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Joe X

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Everything posted by Joe X

  1. A sub can start losing sound quality as it reaches it's mechanical limits, but reaching mechanical limits not only depends on power but also on box size, box type, frequency being played and other factors. Saying that just reaching some specific watts will degrade sound quality of a sub is a ridiculous claim.
  2. It's less expensive overall to do less subs of greater cone area, not only save by number of subs to buy but also save in amps and specially on electrical, Also I would avoid the $15o stuff at all costs unless you know extremely well what you are getting.
  3. With that type of layout I can confirm it works well with a height just below the headrest, box located passenger side, anything taller you will have to try yourself. Your alternative could be doing a different better 15 sub to avoid having such gigantic box. It's always good to talk to many people and stay open to other ideas so that you end up with the right setup.
  4. The aim is not to upset he roof, the answer is as far as you can, or as close as you have tested not to cause flex,BTW port area needs to be at least 75 square inches, software is bassbox.
  5. So this is what happens, 15 onyx in yellow, 18 platinum in orange, boxes 4 and 6 cubic feet net each both tuned to 32Hz: You see that 15 almost matching the 18 but just at tuning, the 18 more musical, and likely able to go to 7 net. Bear in mind that if 28 is for height, that's tall and close to the roof. So stronger motor can get close but cone area is better overall.
  6. Get your measurements and then I try to answer the question with more data in.
  7. You will need 5-6 cubic feet net for the 18 and the sub not to be close to the roof for it to work well, if you can comfortably do that then I could model to compare both subs in their optimal boxes and see what I get but in a large enough box the 18" likely will be louder due to greater cone area, go get some measurements, if you have to do the 18" in a tight 4 cubic feet better go for the 15", it will work best in 4 cubic feet net.
  8. What will be the vehicle and amp models?
  9. For modeling I can recommend you bassbox pro, it's specifically designed with car audio in mind and it's easy to use, it's the very best you can get for the price, it even has a lite version that loses al lot of functionality but is like $65, it still gets some basic jobs done.
  10. 1) OK so the turning port is made with a PVC elbow, pretty simple, no need to bend yourself or anything like that: https://canplas.com/plumbing/product_category/pvc-elbows/ 2) yes you can try the bass restoration of the LOC but best is a proven full range signal, I would recommend to make sure this issue is fully resolved before starting to fix stuff elsewhere. 3) on that method, I would recommend using t/s parameters and modeling software to determine your port area, those calculators you find around are not based in physics and likely are a hit and miss, same goes for the 12-16 rule and I would only recommend those methods when no parameters for the sub are available and you don't have tools to obtain them. Torres miscalculates port displacement, typically the predicted tuning is off by 1-2Hz, Torres is only fully accurate when you use a single round port and some non turning slot ports. Still if you don't cane about the 1-2 Hz remains a useful tool. Lastly the way your box is made you can not calculate tuning correctly since it has two different port areas, the port area is much taller in the slanted section.
  11. Big 3 can be installed regardless of the alternator you have, the box specs you need for your subs are around 3.5 cubic feet net tuned 32-35Hz with port area of around 55 square inches subs up / port back. Something like this: https://www.gatelyaudio.com/collections/sub-boxes/products/2-x-12-configuration-3-5cf Is just that is too expensive for most people, best way is building your own for way less. The enclosure you show is rather tight.
  12. You should install a cheap voltmeter across the terminals of your amp and make sure you are always above 12.5V as is needed by those taramps, even sudden dips may be bad for the amp, if over days you see low voltage that means you may need an alternator upgrade, if you don't have a big 3 upgrade do that one right now. On the box without full measurements I can't tell you if it needs to be changed, it's just that it looks rather bad.
  13. It looks like you have low port area and a high port area ratio, that's likely killing some of your output, BUT without all the dimensions of the box and port I wouldn't know how serious is your problem is.
  14. To be honest it's still not clear what your problem is, I am pretty sure the front speakers are high passed too, they usually are, other things that can kill your low end and/or overall output are: Subsonic filter set too high. Bad box placement, you can try to move around the box and change sub aimings and see what it does. you can phase invert both of your subs, it can be a big deal in some installs. If your factory stereo is not a good full range source you can test connect dirctly to your amps a different source, bypassing completely the factory head unit.
  15. This is is how the round port easily fits, slight increase in net volume may help gain low end:
  16. Two 12s in such large vehicle are not going to be that impressive to start with. Try two vxf 15s instead. Sure enough your sub enclosure may not be the best but you should post the design to see if something is wrong and then list the whole system and how is setup as well.
  17. Missed something, rear speakers from where you are getting signal likely are high passed, very likely not a full range signal. With a tone generator and the cheap scope you can determine if the rear speakers signals are high passed or not.
  18. That port is inefficient no question but how did you come up with the 80 m/s value?
  19. Pics of your situation? System specs?
  20. So here's some feedback: First thing is checking that both subs are connected correctly to the amp so the subs are not playing out of phase. Second, torres can't calculate the correct port displacement for that box and you missed driver displacements, how you figured the port center line, port area is not constant. Third your box just needed a single 6" round port to have the same port area and would be way easier to build. Beyond that you don't mention what amp and vehicle models you use, how's your electrical, head unit, how you setup gains and everything else.
  21. You have sketchup, just draw the center line that is 26 long and then it becomes obvious the length of the L2 part.
  22. The port length is measured along the center line, not adding the port walls lengths. Your port 2 part needs to be like 4" so that the center line length is 26.
  23. Hi severancej I was trying to find in my records the box you say I did for you a while back, care to let me know how I placed the subs and port in that box? Helps me figure out what should I recommend you here.
  24. If so you can phase invert the signal to the subs, some amps have controls to do this directly.
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