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Max-x

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About Max-x

  • Birthday 10/11/1993

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  1. http://www.sonicelec...t-One-FREE.html i ran these kickers for quite a while till some ass hole stole them from my car, they are good budget 15s decent sound but pretty loud too but id only run them to maybe 600 watts total i ran them at 500 EDIT: they say up too 500 each but i wouldnt run them that high for that long
  2. ok cool no worries im not gonna start building it for a week or so probable
  3. got it! -- http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=bc8647e37dc0463f78972dd71c0c6f90
  4. ya it was glitching and wouldnt save but i evnetually got it to save, but i cant upload to the warehouse cus i cant figure out how to get a google nickname thing :/
  5. alrighty so since i am still a noob at box building, what will i have to do to help brace the box and the port? edit: also and as far as that box goes vs mine the port on that box is one big long one, were my box is split into two chambers and two ports of about 20 inch each instead of one for 40"
  6. Alright i can see the port issues happening, but the box is designed 30" deep and tall and the trunk i believe has either 3 feet or 3 and a half feet deep so 36" or like 40" deep so it would have more than enough room for the extra port area between the box and the trunk door i think
  7. so basically same box just rotated subs up instead of back or forwards? thats easy enough since the box is 30x30inch anyway
  8. yes the specs are per chamber, and you think the best way to go would be subs and port up? would that be louder than subs and port back or front? or just simpler?
  9. Hello all! This is my first box design and im building it for my advanced woodshop class at school and im looking for some info to help it hit loudest: It is designed to use 2 18" level 4 subs from DC audio, its designed for mostly daily use but might do comps if i can find any in Colorado this is the Box And here is the info from the box calculator (the box is a two chamber) What im wondering is were is the best location for the port, it will be likely facing forwards against the trunk door of my Grand Cherokee, and i was wondering if it would be better to have it on the plane of the subs or if the box would be louder facing backwards too. will add link to sketchup when i figure it out anyway, what do you think about it and what could i change to make it louder.
  10. This is my new box i just built, it was a stock kicker box except the port was gone so i got it for cheap and this is my work to fix the ports, tuned to about 32 hz
  11. This is my new box i just built, it was a stock kicker box except the port was gone so i got it for cheap and this is my work to fix the ports, tuned to about 32 hz
  12. how much would it be for 4 level 3 12" subs, or 2 18" level 3 or 4 and a 2.0k and 5.0k to zip 80526?
  13. 2 fi ssd 18's would be a decent match for that amp. to be safe i'd go with the fi Q's since rockford amps are underrated. and as far as the cones go they'd be able to handle dubstep just fine. really the weight difference between the cones is pretty insignificant. woofer cones are made to be lightweight. now if you started getting into the 20"+ range, then there might be a difference, but you shouldn't have to worry about that. now since your shit got broken into last time, save up some money and put a nice security system in there too it did have a security system but apparently not enough, im also probable going to bolt the box to the chassis of the car to keep it in for good
  14. Alright looks like 18" is my best bet, what sub manufacturer and series would you guys recommend, also because the cones are heavier will they be able to hold that complex basslines in dubstep?
  15. I would like to go with FI but im open to sugestions as well possible jl for the 12" if id do them
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