start. Or which one to build yes I know I said 2 builds for the year but I’m just writing things down and thinking that’s all lol. Big thanks to wifey for helping whenever she could. Big thanks to these guys; they helped me whenever I need it. Most of them I spoke to day and night so I thank them and their lovely wife’s girlfriends for allowing me to call sometime while they were at home. (paul mazdawg) (marcos mega heavybass) (lee celica) (kerian bassnazi) (skippersounds) (alex) (ben Mr Bt Boomer) (Tony proppadroppa) (matty) (parks) (Agi) and anyone I missed.
  14. the floor and side walls have 36mm the front baffle has 54mm i just didnt want to do 36 on back wall. but i will change that over the next few weekends.this will be a build that i will keep until finals then i might do something different, im trying to do only 2 builds this year not 7 like last year lol.more pictures to come. I will be adding another sheet to the back wall to make it 36mm it will then have 3” x 2” bracing on the outside then amp plates will be screwed to that, also on the inside I will be adding another rectangular bracing made of 3” x 2” on the inside which will leave me with just over 5.5 cft per sub port will go from 26.99hz to about 28.02hz so I can screw back wall even more tightly and securely. These pictures test fitting the front baffle and flange mouth area and routing sub cut outs, then another test fit before gluing and screwing all of the cab together.
  15. Next I got on with making the port which is 22.5”x 4” by 24” long then I started drilling lots and lots of pilot holes then recessing all the screw holes for the front baffle, then it was onto the battery tray so a quick mock up before I decided what I was going to do,cab is well braced inside plus 5 rods through the whole lot and trust me the Mmat juggys just off 550 rms each was still flexing the back wall and now that both amps are playing it is getting weaker so I will have to brace again.
  16. A few more pics of the build all dry fit until I was sure; I was doing what I wanted with this build. All done with a dislocated shoulder which is still painful and I still don’t have much good movement with the bloody arm yet.as with all my builds I try to stay within my c-pillar area, one day I will bust out into the realm of the b-pillar just not with this car.
  17. The cab is just over 5.91cft per sub tuned to 26.99 hz after all bracing is taken out, I have an arched loading area above port which is around 3 cft plus .my loading area has a large flange 31” at its widest point 22“inner then 8” height. Had been running around with both subs wired as a 2ohm load until the blown amp came back, all I can say is vibration is a killer because less than 2 weeks of receiving amp back the second one went. Got it fixed yes vibration again on other amp, more pictures soon.
  18. A quick look at what I have been playing with recently, thanks to j Royce and mazdawg for helping me get hold of these bad boy 18” subs thanks to matt for the batteries and my family of streetbassers you know who you are for being at the end of the phone day and night I called and got the most help .so thanks guys, big shout to (kerian) (lee Celica) ( ben ) (Alex)( Mega heavy bass) and anyone else I forgot to mention for helping me when I was at purecarma setting amp up before I blew one through vibrations. This was done over 3 weeks but only working when not at work so some long mornings before and after work, roughly 10 day proper work out of 3 weeks. just posting these pictures up until i get a chance to put the rest up.
  19. the thing is i really want my sub central in cab not to keen on sub one end port other,i understand that port width maybe to small 1.5 inch each side so you say shrink height of cab to get better width port each side is that correct.if i shrink height then i lose more cft. so what i wrote below is that correct if i want split port into 2 3.4 cft internal. the port height is 419mm that will stay the same the width of port is 88mm that will half to 44mm length to stay at 20.i was given formula to work out width of port. cuft of box after displacement x 16 = sq in of port opening then dividing this by internal height gives me the port width.recomended lengh for dd tuning was 20 inches gives between 35-40 hz. so my way of thinking is 88mm x 419mm / 508mm long eg 44mm x 419 /508 long x2
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