Jump to content

Joe X

Members
  • Posts

    9975
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    75

Everything posted by Joe X

  1. Those are entry level subs and will work on a single 6" port, flared if possible. Better than two 4"s which combined port area is less than one 6".
  2. The reduction of the cabin size is probably the most important feature of a wall as it results in an increased cabin gain, that's also why you seal off, you want all that pressure in the cabin.
  3. If your subs are D1 what you should do is get a single monoblock about 3000-4000 W RMS and wire the subs to one ohm and you will make the most of them. Installation will be just as easy. Also very important is the box design that needs to be custom to your subs and vehicle, your subs enclosure can make or break your bass experience and is harder to get right than an amp.
  4. Sure many people have been succesful with those TARAMPS, still there are widespread reports of failures like yours, maybe they have sold too many but I think in the name of saving money they cut cormers, like the infamous loose coils with loose windings that never get fully fixed. I am not recommending that brand to anyone until they mature their manufacturing and design, if it ever happens, I am pretty sure the Brazilian government couldn't care less about the quality what they are selling.
  5. Air tight vehicle, seats fold down subs / port firing forward, trunk sealed off, Amp RMS well above of subs RMS on brutal electrical, TUNE LOW, ported boxes lose hairtrick abilities just below tuning, no compromise on subs, maximum Xmax and cone area as possible, trying to save money can hurt you bad on that goal so if you do make sure you know you can. Contact people with systems that have delivered what you are looking for and do not ignore any of their advise.
  6. You could try to use the OM-1 on the mids with the sub amp or try the OM-1 on the sub with the mids amp and see if there are any differences,
  7. You treated OM-1 manual like it wasn't there, you will need to have a mini screwdriver available for the next step.
  8. You don't need those "bridging" wires, the terminals in the amp already have those connections made inside. Those two set of speaker terminals are one and the same because it's a monoblock. Bridging a monoblock involves a second amplifier.
  9. If it there are no issues for a week you can blame the taramps, the turn on pop should be no issue and it can be fixed with a turn on delay circuit but I would focus on getting another 8k amp. I would prefer a refund from Taramps rather than a replacement. Having a third time failure would be sickening to me.
  10. I bet seats down in a trunk car is louder than seats up but never believe me or anyone else try it both ways yourself What definitely can make you louder is firing forward and sealing off the trunk but effectively sealing off the trunk is a difficult job.
  11. The easier tool to use and understand is the SMD DD-1 which you can get here: https://wccaraudio.com/smd-distortion-detector-dd-1/ The portable scope can be less expensive but you need much more knowledge to use it so in your situation I would recommend the DD-1 mentioned above. Still I can provide a link to a portable scope if you want.
  12. DS440X4 has an input sensitivity 250mV to 4v depending on how the gain knob is set, don't know if you tried to change that or not. Taramps knobs are known not to work as specified anyways.
  13. Tu setup the amps gains for optimal output you want to get a SMD DD-1 or a portable scope both easily available, get whichever tool you feel more comfortable with.
  14. The port area you are planning on is too large and that is the reason you are getting such a long port, you need 4 to 4.5 square inches of port area per sub, WinISD should be able to show low port speed, tuning needs to be lower subs cover 20-55Hz range in most systems, for these small subs, you should tune 38-40Hz but not higher.
  15. That enclosure looks pretty, not sure if that many round ports is going to be efficient or not. Regarding the amps, you are OK running each sub at 2 ohm, each sub should be getting close to 2000W. The setup of the amps is critical because the box is a common chamber type so you amps need to be GAIN MATCHED for best performance in addition to the normal gain settings procedure which needs to be done with a DD-1 or a scope, make sure you got that right. Also you should have enough electrical for 4-5K power, batteries, alternator, big 3, you don't specify what is your electrical. Lastly the cap seems to be a little one, probably is not going to make a big difference fi you use it.
  16. If the head unit is playing the radio you might get unexpected behavior from the DD-1, play the tones provided and see what it does. Try to listen in what you are sending to the dd-1 to see if there is noise or whatever.
  17. You could try Deoxit D5.

  18. It's like two different enclosures sharing the port, since the port is being shared it needs a port area 4 times as large as 1 sub would need. So if 1 sub needs 4.5 square inches, the shared port enclosure would need 18 square inches. Since the chambers are not shared each chamber is twice the volume as one sub would need.
  19. Just install some other amp now that you have checked your system, if that amp works fine for a few days return the taramps for a refund.
  20. Yes, also opening up your rear deck and also your box should leave space on top or sides to help sound pressure come inside the car cabin.
  21. Subs up in a trunk car leads to excessive , hard to control rattling, port through the ski hole leads to you listening mostly the port. For your vehicle, posts / subs back and opening up the rear deck should be best, still your own tests will tell you what you prefer.
  22. False claim REW has no place in box modeling or layout at all, is strictly for measuring real world data.
  23. Those big boss amps are supposed to have many protection systems in place, hard to believe that something is fooling them all, likely it blew on it's own. Try testing with some other amp to be sure everything else in your system is as supposed to be. I have read about a couple of cases where the third amp actually worked, I wouldn't put my self through that though.
  24. have you measured with a multimeter the final resistance at the amp speaker terminals? What does it read? also, Do you have a voltage gauge connected at the amp power input terminals? What does it read with the engine turned on? Your readings should be 0.7-0.9 ohms for the first test and 13-15V for the second test.
  25. You have 3K worth of amplifier and 6K worth of woofers, as a permanent solution I would suggest a single 6K half bridge amp. There is a user on here that recently got one those big boss, he had good electrical and yet the amp had to be returned due to a fault just days after installation, not a rare occurrence. If you want luck with those full bridge amps run strictly within 12.5-15V (as measured at the amp power terminals) not for a millisecond above or below that, run loads 1 ohm or above. Don't place the amp where there is significant vibration and/or bad ventilation.
×
×
  • Create New...