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adreano17

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Posts posted by adreano17

  1. Yeah they think they can play you or give you the run around, like DjCrush said TELL them How they will solve your problem and do not take no for an answer, they believe they have a noob on there hands and you might be but they dont know that. Just make sure the next time you talk to them let them know they cant play you sooo give you your money back and for them to take their shitty alt and shove it.lol

    its rebuilt.....thats the problem. so technically, its mine for keeps. :shrug:

  2. I took it back. They basically blamed the 0 gauge wire for the blown diodes, and my charging system is bad through electrical. from my understanding, when the car is on, if the alt is proper, it should be 14.4-14.6 at idle, and at higher rpm. its not adding up...maybe the alt is just shit truthfully. it shouldn't be doing all this....blown diodes because of less current pull on a wire is crazy talk.

  3. Low voltage because of better conductivity? LMAO, teach them a thing or two, then tell them to fix the shitty alt they sold you.

    I was thinking the same thing, but they said only one wire can be on the alternator.

    Who built the alt?

    a local shop in baltimore. http://thebestbattery.com/

    They are blaming it because of my alternator charging wire is too small (factory). It doesn't stay at 14.4V when RPM up, most is 14.4V Idle, i dont even want to talk about. this is what is pissing me off....

  4. I have tried this and all you need is a good quality 16 AWG wire for an L7 (Short length of 1-2 meter). Used wires from 22AWG to 8 AWG on L7. And tested the benefit of 16AWG(pure copper) vs 12 AWG (Branded) on TL.

    I can say for Pure Copper wire and not the aluminum mixed. I use 8 AWG for hi output setup especially if the wire quality cant be determined. This is for headroom sake only.

    Good info man. what yu running for 8 ga?

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