Amart88

You guys have any tricks or preferences when it comes to Laminating sheets of MDF togeher? Do you laminate it first and then cut out your pieces or cut your pieces first? Also, after you glue and clamp the sheets together, do you use alot of screws to make the bond stonger? Going to be building a box for 2 btls soon just looking for any tricks of the trade or helpful info, Thanks notes, i have a motherload of pl400 subfloor adheisive and 1 1/4" coarse thread drywall screws. (for laminating the mdf)

I have a Hifonics BRZ2100.1D mono amp it says its stable at 1 ohm. I will be wiring it at 1 ohm to a dual 2 ohm fi BTL 15 and I just noticed that the BTL is 1.4 ohms a coil which technically wires down to .7 ohms. Would this amp be able to handle running at .7 ohms in that situation or would ohm rise come into play anyway. I have a 270 amp alt and all 0 gauge with stock batt plus a kinetic hc1400. Thanks. /////////// Yes i know that the BTL can take more power and that I won't get the full 2100rms because of setting amp gains to a clean signal.\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Yes I forgot to mention I do have a second battery kinetic hc1400 hooked up already. I have a 270 amp alt and will be running 2 brz2100.1d's to 2 fi btl 15's. So for better power, I should make separate runs to each amp from my kinetic and fuse each one?

I am planning on running 2 amps in my new setup and I was wondering if I should have 2 separate runs of 0 gauge from the battery to each amp or use a distribution block to save wire? Would it make a difference? Also if I do use a distribution block, will I need 2 more fuses or need to upgrade the fuse amperage on the main line at all? Thanks

Best is relative. Its the cheapest option though. Finding an amplifier that will make 1500 - 2k at 4 ohm is not going to be cheap. And if I'm understanding you correctly, the answer to your question is yes. If its 1500 into one channel, each sub will be getting 750 watts. 1500 / 2. There's this...http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12249_JBL-GTO14001.html . Thanks, thats what ill do, get the mono 1500 at 2 ohms and hook them up in parallel.

Can also be 2 ohms so would 2 ohms be the best option? and also when I"m looking at these amps it says ####watts @ 2 ohm X 1 channel. Does this mean 1500 watts on one channel is split into both subs? because its a mono amp

... is there anyway to wire them to 1 ohm? and is it a mono block amp or a 2 channel?

What would be the best amp for 2 alpine type-r 15's dual 2 ohm. I want a bass knob and it to be somewhat affordable. Each sub is rated for 750w RMS. 0 gauge input would be a bonus too. Thanks

Yes that sounds right but it says not to give these subs anymore than 2.9 cubes each for best performance and right now they are getting. 3 or slightly more I'm am new at this shit so I may be wrong. As long as it bumps good I'll be happy.. I already started on the box with the 38w dimensions so now it's just the port that could make a big difference I will have to agree with ram on this one, regardless of what the specs say the recomended box space and port are there so someone can build it and have some results without it sounding like complete ass. If you want to work with port tuneing try making the port a drop in port so you can tune and remove the port if needed. -Angel Yeah i think its too late i just got back from putting the port on.. I dont know how to make a drop in port anyway.. i heard that external ports work well but again no clue on how to design one. I'm building an external port box as i type. I'll post the pics later on. ok cool

Yes that sounds right but it says not to give these subs anymore than 2.9 cubes each for best performance and right now they are getting. 3 or slightly more I'm am new at this shit so I may be wrong. As long as it bumps good I'll be happy.. I already started on the box with the 38w dimensions so now it's just the port that could make a big difference I will have to agree with ram on this one, regardless of what the specs say the recomended box space and port are there so someone can build it and have some results without it sounding like complete ass. If you want to work with port tuneing try making the port a drop in port so you can tune and remove the port if needed. -Angel Yeah i think its too late i just got back from putting the port on.. I dont know how to make a drop in port anyway.. i heard that external ports work well but again no clue on how to design one.

Yes that sounds right but it says not to give these subs anymore than 2.9 cubes each for best performance and right now they are getting. 3 or slightly more I'm am new at this shit so I may be wrong. As long as it bumps good I'll be happy.. I already started on the box with the 38w dimensions so now it's just the port that could make a big difference

My last post before this one has the tweaked Final dimensions. 38 wide 22.5 deep and 17 tall. 3" diameter port that's 10.05 inch deep. so by what your saying, my port is wrong? if so what should it be now with the dimensions i just gave you and tuned to 33-34 HZ Thanks. PS its a single middle port. one port for 2 subs. New box diams, were looking at 710cu inches of port, 15.5" x 3" 14.64 inches long Plot is a lot smother peeking at 121.4 @ 41.3 hz and port velocity, looking at 18.2 m/s @ 32hz max. Be sure to use a 45 deg. router bit on your port mouth and both sides of the port walls on the inside. with this design you are nominal plus 5.13 db 1w per meter Thank you for you help. So what I have now will work good with the 14.64 inch deep port? Will play lows and music good as a daily driver... not looking for SQ more on the loud side. Oh and the port is not an L port right? it just goes straight back?

My last post before this one has the tweaked Final dimensions. 38 wide 22.5 deep and 17 tall. 3" diameter port that's 10.05 inch deep. so by what your saying, my port is wrong? if so what should it be now with the dimensions i just gave you and tuned to 33-34 HZ Thanks. PS its a single middle port. one port for 2 subs.

Yes but these subs perform best with 2.9 cubes each. Now my box is 6.11 cubes net. and the port depth is just over 10 inches. Seems shallow but its what it says. My final dimesnsions are W-38" H-17" Depth-22.5 . Port diameter 3" Height 15.5" and depth 10.05" at around 33.80ishHZ. Does that sound ok? I already started work on the box but broke my drill bit. Therefore i still didnt get to the port yet so that can always be changed. anymore input is great

I just used torres calculator to make a box for 2 15" type-r's My dimensions are H=17 W=37 and L=22 It is telling me that my port which is 3" in diameter and 15.5" tall (center port) should be 11.7 inches long to get 34.07 HZ tuning. Does this sound right? if so I shouldn't need L ports right? Also I have it set to 2 common port walls. With a net volume of 5.73 sq feet. Any help would be great

Yeah, that's the reason i don't want to remove the stock wire because I do not know whats connected to it as it is 10 gauge from the alt and by the time it gets to the battery its 4 gauge so it definitely splits off somewhere I assume. I got the idea from berlow7 on Youtube, he did the same thing with the same alternator. It looks like he just kept the stock wire and ran multiple 4 gauge runs instead of 0 gauge as his preference. I do not know where the factory fuse is on the stock wire and the 300amp fuse holders i have are only for 0 gauge. I would think 270 amps of current would burn up the stock wire but i could be wrong. I just did not want to cause a fire or blow my computer

Ok, so I can run the stock wire and the 0 gauge to the back and fuse the 0 gauge?

Yeah but it worked before i put the new alt in.

Hello, I am starting a build in a Pontiac pursuit. I just got a 270 amp Ohio gen alternator today. I got the new alt in but now i am kind of lost... I am not a mechanic so with the new one in I plan on running 0 gauge to the battery in the trunk (BIG 3). The question is do do I need a bypass? and what do I do with the stock power wire as its around 10 gauge and runs through the engine compartment and ends up as 4 gauge in the trunk connected to the positive terminal. Do i just leave it disconnected and run the 0 ga or what. There is also a little 2 pin plug that still fits the new alt so thats no problem. Also I just noticed the electric trunk pop wont work now :0. heres some pics. any help would be great