Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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Best thing you can do is transfer youir CD to USB in a PC or:
Check out this thread:
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Just going by the subs manual for each subs you need 121 liters and 41,2 square inches of port area tuned to 30Hz
So the box need to be 242 liters net and 82.4 square inches of port area at the same tuning.
So how you get 82.4 square inches with 6" round ports, one 6" round port is 28.2 square inches and 3 are 84.2 almost exactly what is needed so:
3 6" round ports is what is needed according to manufacturer specs based in a 242 liters box and rated power.
Since you are overpowering you probably need more port area but at least you do need 3.
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You need to open the box (say remove the sub) and connect the DD-1 to the amp output terminals, no other way.
You can instead get a box without an integrated amp and then buy a mini amp such as this:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-43424-Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-PBR300X2.html
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It comes down to the speakers you have purchased
If you can list the models of your head unit and the speakers, tweeters, subs that you have purchased it will be easier for me to answer specifically.
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The 3 way mode lets you have a fully active front stage, no rear fill and a sub channel and for that you need a 4 channel amp and a sub amp. Likely you use that mode for a sound quality application.
Or you can choose two front channels, two rear channels and a sub channel to have the functions you like, you also need 4 channel amp and a sub amp.
In the rare case you wanted a fully active front stage and a fully active rear fill you would need a couple of active 2 channel crossovers OR a multichannel DSP and two 4 channel amplifiers and a sub amp, you can use all the functions of your head unit and stay fully active BUT that is a lot of equipment to install. I don't know anyone running their system this way but it's possible.
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Who knows but the Taramp Smart Bass 8k is a constant power amp with flexible load options which the others don't have.
As you know all those full bridge amplifiers like extremely solid electrical that provides 12.5-15V at all times, if you don't intend to have that better choose a half bridge alternative.
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The subsonic (high pass) is generally 4th order not 2nd order filter in most amps so it will need to be set higher to better control excursion, also, WinISD doesn't account for cabin gain so your frequency response just show how the box will play outdoors. But you can still compare your plot with a 4.75 net box tuned to 29Hz (the prefab) to see how much are you expected to gain, that actually is useful information you might be interested in.
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There is a 6+ dB gain from doubling power and cone area, There is a 3 dB gain from using professional round ports (around tuning). Those can be dramatic gains as long as you can make it all work as it should.
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With that sub the DC resistance is given per coil and BL is given for coils wired in parallel so Re = 1.6 ohm.
What is more serious is that they don't provide Xmax which limits your ability to predict maximum power for your situation and where to set your subsonic filter.
The parameters you are going to use are the only ones you need to have, the others are not necessary, manufacturers usually will give parameters measured with coils wired in series, if you need to wire in parallel you need to divide Re/4 and recalculate BL through the program, you will get a lower BL value.
If you need to measure parameters bear in mind that new subs need to be broken in before any measurements take place or the parameters you get are no good for box designing.
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here are the two basic types of 6th order bandpass enclosures:
Parallel tuned:
Series tuned:
As you can see with bandpass enclosures you can never see the drivers from the outside.
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Sure you can do that for some moderate improvement, larger improvements involve greater cone area like for example doing 2 15s, if doing a larger than recommended box and tuning higher requires you setting up your subsonic filter higher to prevent sub bottoming out.
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Depens on what you mean by "together" but if I imagine right you would have a parallel tuned 6th order bandpass, still that would be useless because in such enclosures the chamber sizes are of different sizes, port area and port tuning of each port are vastly different, in other words that wouldn't work at all.
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That looks all wrong, check out this thread to learn to use it:
Those enclosures are top slanted, look for a commercial design made for your vehicle and try to see how it is done, generally subs forward / port sideways, these boxes are hard to build try to find a prefab for your vehicle that has the right specs but not as expensive as the one from that guy.
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Find the volume level at which your head unit clips and never use at that level, the hard part is going to be finding clipping at the output of the amp since it is inside the box to set your gain properly, you would need to open the box and setup the amp gain that way, very impractical.
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i am going to guess you have the ZVX 18v2, the prefab box is almost the size of the suggested box, only the port area is a little low on the prefab but not low enough to be of concern if you are just playing music, here is the difference between prefab (yellow plot) and the suggested spec (red plot) in frequency response:
Recommended : use the box sub / port up reverse mounting the sub to see any improvement in performance, Prefab with low port area but performance hit to rated power seems low, only marginal improvements from a rebuild to recommended specs.
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You are running 1300W of power in your audio, no need for any other electrical upgrades if just playing music, No need to be checking your voltage unless something in your car is not working properly, the amps will work just fine in the 12-14V range no problem.
If you are just curious as to why the voltage is being regulated the way it does, just have your electrical checked and then ask your concerns, to me, if your car works fine and your audio works fine I would just leave it alone.
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A D2 sub can only be wired to 4 or 1 ohm so my suggestion is to get an amp that is one ohm stable delivering at least 1200W RMS such as:
Also when running more than 1kw of power is necessary to check your electrical to be able to support the load and if so check that it is in good condition, more so if you intend to run full bridge amps such as these NVX.
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Like this is better:
Unhappily too busy these days talk to you later on.
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It's a matter of trying if that's even possible, but the ones that come with the kit will be optimized.
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Well, good call, that fully solves the issue, hope you didn't pay retail price for that amp though as it seems rather expensive for the power delivered.
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I lean on building a 10 x Vas box and boot for optimal sub protection but anyways try that out if you want and see how that goes.
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The amp will push 600W to one sub at 4 ohm, you can't really do anything about it. But being such a large vehicle I would run both of them and over time upgrade the amp.
Said that the sub loudness at 600W as compared to 850W will be about 2dB or less so not much of a difference, just build a large efficient box for it if not changing the amp or the sub.
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Not too big of a deal, just cover the hole with some MDF from the inside BUT if the box is a shared port design add an identical piece of MDF in the other chamber to keep volumes identical.
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Your D2 subwoofers can be wired to 2 ohm coils in series subs in parallel so no problem there, is just that the amp is 900W and the subs together can take 1900W easily so not getting all the subs can offer with that amp, you will be getting like 3 dB less than possible (not too much). To compensate build a large,efficient enclosure to get more out of them.
need help designing enclosure
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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You can do 12s if you want and be much louder for the same power, as for the Rockford fosgate brand they are good but they are on the expensive side you can go for these instead in the 12 size:
https://stereointegrity.com/product/sql-series/
Anyways if you don't care for any of the above a 2x10s box is very doable on your max dimensions
Pick an amp that matches or exceeds the subs power handling. just avoid full bridge amplifiers unless you plan for electrical upgrades.