-
Posts
1862 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Tarball
-
-
Funny I know of a couple 160+ cars useing only CCA wire but I see 1 million and 1 little 140db guys swear cca is so bad
Yes the 160 guys have more wire to make up for the cca current draw backs still a shit ton cheaper when you have to run that much wire
It all comes down to how much current the wire can handle over how much distance and what your system will draw. To each their own I say, as long as the end result is wire that will handle the load and deliver the power it needs to.
Me, I'm lazy. Rather have 1 or 2 runs of OFC than 4+ runs of CCA to deliver the same power.
-
IT really comes down to how much power you are going to run through the wire. If its a small to moderate system you should be able to "get away" with CCA. But I would use OFC KNU. For a standard big 3 you don't need much wire and it doesn't make sense to go cheap on a major part of the electrical system. I am all about saving money but part of being frugal is spending money on the right stuff the first time.
-
Send them back and get the correct product.
-
T would get complicated.
If its a tru basic T then you would get cancelation .
the T part would need to be 1/2 the area of the rest of the 6" port.
Stick with either an L or a few 45deg elbows well place . It will be simpler.
-
I've used a type R before in a bandpass (single 12") and they are a nice sub for the price and all things considered. What type of sound are you trying to get out of them?
Check this box design out, I've always wanted to do one but your situation seems like it could fit, you would iso the subs.
-
Do still have another 0 to 4ga distro block left ?
-
chek your ohm reading on the coils (individual) just to see if there is any variation
swap the subs in the box and see if the same one gets warm
-
I would run 300 amp fuses for each line. Fuse to the rating of the cable for this type of setup and not the rating into the amp. Otherwise you aren't gaining anything with the dual inputs.
^^ this
I would only do this if the amp has an internal fuse. Ask the guys at Sundown and see what they say.
-
150 would be the safe way to go. You want to fuse at or below your equipment fuse rating to protect it.
-
Add 2 of the stinger inline fuse holders and the 200a fuse
-
How many leads are on the 0 to 4ga distro blocks?
-
I'll take the 4ga black and the volt meter
-
Its possible to run 14v or 16v batteries but it's pricey and easy to screw something up. You can also make you alt put out more voltage - even a stock alt.
Unless you know what you are doing, take the advice that's been given and stick with 12v batts.
-
Look at the thickness of the magnet and also the distance between the surround and the center cap. Even that M3 Mojo is beefier than the pic you posted. That is a regular M3.
-
can you do this for 14v batts too
-
bump
-
Pm'd need PP info.
-
This is a voltage control module, not a battery. Thatnks
-
2nd dibs, PayPal ready.
-
^^^^^
-
Really!?! Nothing from no one. Not even a smart ass remark or a good chastising??
-
How many amps are you consistantly pulling?
-
Titla says, need one of these asap.
-
Big 3 Wire brand suggestions
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
It's actually power if you think about it. Current and a given Voltage = Power. Current with no volts = no power.