[2 kicker L7 15s aero port]

On 5/14/2024 at 7:57 PM, Jeremy134322 said:

I’ve looked around tons of websites and port calculators etc. I either get a really short Aeroport and then the sq inches of port per cube don’t add up to me. I’m looking to tune 32-35hz. My box is currently sealed and about 9.7 cubes after subs. I have 2 L7 15s and they’re firing up in my extended cab truck with 1/0 power/ground with 10guage speaker wire running off a hifonics Zeus 3200.1 

I’m just curious if I need 2 6” ports at 16” length or what my brain is fried 

 

Do a slot port with 100 sqin of port area, 9 net volume.

[USED SMD DD-1 Distortion Detector]

From many places, here is one:

 

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-61378-SMD-DD-1-Distortion-Detector-Analyzer.html

[Budget friendly head unit]

With a small scope you could compare the 0 dB tone with the tracks you have, might explain what you are experiencing.

[Loading/Pocket Interaction Question - DC Audio XL Elite in Center Console Box]

On 5/14/2024 at 4:24 PM, Cashdollar2009 said:

This is for a 12" DC Audio Elite XL.

 

I believe I have about 14" from port exit to the rear seats.

 

This is going in a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500.

 

Your box seems to be dual 0.75 layer all around except for the bottom, how can your box width be 14 and your port width be 12.5?

[What kind of box is needed for two Kicx GX12s?]

I am talking about a sealed sub enclosure which is completely closed and air cannot go in or out of the enclosure:

 

 

Your sub seems optimized to work in a sealed enclosure however it may be possible to use in ported, the advantage with ported is that is much louder for the same power as a sealed would be.

 

[My merc custom setup build evl12s flat pack box]

You got it working so that's nice, you need to properly install your amp though, it might get damaged like that, otherwise looks good, it's playing pretty loud from what can bee seen.

[What kind of box is needed for two Kicx GX12s?]

The sub parameters make it ideally suited for sealed, nonetheless it looks like it would work in ported but they offer no Xmax parameter so I can only speculate.

[Center port design]

I came up with a shared port design which is approximately what you intended to do in size and performance. Subs up in trunk cars is not recommended due to heavy trunk lid rattling, if you choose to do the subs up just do the cutouts in the top wall instead.

 

The other thing to comment is that many european vehicles have almost air tight trunks, that would result in reduced performance, if removing your rear seats results in you being able to see the trunk, you are ok but if you see just metal, it can be a problem.

[Center port design]

So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide:

 

NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.

 

NOTE: for increased performance subs and port should be firing rearwards.

 

 

 

 

[(d2) or (d4)? Sa-12's]

On 4/23/2024 at 12:46 PM, Mikefenzel92 said:

Can i change my d4 sundown sav2 to a d1 and be ok?

 

It comes down to the minimum stable impedance your amp support, for a D1 wired in parallel you would need a 0.5 ohm stable amp.

[Resonant Frequency Tahoe 2 door 1997]

For RF you can go with a larger net volume than suggested and tuning should be within 30-35Hz, subs up / port back for your type of vehicle, something like in the figure below:

 

[Center port design]

The port in the middle (shared port) adds displacement because there are two non common walls instead of one of the side port design. Besides you don't say what skar subs or power or vehicle you are running which are also important in deciding a design.

[Center Slot ported box for 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4's, tuned for everything from rap to country...35hz???]

That is superb work sir, it reminds me of how this forum was back in it's heyday. If anything I would remove some of the damping material close to the port inner ends as it may affect performance and tuning somewhat, something like 2-3 inches each side.

[Budget friendly head unit]

Most head units clip a bit but you set your amplifier gains so that you get all the output of your system before you reach the volume level at which the head unit clips.

 

While learning to setup your system gains properly (with a DD-1 or a cheap little scope) is what you likely need, it wouldn't hurt to get a modern head unit with a better DAC and higher line level outputs voltage, your really old head unit has only 2 Volt, you can get a 4 volt head unit just by not going for the cheapest bottom of the line head unit and those will still be reasonably inexpensive.

[Resonant Frequency Tahoe 2 door 1997]

There is a thread for that:

 

Say it should be around 40 Hz but if your box is for music and not burps, you don't want to tune close to resonance, it will likely make your system pretty bad. Your subs are for daily not competition.

 

 

[28-80Hz Issue]

Your box probably is hitting the car resonant frequency and may be oversized to show muddiness and showing a sharp drop at higher bass.

 

It is interesting that you provide no box specs, you see it doesn't matter much that the enclosure sound normal in another car.

 

Also don't see what is your system, models for the speakers, amps etc.

 

You provide no pictures to document your tests, etc.

 

Even if you have an acoustics problem, there should be a way to work around the issues even if that means try different components, etc.

[08 acura rl custom box help needed.]

You can easily run kicker 12s which like 2.25-2.5 cubic feet each, You likely don't have 8 cubic feet net, most trunk cars don't have that much.

 

There are some 15s that will run in lesser airspace. like DC Audio brand which will need 3 cubic feet each but very few 15 subs will run great below that.

 

When you have space limitations you alternative is more power and subs that can handle the power to get loud in smaller boxes, there are subs that can handle many thousands of watts of power each.

[Center Slot ported box for 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4's, tuned for everything from rap to country...35hz???]

Here is a box made to be similar to the one you linked but a bit better for the lows and the cutsheet can be completed just with a table saw and a jigsaw, no need for router:

 

Power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4", figure is just an assembly guide:

 

 

 

 

[08 acura rl custom box help needed.]

Those are  specified to work in 3 to 5 cubic feet net INTERNAL each, say, we pick 4 cubes for each as kicker subs prefer larger boxes and you would need 8 net, you don't have that.

 

You are calculating external volume, net internal volume is the airspace inside the box, the space occupied by the sub, the port and the wood doesn't count.

 

You will only be able to properly fit 1 sub of those. but it would be louder to use 2 12s that would need 4 to 5 cubic feet net internal that you should have.

[speaker popping caused by RCA?? HELPP]

It could be bad RCA terminals (either end) or the amp itself, very possible if you installed the amp in the sub box. You need also to check your power lines and your turn on signal as well. And also the sub to amp lines at both ends, it could be even the sub. Test everything and see what you find.

[Center Slot ported box for 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4's, tuned for everything from rap to country...35hz???]

1) Yes you have to account for the displacement of 45s but in most cases this displacement is very low.

 

2) If you add damping to the interior of a ported box it results in a reduction of output around tuning, it also can reduce port noise in a misdesigned enclosure, it is beneficial for flatness but it will reduce output and therefore usually is not used.

 

I will look into the modeling of the P3s however it would be necessary for me to know what amp are you using.

 

 

 

[Center Slot ported box for 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4's, tuned for everything from rap to country...35hz???]

The best way to get flat response is what you did, run an array of high diameter subs in sealed if you don't mind the larger box.

 

To me two standard 12s in a large vehicle cabin is insufficient but if you have to work with them then the box is the way to get them going lower by tuning low with proper port area and going with the maximum allowable internal volume.

 

Once the box has the ability to play low you can use a DSP to try to even things out if needed, and hopefully you will like the outcome.

[18 in a trunk car?]

Depends on what 18 and the maximum dimensions of the trunk. (h,w,d)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

89

[Help with a sub box]

You can use a 1500W RMS amp no worries, just no clipping, subsonic set to 28Hz, careful with bass boost and other tone controls after setting gains. 

[Help with a sub box]

So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide:

 

NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit before building the real box.

 

NOTE: Box can still be used with better subs for a future upgrade.