ExtremeOz

I have a Alpine IVA-D800E and its the same everything flat and bass boost 15/15 and can turn it all the way up to 35/35 and no distortion light comes on =/ However i do have a question for that, I never listen to music past 18-22 so wouldn't that mean id need to turn my HU up to 35 just to get the maximum sound/potential out of my system?

Id like to know aswell as i was 182 or it was 192 and havent got any emails yet =(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8J4jBRgT8g ^^^^ what he says

DDm3 running at 2ohm.

Just a little vid of my system, most of the back of the car is pulled apart as im waiting for some more dynamat to arrive in the week so i can finnaly finnish it...

They are sexy i love the look of them! Well i was half thinking of even bringing them with me and then contacting DD and try turn them into 15" or 18"s

If only.... Only way can explain it is their the unofficial model between the 95s and Zs ( in a way )

Ok im moving to the US at the end of the year and have 2 DD9910's sitting here in box's doing nothing so im just wondering how much these sell for over there any rough prices? Im just trying to decide whether its worth me bringing them with me and sell them when i get there or just sell them here in aus with the rest of my audio gear I noticed SMD dont have a price cheek section this would have to do lol

its my B-day cake from the other night no way that thing woulda fit in my old fridge Hahaha well happy b-day for the other night 3k for a fridge FFFFFFFFFFk that.... ill be sticking to my ghetto fridge $50 secondhand hahaha But ill admit that fridge dose look sexy

Screw the pepsi i want whats in the red box next to it... Im guessing its cake or donuts mmmmmmm donuts

So even tho im changing it to 2 common walls i still need 2 L shaped wall @ 27" each?

Another little bit of help needed If i was to change the "common port walls" to 2 do i just divide the 27" so its 13.5" for each wall?

good lest im doing something right now lol thanks alot for the help everyone.

Thats the closest i think i can get to 60sqin if i go to 60 then my net vol gets around 4.50-4.60. and my box W is at its MAX i have maby 5mil space to slide the box in.

Ok i can sorts get a 18" box in but there aint gonna be any room left lol

I was just about to say the same thing. also i dont think i could get a 18" high box into my hatchback it would be hitting the back window i think, ill go cheek.

If only it had that option =( I do that by widning the port width yes? if so i changed it to 4" but then the Hz went way up to 55+hz i changed the port length but i had to change it by some rediculas amout just to get it back to 37hz. Sorry im epic fail when it comes to ports =/

That dont exactly help me lol... What you mean?

Ive got 2 RE SEx 12s and the box they are in just sounds lame imo dosnt hit low at all and dosnt sound very loud at all. The specs i got from the RE site that was recommended for the subs. The specs for the box are 3cub tunes to apparently 28.75hz I just did another box but bigger tho im not sure if its going to make a difference... not sure if its even done right =/ i dont know how to work in inchs lol only know mm My max dimensions in the back of my car are: H 400mm - 15.747inch W 990mm - 38.975inch D 650mm - 25.589inch If anyone knows a better box design id love the help!!! Also pretty much every box i see on here has a 4inch port opening why have them so wide?

Someone needs to do some reading... on both installs and ho to set gains on a amp.You may have already clipped your subs to death man. I know how to set gains on a amp and as for clipping i guess you have never used a DD amp befor? They have a external gain control with a clipping detector on them that u can put upfront of your car so you can see if clipping occurs. As for install it pretty much is: Gonna test another ampanyway and see if anything happends.

Something seems like it would be wrong if you can barely hear them on that M3@2ohm. Donno i turned the bass boost up on my HU to its max and they started to sound like they are ment to but imo i shouldnt have to turn up my HU bass boost for them to work... If i cant get them to work right im gonna go back to my 2 10s as they went 3000x louder and harder then these.

lol some interesting replys ill say that! I ended up hooking them up to a DDM3 @ 2ohm which is only putting out 1500watt so 750watt per sub and they are only moving a tiny bit (can only just hear them), And thats with the stereo turned up to my max listening level.... So ill drop them down to .5ohm which will be roughly 3200watts so 1600watt per sub and see what happends (And yes i have the power to back it up)

Thanks for the input, The box im going to be making is the same size as they recommend 1.5 Cubed per sub at 35Hz. we're not all stupid.. To the OP, 2000w each is too much. You only have to look at RMS from woofers, never at peak ratings, those are useless. 600 each will be much better and 600 each is perfect, they don't need more. Thanks well i guess i wont be using the Z1a on these subs ill look for somthing around the 2.5k mark as id still like to put a little more then 600 into them.

Thats true but on the box it says "Up to 2000watts power handling" So thats why im a little paranoid as to how much power i can actually give them, I pretty much want to give them as much as they can take/handle. 2000 watts peak power handling, don't go by that, go by the rms rating which is 600rms, that's the amount of continuous power they can take, you need to wire that amp to two ohms which is a combination of series-parallel. Yeh i was planing to wire the subs down to 2ohm to the amp via series-parallel. As for the 600rms im guessing the bottom line is that Z1a is just WAY over kill and i should use somthing like a DDM2(1700watt) or DDM3(2400watt) amp?

Thats true but on the box it says "Up to 2000watts power handling" So thats why im a little paranoid as to how much power i can actually give them, I pretty much want to give them as much as they can take/handle.