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Joe X

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Everything posted by Joe X

  1. Ported enclosures are louder for the watt than sealed enclosures like you have, so I guess your question is if there is something in between the large ported boxes and a sealed, so I came up with a smaller ported box for your sub that still let you experience most of the benefits of ported designs while not being as bulky. If size is suitable and you have a trunk car you can build or have someone build the following:
  2. Two 8" ports or a big slot port should be able to handle your 2x3500w amps.
  3. Not everyone believes in plots but the conclusion is pretty obvious: The following is for an 8 cube net box tuned to 32Hz, orange is 100 square inches of port area, yellow is a single 8" port, power shown is per driver: As you can see the yellow plot becomes darker at about 35 m/s meaning that port noise can occur, it's crazy out of range at tuning. The next plot below tells you how much power you can run without issues on a single 8: port and as you can see at 1000W per driver or 2000W total is the most you can run and the 8" port will function properly.
  4. Every vehicle is different but firing forward doesn't necessarily mean you lose output, I mean walls and blowthroughs do exactly that, If I had to work with aeros I would do one 8" each side facing up (away from the center window), subs facing forward BUT you know there's always the guy that owns the exact same truck and is a successful competitor from whom you can get the best possible advise.
  5. In those vehicles usually you do subs up or forward, port(s) up or sideways, really depending on the size and the form factor of the box. In some cases firing up results in rear window rattling so firing elsewhere saves you from dealing with that rattling.
  6. Flared aeros are superior to similar sized slot ports BUT in your case you are using two and using two is less efficient than one, then there's the port area, two 8" aeros have about 100 square inches of port area out of the 130 or so needed. This is why it's not as easy to predict an easy win for aeros in your case.
  7. Based on the space you gave last time you would need a 12" port to reach the port area needed, imagine the size of the flare if it was available. You could try using two 8" professionally flared ports, it would be tight airspeed wise but it could work, subs forward ports up.
  8. That's a flimsy box, consider fixing that before anything else, Sundown's box suggestion in their website is 6.83 cubes @ 32Hz with 93.5 square inches of port area. If using round ports I would pick a couple of 7" PVC pipe ports that are 22.2 long each to tune to 32 Hz. 7" PVC pipe is not as common as 6" but it's still available.
  9. It seems the following is what's left of that company: https://www.facebook.com/PURECARAUDIO/ If you can't contact them what's left for you is measuring t/s parameters by simple methods, even if you can't get Xmax that way. But you still can get enough data to get box specs to build.
  10. In any 4,6 bandpass the rear chamber controls the low frequency response while the front chamber control the high end of the passband so those tunings seem in the wrong order. If you were doing a series tuned BP6, specs [email protected], [email protected] then that 12x24 front chamber port would be more than enough for those 3 subs on 7500W RMS.
  11. If you can't find the impedance of the coils in the sub, they can be measured with a multimeter, it's a very inexpensive device, like $10-$15 USD, here's how to do it: As for what amp to buy, I checked your country and many mainstream brands are available, decent quality mainstream brands you can find can be Kicker, Alpine, MB Quart, you are looking for a single channel bass amplifier which are sometimes called monoblock BUT I can't tell you which one exactly until you can provide those measurements or you can find the information printed in the sub somewhere. You see the wrong amp or an incorrectly connected amp can damage your sub.
  12. Ok so find in the sub itself the impedance of the coils, it must say somewhere 2 ohm or 4 ohm or D2 or D4. Also where are you located, because most brands cannot be found anywhere in the world.
  13. That's 96 Square inches of port per driver, the problem is that you are not telling what kind of design you are doing? 4th order, 6th order? How much actual power is going into the subs?
  14. Say you have a 2 channel amp that you can bridge to a single channel and in bridged mode the amp is stable at 4 ohm. Say you have one subwoofer that is 2 ohm per coil, then you connect the coils in series so that it matches the 4 ohm output of the amp. Then you connect the sub to the amp like this: This is just an example and your sub amp may need to be connected differently, an incorrect connection may damage your sub and/or amp. Your sub should have printed how many ohms is each coil, typically for cheap subs you get 2 ohm per coil or 4 ohm per coil. Also post the model of the amp. When you connect your sub to your amp correctly you get more output and a much louder system.
  15. First: What are your vehicle and amp models? As for your question I would definitely go for common chamber, theoretically is the same but in reality no one builds enclosures so perfect, so each side is slightly different from the other and that does not help.
  16. 400W is going to be total, subs are rated that way, that usually means about 200W RMS but with a cheap sub maybe it's less than that, and a 2" coil is rather small too. Where you could be losing big is if you are sourcing a stereo signal to the amp and then connecting each coil of the sub to one of the channels of the amp, you don't run subs like that. If your amp can be bridged to one channel you should use that function to drive the sub.
  17. Here are some opinions: Get a separate amp for your sub, this has many many advantages, the only advantage of using a single multichannel amp is when you want your install as simple as possible but otherwise not recommended. As for the subs, there are many subs, you need to define your application and define your available space, your application can be for example, sound quality, low( like if you like rap and such music), loud, etc, space is also important, some subs like big boxes some can work in smaller boxes, some will work best in ported boxes and some in sealed. The only general advise when it comes to subs is do not get cheap $150 or so subs, those usually are good at nothing.
  18. The NSv5 12 is the one to pick from those two but windy on a single 12 sub? pretty difficult, you want to pick the bigger subs 15s, 18s and vehicles with a smaller cabin.
  19. You can set the dimensions of your design to dimensions you can work with even if your volume and other box specs go slightly off, your parts should assemble perfectly or your box will not be structurally sound and air leaks may develop.
  20. You can also lift up your backseats, there are hardware kits for that. Then you can build yourself a larger box.
  21. Assuming you don't want to lose any seats, you can do a number of things like this: Or do a backseats lift and see what options open up. Ideally you can lose one seat or delete the backseats altogether and install anything you want. In any case I do agree with you, some 6" drivers are not going to do it for someone used to large subs.
  22. The use of bass restoration has nothing to do with the tuning of your box. Said that, it would make no sense to add bass restoration and then tune to 50Hz. If you are going to get kick drums to play nice or not is a question of enclosure design, driver selection and such, more specifically you want to keep your group delay low, sealed enclosures will play best that "fast bass" but properly designed ported boxes can too just need more attention to perform as expected and lots of experimentation and sometimes using sound quality drivers. Again nothing to do with bass restoration.
  23. I would recommend you the shared port design:
  24. If you are using a stock head unit you will usually need bass restoration, that will be the main reason, this is independent of your box specs, manufacturer recommended specs for your subs are: Box Recommendations: Sealed: 0.5 cu ft Ported: 1.0 cu ft Displacement: 0.11 ft^3 Cutout Diameter: 8-7/8" Outside Diameter: 10" Depth: 5 5/8" Recommended Tuning: 32hz Recommended Port Area: 16 in^2 If you want to play all kinds of music keep your tuning in the low 30s but remember, net volume and port area are just as important, smaller than recommended boxes will lack deeper bass. if you need some help creating your box let me know. You can also check the sundown website for box plans.
  25. So what vehicle is it? What I can tell you is that the internal space you are giving is insufficient for the driver in question, calculating the internal box space of a tline tuned to 33Hz and using your sub Sd (cone effective surface area) we get: SS = 1125.328 feet/s = 13503.937 in/s SD = 448 sqcm = 69.4401 sqin 33Hz tuning. 13503.937/33 x 4 = 132 inches 69.4401 x 132 = 9166.0932 cuin = 5.3044 cuft (internal volume of tline for your sub) The internal? dimensions you provide: 7.5 x 21 x 42.5 = 6693.75 cuin = 3.87 cuft (volume of internal dimensions you provide) As you can see your space is far smaller. In both cases the external dimensions of the boxes will represent a larger volume. If you can live with the box size I will tell you about modeling and layout.
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