GSanders17

I agree no such thing as overkill, especially if you know you are gonna upgrade in the future.

At least you'd be ready for a bigger amplifier when you wanted one. Well thats one way to look at it, lol

The xs power website has a battery finder per your vehicle and wattage use. I would check and see what it recommends but you may want to go alittle more if you intend to beat on the system for awhile.

Another thought that comes to mind is using two strappable amps and get alot of power at 2 ohms. The Sundown SAX-1200D comes to mind. Not really in the price range you have but would be another option.

I believe it's one year, but I could be wrong. Either way that's no issue for me.

I was curious if anyone here can give me any info or advice for taking the MECP advanced test. I currently have the basic certification and plan to move on to the advanced certification later in the year. I guess I'm really curious as to what others experience was with taking the advanced test vs. the basic. I already have the recently updated advanced study guide so I have been been studying it already, but I was curious to things like, are the sample questions at the end of each chapter in the advanced test like it was with the basic test and study guide? Is the advanced test alot more difficult to pass then the basic? Are some of the questions from the basic test incorporated into the advanced test? Any info is appreciated!

They arent that bad, it's just easier to use the second style. The first ones have a lip at the base and it's kind of hard to tell if you got it soldered all the way. And yeah, i use a propane torch and a pair of vice grips since most the time i am by myself when i do this stuff. You mean hand held vice grips? I would burn the hell out of myself if I did that, lol. I'm fortunate to have a table vise to hold the ring terminal for me as I heat it up with the torch.

For what size wire? I can find up to 4 gauge at my local autozone, but for the 0 gauge ones I use I get mine from ebay.

I don't think the ones in the first picture are hard to use, but without a blow torch and solder you may want to stick with a crimp style.

I use stinger products, certainly not the cheapest but there stuff is good. There is cheaper alternatives that are equally as good. As far as ring terminals go I use solid copper lugs, a blow torch and some solder and your in buisness. I don't personally care for crimping ring terminals, especially when I am using 0 gauge wire.

Hey nickers the link is asking for login info. Either way from what she told me she remote starts the vehicle with the alarm armed, she then disarms the alarm and gets in, and for whatever reason doesn't remember to put the key in the ignition so when she hits the brake the remote start shuts down like it is supposed to. She immediately after will then put the key in the ignition and when she goes to crank the vehicle it won't start and the factory security light on the dash will flash and the vehicle won't crank for about ten minutes. With all that said I looked at the install instructions for the bypass module and it says the vehicle is entering a "long tamper mode" which explains why the vehicle won't crank, but I'm trying to figure out the cause. The install instructions say the vehicle enters this mode if the module fails, but how is it failing when it remote starts fine? Another directed document I came across says if the vehicle enters this mode it is almost always because the bcm has received the wrong R code, but again if it goes into "long tamper mode" when using the key that would mean to me the key is sending the wrong R code. Screw you passlock, lol! I also appreciate everyones input!

Ok, I put a crime guard 830i7 and xpresskit pljx bypass on a 2002 saturn vue. The issue I am having is when it is remote started and the key isn't put in it once you hit the brake of course it shuts down the vehicle, but when you put the key in to crank it back up the factory security light flashes and it won't start. this is first time I've dealt with GM's passlock 2 and wonder is this normal if not how do I correct it. This isn't my vehicle so I can't verify all connections until I get it back this weekend.

How much for 1 shipped???? Zip is 28348

I say wall it. You dont see many ricers with walls. Thats why I plan on doing one in my Civic as soon as get it back on the road.

The AQ 2200 is an awesome amp. Im actually going to run 2 of these in my civic once i rebuild it.

I doubt you will blow it with that amp. Just make absolutely sure your not sending it a clipped signal. You also wont be able to run that amp at 1 ohm since you ordered a dual 1 ohm sub. It will have to run at 2 ohms or .5 ohms.

Thanks abunch! I actually have a few 451m laying around that I acquired from my days at Best Buy.

Ok so I need to put a keyless entry/ remote starter on a 1998 Dodge Ram and the guy doesnt know if it came with factory keyless entry or not. I have a disc at home from 12 volt resource that says the truck has reverse polarity door locks and needs 2 relays to work plus the factory lock and unlock wires should be cut in half. Directechs has a diagram that shows only the unlock wire needs to be cut in half and not the lock wire and then use the 2 relays. Which is right? Anybody have experience with this truck that knows for sure?

I would check with a DMM at the amp terminals for proper power and check all the fuses at the amp too if power is at the terminals.

Thats very nice. Ive always wanted a Mini Cooper of some sort, just never got one.

Did you set the gains or did a shop?

That is a parallel circuit and was a 2 ohm load like they told you.

sure am. is it a mask thingy? It sure is. Those fumes from fiberglass resign are pretty strong. I even wear a respirator when cutting MDF, but I have bad allergies. Most people I know just wear a simple particle mask when cutting MDF. I figure you never can be too safe, especially seeing my step dad suffer from COPD!

Are you asking what one is?

I would invest in a respirator too if your going to do fiberglass.