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new guy

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  1. Hey thanks for all the info enveryone definitely food for thought. Firstly, I live in New Zealand and it is very hard to get some of these brands that you guys are talking about without having to pay twice the price just for postage and currency rates, that's pretty much the only reason kicker is appealing. Secondly I have a Ford Courier 1990 XLT so I'm trying to put the sub/s underneath the rear bench seat (going to have to cut it out and weld a frame in there first), this is why the CVT12's were an option because of the shallow mounting. To be honest I just want some solid bass that is definitely noticeable, and i do know that the box used is a big part in that as well. So do you guys reckon kicker subs can pull that off or am I wasting my time with them?

    Cheers everyone :drinks:

    kickers are by no means bad subs. if you can get kickers for a good price where your from then diffidently get them. the only reason most people talk bad about kickers is everyone else does and they are not worth how much you have to pay for them ( well here in the states atleast you can get better subs for a better price) but if you go with kicker you wont be disappointed.

  2. its more then likely the box or amp is clipping.

    edit: just went back and re read and id put my money on clipping.

    Go back and rereread. He tuned it with a dd1. There is no clipping or distortion. My money is on the box.

    you can still clip even if the amp was set with a dd1.

    i bet your friend turned up his bass setting on the hu all the way and the box was made by fosgate and i dont think they would sell a box that was designed so bad it would make the subs too hot to touch in 30 seconds. hell i ran my l7 15 in a shitty prefab 2.2 net box tuned to mid 40s. ive played full tilt for hours on all kinds of music with out it getting 'hot

  3. 1,7 -3.2 are kicker requirements for 12" l7

    Well obviously any noob can go on kickers website and get their "requirements" because if kicker said it it must be true! I'm not saying that their website doesnt say that you can't put their sub in 1.7ft, but from my experience I wouldn't recommend 1.7 or even 2ft for a 12"l7. I'm not saying it can't be done, all I said is that I don't think that is ideal airspace for a 12"l7. That airspace would accommodate a 10" subwoofer much better, or even 3 8's

    this. i had my 15 in 3 cube box and it fucking hated it. i got louder with 2 xplods in a shitty prefab bandpass

  4. trust me bro you will get used to those kickers and be dying for more quick. if i were you id get the 140 you were gonna spend on the 2 cvrs and buy a single 12 from like a DC or SA. trust me a single sa-12 will sound sooo much better and louder then the 2 cvrs. plus you will have more trunk room

  5. If you have the room to do it I would swap them and go with 18h and 25w

    hmm im really confused. maybe thats why this box came out the way it did. im doing it in a trunk car and i want it to be sub back port back and i believe my max dimensions are like 20h 30w 38d. i thought it didnt really matter what was height and what was width

  6. I am kind of confused. Your height is 25 but your width is only 18? What is your sub and port configuration going to be?

    yeah is there something wrong with that? :pardon: lol. the sub and port config will be the same as the one beside the torres box calc in my pic.

    i will be running of a hifonics brz1200d

  7. ok so i just spent the last 2 days building a box just for this damn sub. just for it not to come out wrong. i will seriously send someone 5$ in the mail ( no paypal or id have ray design me one :/) just to make a cut sheet for me and show how its spouse to be put together, because im obviously retarded and somehow messed up while making it. heres the torres calc.l7boxx.jpg

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