Tarball
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Posts posted by Tarball
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Bump for plausibility of 3000 rms?
you should be fine with 3kRMS and the BEST (amps at idle) alt you can get. Also, don't get cheap powerwire. But you wont be drawing peak amps all the time unless you plan on driing around with a 30hz test tone playing full tilt.
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Im helping a friend if mine do a temporary build in his 2008 dodge mega cab dually..
He has 4 15" solo L7's laying aroun the he wants to use... He also will be powering them with his AB 500.1 (most likely turned down a tad lol) but anyways he's got like right at 6 cubes after bracing and sub displacement
It is a truck box style wedge and the big question is should he try to do 2- 15" ported towards the roof (firing up) or do all 4 in a sealed common chamber?? Keep in mind this is a mega cab it has a lot of cabin space to pressurize..
Thanks guys!
I just worked off midnights so I'm gna sleep for a bit and then he said he's comin over at like 12 or 1 and wer going to cut out the baffle and finish it so all opinions welcome lol
Be different, go 4 ported iso.
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would the sub even fit into the box like that or did you plan on inverting it ?
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Personally I would either mount the sub in the surface that currently has the port or I would bend the port on the bottom of the box to get the same length. I hope that makes some sense. I just dont like how 1/2 the sub would be dumping right into the port.
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Gonna order another battery to replace that cheap POS, im limited on space so not too many options out there
Id do XSpower but damn they are price, i was liking the D5100's
prob gonna go with a Kinetic HC1400
What batt(s) are you running in the back ?
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Prolly needed to be thrown on the charger before she got thrown in.
I'm gonna say this wouldhave abeen a good idea.
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yup. both batteries are connected to the amp.
ok i see what you mean
Make sure to run a 1/0 ground from the engine block to the frame. I don;t see that in your diagram and it's an essential part fo the BIG "3".
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I say "Off With Her Head!!"
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yeah 1 12" can get pretty wicked sounding if done correctly. I had 1 12" Kove armagedon Z in a ext cab (bandpass) back in the day and it was very nice. No vids though and I didn't even know what a hairtrick was then to even try it.
Anyways...mad props and keep the vids flowing.
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On topic
IMO we should have to pay sales tax on every online purchase, regardless of the state, period. It should be no different than going to a store. It's bad enough that a brick and mortar store has to spend money to stock items that an online store can just drop ship, in addition to the cost if real overhead. But to have to eat another nearly 10% to keep up with pricing is just not fair.
Even though it's not in my best interest as an online consumer I have to agree with the statement above in bold. There is a reason for taxes and finding ways around the tax is not in the best interest of the state/country.
With that said, I have to also agree that what is done with the tax money is B.S. I don't pretend like I have a complete solution but just not paying taxes is certainly not the answer.
Sure the little guy / poor folks / hard working middle America should get some breaks. But if you are making online purchase....especially for your car audio system...you can pay some tax.
Tax the millionaires FTW!!
**Edited for grammatical errors**
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uhhmm
What do I have to complain to my Dr about to get a script for x-tra tint ?
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Ok i unplugged the red rca from 2channel and have the white rca still in the amp and it works fine. What could cause this? When i plug the red rca in its instant protect.
What if you plug the white RCA into the Red port on the 2ch?
What if you unplug only the white RCA from the 2ch?
What if you disconnect the speakers from the amp and try one side at a time on each side of the 2ch amp with various combinations of Red and White from the deck to Red and White on the 2ch.
You are on to something just keep troubleshooting and try to isolate the problem.
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The only problem i see is Door trigger inputs and trunk inputs will be read at 16v when a zone is closed/open
Wouldn't 16.2-16.8 volts be bad for the vehicles electrical system? Consider a step down module or 2.
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Nice movement.
My only complaint is...why do people continue to say things like...not even full power? Why show us low power and expect us to mentally multiply the air movement by 2x, 4x, or even 8x to envision full power?
It's to establish that, although this is completely bad ass, there is still room for growth and will be even more bad ass with increased power and additional break in time.
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Torres has good advice here. Try to isolate the problem.
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It definately works.
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Would a second alt be cheaper then getting a HO alt?
For 4kw you want your 2nd alt be H.O.
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Gotta love the good ole pioneer humm.
I do this to every pioneer I install.
Call it ghetto if you want but its inside the dash so i couldn't care less about how it looks, it simply works.
I'd call it creative ingenuity.
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Even at an idle ur not burnin that much fuel. I have a 5.9L V8 magnum and i've locked my keys in it before and no one could break into my car for me for 4 hrs. I barely lost any gas at all.
idling is not good for your car for extended periods of time though, it can be extremely taxing on the cooling system especially in the summer heat
If your car has problems keeping the engine cool at idle...even in the summer time...there is an underlying problem that should be addressed.
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Hey guys, well you know how you set the wattage from your amp, to set it lets say to 500watts. Well when you turn your volume at the headunit up, the bass goes up as well so im assuming putting in more wattage to your sub. So when you have 500watts set, and you turn the volume up, can it go over that limit? Im confused on this, sorry if i can't be more clear. Thanks
Hmmm...where to start.
"well you know how you set the wattage from your amp"
What do you mean by the above statement?
Maybe it will be easier to tell us what type of equipment you have and what you are accomplish.
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Nobody wants a beast sub?
seriously drooling just bad timing.
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Also, when you pre-drill make sure you are using the right drill bit. You want to leave engouh meat in the hole for the srew to have something to grab onto. What i do is us a drill bit that is approx. the size of the center solid part of the screw shaft. so..hold the screw behind the bit and you should see the threads on both sides; bit behind the screw and you may see the very edge of the bit. Hope you understand what Im trying to exaplain, would be much simpler if i had a visual aid.
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Hiya, whats the thread count on this wire ?
what upgrades needed for 2000W
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted · Edited by Tarball
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