Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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So here is a second suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide:
NOTE: Tuning down to 34Hz and F3 of 26Hz, will be adequate for low tuned, music, net volume up to 4 cubic feet.
NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
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On 1/23/2023 at 4:09 PM, brazilanlittlebass said:
@Joe X So, in reality, I like rebassed-style music, with this frequency that I chose between 38 and 40 hz, will it not be possible to play music at approximately 30 hz, play it loud? because I believe that this speaker will not last a long time playing at 25hz. I wanted something like rap but with sound pressure, or is this system I have not ideal for doing it? I redid the measurements in my car and managed to reach the following measurements: Length 88 cm, height 47 cm and width 45 cm, this is the maximum, even putting the back seat forward because of the battery. Do you think it's possible to play low and strong with this setup? I appreciate it if you can give me the links on the content, thanks a lot buddy
I take note of your new maximum dimensions but I would like to know brand and model of your sub, amp, head unit, other components you may have like equalizer, DSP or any other device you may have.
Also how is your electrical spec, battery, alternator, wiring, etc.
Also check this video on what is cliipping and why you need to avoid it, it's meant to be short and simple, I will post other links later:
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Box wise you do a larger internal volume to get more output with less power, in your case going to 4 cubic feet net should be doable but I already made the box as big as your available space allows. Tuning should be as low as the music you play needs but not lower, I think if you generally do not play low tuned music like rap you are better off with the higher tuning you chose.
To avoid damage to your sub you should be aware of clipping, specially with modern full bridge amplifiers which if not used properly can clip very easily. Clipping is one sure way to destroy a sub. If you are not familiar with this let me know let me know and I will post you some links so that you know how to avoid it.
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Here are the plots for the above box for the D4 version of the sub:
Projected in-car frequency response:
Cone displacement:
Vent airspeed:
Should sound pretty good but since you asked for higher tuning your -3db half power frequency is about 31 Hz, so not too great for low tuned stuff like rap.
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So here is a suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide:
NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
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It feels surrealistic to read that you want dual alternators and 4800 Watt RMS worth of amplifiers to drive four 300 watt subwoofers.
Am I missing something?
If those subs were Sundown X v3 then it would barely make sense.
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1 hour ago, Grushus84 said:
2 vs 3 ??
Double vs triple.
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On 2/23/2022 at 5:15 PM, GixsirJB1k said:
Joe X I appreciate the none help you have me rather then just putting your 2 cents in and be helpful rather then bash me I'd appreciate it an for as the subs go not sure how you figure they are entry level subs when they are rms 1500 and peak 2500 each sub not to mention they are competition spl subs that are better then most subs yo uh can get far as your everyday audio store or what not like in referring to like punch and kicker an jbl or boss and alpine even Kenwood and some of the sundown also being that they are pretty much a better cheaper version of the sundown audio and then size of these subs are not your average subs being they need a mounting depth of 7.75 inch's that's just inside the box so please help me understand your comment and as I already said in the post that the port on my box is junk so not sure why your just commenting and saying the same thing I already said when I'm asking for help and ideas not some ² cents worth of not helpful advice that's for sure and if that's what your wanting to comment then just don't bother please. I'm serious and asking for some professional advice and help if anyone can help I'd appreciate it very much. I'm would really like to get some advice from the actual man around her mr Steve mead himself that would be great not to mention I'd like to speak to him about possible work I'm looking to get done and really want Steve mead design to be the man that builds my stuff I'm wanting done, so Steve mead design is f you read this please get back to me and let's get together and figure out some ideas and talk prices and build time please thank you
Here are my 2 cents, take the time to answer at least some of the questions we asked you if you seriously are looking for help.
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10 hours ago, Shaun davis said:
Figure out what it was . I’m having the same problem . Car amps and speaker work fine when car is just in the in position but as soon as I start it up sound goes crazy . Basically shuts off
You just resurrected a 14 year old thread, pretty awesome.
Is this a new issue or you are just finishing a new install?
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3 hours ago, GixsirJB1k said:
I hope I can get some help and advice by someone please. Let me start with what my problem is and that is for what setup I have I was told and believed that I would be knocking hella better then I am when I can't even be heard coming down the road a couple blocks away which I was hoping that I would be able to hear me before I got in the driveway atleast 2 blocks away if not even more and thought it would make your nose itch and shake the rearview mirror off i thought but it barely even shakes it at all. I have two of the skar evl 12s that are dual 4 ohm in a ported box that has a slot port that is 25" long by 2" high and 3" deep in the box and it's located at the bottom front of the box which is located in the back of the cab of my 06 dodge mega cab behind the rear seats and also has the storage bin removed to ha e more space the box is 3/4" mdf and it's been sealed and screwed tight then it's also been Bondo over all the seams and then primer and paint and 2k clear coat 3 coats if it. It's running of the skar rp 2000.1 amp it's all wired with 0 gauge ofc wire for POS and NEG that is also hooked up to a 6 farad boss capacitor and also have another amp that is a kicker 500x4 that's pusing the front door skar 6x9s and the rear door skar 6.5 components that also have the skar 1" component tweeter that is all aluminum that is mounted in a fiberglass door pod in the rear doors that was custom built and the head unit is the Kenwood dmx7706s that also has the ska7EQ by skar and a Soundstream bx-12 digital bass machine hooked up and I took the truck to a local audio shop and asked then do I need a bigger alternator and they looked at mine and said for what I am going to have all running that I wouldn't need a bigger one that mine is a 178 amp I think they said it's the factory one in the 06 dodge ram 2500 slt mega cab 4x4 with the 5.7 hemi so I didn't get a bigger one but I have installed all new 0 gauge wire from my battery to the alternator both POS and NEG and from the starter as well which I believe is what they call the big3 I'm not sure but can anyone please help me and give me some advice and or even possibly know anyone that is down to fix it all for me I'll pay not a problem I am already out 750 bucks from the first so called professional car audio tech that was supposed to do it all and build a custom box and install everything and I ended up getting a ok built box but personally think the port in not done right and should not have been at the bottom of the box and should have been along the entire top of the box instead but the guy said it's perfect the port will be lined up with the bottom of the rear seats and that is not how it is now it's directly at the rear seat and is only like 3" or 4" away at that the box goes from the white driver's side of the rear cab inside to the passenger side but has 4" of space left on each end and the booton of the box is I think 17" and the tip is 3" but it follows the contour of the rear of the cab and is not a exactly wedge shape it's got a space that contours a 1-¹/2" by 9" section that is cut out of the top rear of the box and the front is a str8 angle from the tip to the bottom where it then stops and makes the 90% angle str8 down to the bottom of the Bock so it's got a total of 7 pieces and the 2 ends if that makes sense if I can upload pictures on here I will add some to help give the idea because I'm sure I'm making it sound crazy but please someone I need help and want to start knocking and shaking shit and actually be heard coming down the road and not only when I'm pulling up that's insane I know I should be hitting way better for what I got and I know that I will eventually need to add another amp like I got to have one running on it's own sub but at the moment the amo I have I know is well underrated and actually provides way more then it's rms and the subs I have are 1250 rms and can take that easy please help also I'm going to be getting a different amp to run the kids and highs which I was looking at the skar 1500 qmo can't remember the middle but it's the one step down from the rp models and should be enough to power the mids and highs I'll be waiting to hear back also in located in Monterey California and willing to travel a few hours away if need be to get it done right which I was really wanting to have my system done by Steve mead design and hopefully start advertising from him when I get it done and ha e the truck at the SEMA convention once it's completely finished building it
this is the space I had to work with and the box goes from the end of the grey carpet by seat all the way to rear of the cab and end to end and up to the bottom of rear windowThis is just an idea of what I was thinking of but with just two subs and the amps mounted on top rather then the 6x9s
20200920_122241.heic 1.28 MB · 1 download 20201011_133221.heic 2.64 MB · 1 download 20201022_150816.heic 1.34 MB · 0 downloads 20201020_183649.heic 1.2 MB · 0 downloads
That port is a joke as you describe it, you should list your full box design and pics of everything, your subs are kind of entry level too.
Also relax a bit please, one thing at a time. and a lot of pics.
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On 1/28/2022 at 11:08 AM, liteblue said:
D1 in series
Thanks for sharing your work.
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This was better in the enclosures section I think, Do a box sub / port up to sundown specs to avoid rattle.
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Give unclipped 750W RMS to this sub and it will work without issues if your box is properly designed, NEVER forget to engage your amp's subsonic filter to 28-30Hz.
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Yes, the pic is just an assembly guide, the extension is so small that you could just not do it.
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Can be done like this, subs /port firing forwards/backwards, power: to subs rated:
45s are done as follows:
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The BRZ1200 has an output to feed a second amp so you can do that. You will need to gain match though.
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Hello, first of all, this is the box that I'm building (it takes 100% of my trunk.)
the box is total of 6.3 cubes (before sub displacement and ports.), slanted front box.
this is the box:
I was thinking about making two 6" tube ports, 15.7" long, at the top of the box, tuned to 36 hz.
but my friend told me that two ports arent gonna be enough for that box.
my goal is to play 33-38 hz, any suggestions of tube ports?
the sub will be sitting at the back of the box. (the slanted side will be behind my back seats.)
Hello, first of all, this is the box that I'm building (it takes 100% of my trunk.)
the box is total of 6.3 cubes (before sub displacement and ports.), slanted front box.
this is the box:
I was thinking about making two 6" tube ports, 15.7" long, at the top of the box, tuned to 36 hz.
but my friend told me that two ports arent gonna be enough for that box.
my goal is to play 33-38 hz, any suggestions of tube ports?
the sub will be sitting at the back of the box. (the slanted side will be behind my back seats.)
I would setup the software for ported.
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I had two sa-8 v.1 in my truck. Then I got 2 sa-12 in my tc and they take my whole trunk. So i'm just looking for something to hold me over till the x-8s finally come out. Just want to check which would be the best to use.
If you are looking to save space then yes at least two 8"s, two 10s will give you about 43% of extra cone area and will only cost you about 0.8 cubes of extra of net volume. Depends on your goals.
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You have space for 12s back there, I wouldn't do 8s more so if you are thinking of upgrading later.
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Fix the black on dark grey man, on your question you don't mention the vehicle, power, don't provide a sketch of your plan, and you are using a really inaccurate calculator... welcome to SMD!
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So here is a suggestion to 750W RMS for the SA-8v2, depending on your specific vehicle you may probably want different port/sub aimings:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 34.5 Hz
Vb = 0.66 ft^3
External Height = 9.5 in
External Width = 21.25 in
External Depth = 13.25 in
Port Width = 1 3/8 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front & Back = 21 1/4 x 9 1/2
Left & Right Sides = 11 3/4 x 8
Top & Bottom = 21 1/4 x 11 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 10 3/8 x 8
Extension = 16 1/4 x 8
Extension 2 = 3 1/8 x 8Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Important notes:
- Setting your amp subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested.-
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I was toying with the thought of getting two matching sets of coaxial car speakers and making some cabinets for them out of either 1/2 or 3/4 mdf to hook up to a home theatre receiver. For example, two 6.5" speakers per cabinet, wired in series for 8 ohms. I'm not looking for great bang for the buck, just thought it might be a fun project. Speakers would just be going in my dirty basement powered off a lower end Sony receiver.
Anyone ever tried anything like this? Any red flags with this idea?
Thanks!
Most car audio speakers are designed to work on a infinite baffle setting so if you box them try to make the box on the large side to get the most from them. Other than that they will work fine wired in series as you say.
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Here is a suggestion, 2K RMS limit and had to go to 15.5H hope you can fit that :
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 33 Hz
Vb = 3 ft^3
External Height = 15.5 in
External Width = 33.5 in
External Depth = 19 in
Port Width = 3 3/4 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 33 1/2 x 15 1/2
Left & Right Sides = 16 3/4 x 14
Top & Bottom = 33 1/2 x 16 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 13 x 14
Extension = 16 1/2 x 14
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Subsonic filter to 27 Hz. Let me know any questions.
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like i said im bad with computers LOL
and im not positive on how to download it.... :fail:
Just click "File" and then "download as", choose the format of the spreadsheet and that's all.
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Assembly of box for 15 inch subwoofer, help me please
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted · Edited by Joe X
So before anything I would like to know your situation, do you have a working system that is not performing well and you want to improve it?
If the sub has currently an enclosure, do you have specs?
Do you have any pics of your system you would like to share?