pssstgotbags94

Just toss this in here. Even though no one likes my crappy build lol And after the drive all the way to Texas made which was little over and hour and 20 and almost all the way home the trans quit.

Ended up getting 2 kinetik hc2400's and some 0/1 knukonceptz wire. Turns out they fit in the jumpseat location with some cutting and now my alternator is my weakest link since it can't keep all 3 batts charged for anything lol. Here's some pics. And it's messy so be kind, I am trying to make it to a show for the first time and hope to compete or atleast get a number.

I ran 0/1 from alt to battery + and 1 from battery - to factory grounding spot on frame below battery and the another to the factory ground strap from engine block to firewall to the alternator casing. Works great

I've been working and lazy but hoping to get these damn monsters in there this weekend. Should I expect a big increase in the output of my system?

/\ that's pretty much what 2 hc-2400's is going to look like in my little truck lol

Yea I know that. But for a week or 2 it will be fine until I figure out what battery I can get up front. And I'll have a battery tender plugged in at all times when parked to keep everything topped off

Im about to install 2 kinetik hc-2400's in the back of my s10 (inside the jumpseat compartment if they fit) they will be stacked and linked with 1/0 knu koncepts wire. I'm not sure if I should do my 0/1 gauge run to them from the alternator directly or from the front battery. I'll be running the stock alternator and stock type battery in the front until I figure out exactly what alt and what size battery I can fit in the front. I'm running a kicker zx1500.1 powering a single dc level 5 18" sub off stock everything with only big 3 done and I have pretty bad voltage drops. I've also been looking at everyones opinion on battery isolators and seems I don't need one. But I'd like to know for sure. So any help on how I should wire these batts in would be great.

Stock alternator and Walmart battery lol. And the door speakers are crappy no name 6.5's in door and no name 4x6 in dash on head unit with bass turned all the way down. Not sure why they sound so good. Next up will be a better alternator and second battery, then components for doors and better 4x6 plates and 4 channel amp

Thanks man! One more vid

Still have cadence amp? How much shipped to 77356?

No love? Is it that bad? I tried hard lol

Got it put in with a temporary false floor. Sounds way better but can't turn it up yet since it hasn't cured 24hrs. My underpowered amp Who needs a blow through? Lol

Yea, pretty much. I've thrown together shitty sealed boxes for temp use on crappy subs. This is way out there but I'm lucky to have an uncle that's a carpenter with every tool I needed and skills to make everything fit great and not come apart on me. Time will tell if we did it right. Here it is drying on the second coat of rust oleum bed liner that we rolled on

Well it's almost done, still need to bed liner it. Started at 8am. It's now 3:40 pm. It's hot as fuck and I'm exhausted. Here's some pics There we go. It fits. Still have to make a shelf for it to sit on and finish filling holes and sanding and finish letting everything cure before I can see how it sounds. But I think we did a pretty good job for my first box build that wasn't scrap particle board and sealed with no specs in mind lol.

Just wanted to share my build. So far I've got the big 3 upgraded with 0 gauge. Some sound deadening on the floor (which I'll have to do more later but mainly was to quiet the exhaust). Now I'm building a new box to house my 18" DC level 5. 6 cubes tuned to 35 hz. Big thanks to JoeX for the box design. So here's my truck to start. 98 s-10 extended cab, dropped on 3 piece forged 20's. 20x9 front 20x11.5 rear. Debadged, removed moulding and all that fun stuff, added. Custom leather seats and some billet stuff. Onto the pics Both my bitches reppin my favorite saying (fuck bitches, get money) The sub (loudest thing I ever had was a 15" kicker l7 before this). The big 3 wiring Old box that guy gave me with the sub And the start of the new box I'm building off of the blueprints and cut sheet list from JoeX. Well that's where I'm at. I'll have the box done tomorrow and I'll update the build process as I go.

Hey joe, what would I need to do to get down to 33hz? I wanna make sure I can drop low. If I go 32-33hz will it still hit higher notes and be loud? I'm assuming I need to lengthen the port to get lower. I already have my 3 main pieces cut and am getting up early in the am to finish the build. Please let me know if you see this. Thanks

You are the man! Thank you so much for that. I will get it built over the weekend and post my results!

That's exactly what I want except instead of gaining more cubes from going up ( I want to keep it flush with bottom of window) can you make it deeper? I'm willing to sacrifice more leg room. Can you do it like 14"-15" deep? However much you need to get the right air space. You can see how much I have between the current 12.5" depth and my console to work with.

Any help? I'm buying wood tomorrow. I know what I need to build but have no idea about port. I'd like to do an up firing square port but need to know dimensions i need to cut to make it.

Here's the current box And my big 3 wiring And here's the truck performing her main function

Not ready to go permanent like that. This is my first time with anything better than kicker lol. I'd like to just built a nicer box than this pos I'm using now and see what it does with 2 more cubes tuned better. Right now it has 3 cubes and tuned at 40 hz. The box is coming apart and rattles all to hell. It's loud as hell for me and is hard to breath when it's hitting.

right now its the same depth but not as tall or wide as my idea and its sub forward with port firing up. I don't like the round PVC ports. Can't I just do a square port like Steve uses? My problem is I have no idea what to build. And yes it can be bigger but I'm already uncomfortable with the depth its at now due to losing so much leg room. Someone feel free to show me idea's with hopefully a cut list and how exactly to do the port to get the tuning I need. Oh and its just a system for fun. But I may have it put on a Mic and its a 98 2nd gen

I just got a DC level 5 18" sub. Right now its in a shotty box thats way too small and has a piece of 8" pvc pipe for the port that sticks out of the box about 6". Now it's loud as hell but I really want to build a new box with a slot port. Here's the dimensions I have to work with. 44" long x 24" tall x 12.5" deep. I want it tuned to around 32 to 35 hz. I have no idea how to figure out how big to make the port and how long to make it. I used the pinned calculator up top and came up with a 2" wide port thats 22.5" tall and 18" long. Here's a quick drawing using paint (please excuse my horrible paint skills lol). and here's the results of the program I used. I know I didnt get it right. My front plate will be 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF for the sub to mount to.