Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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If you are getting a custom built sub specs are anyone's guess, it needs to be broken in and then measure t/s params, or take a guess, if that's the exact unit you are getting you should ask the guy to tell the specs they gave him. They took off the LMS coil so it won't perform linear as the original 4000 hope that's what you are wanting.
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No it does not have to be pushed against the seat at all in fact some airspace in front of the sub is beneficial, the idea of sealing off is that gets done air tight so you pressurize a smaller volume. There a number of improvements that can be done but you need to carefully consider your space and then it gets modified to a final spec.
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Here is another suggestion it achieves about 7.8 cubic feet @ 33Hz and two subs fully front firing:
Some improvements pending.
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Ive decided to go solo 15" for my build, which will allow me ALOT of box volume for it (between 5-6 cuft max). i was wondering if anybody has had any experience with this brand and what box this sub might like to see? Ive been thinking between 4-4.5 cu ft, but i wanted to see what you guys would recommend me to try and measure for? Ill be using about 2k-2.5k watts. thanks
Seriously off:
http://web.archive.org/web/20061112053902/www.tcsounds.com/lms4000.htm
Would need to model to see how smaller it can be done
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no man and hell i only payed 150 for them alpines i work at a gas station far from rich my latest sub was a m.a. audio 15 but it was doa bad spider
back to the original ? is a rd alpha 15 worth $400
Well I would recommend any number of other subs over that and more so at $400, your new box seems a faulty design and if you have a trunk car you should only use a 15" sub if it can fit vertically installed (to fire frontwards or backwards) for efficiency and to avoid the trunk lid rattling. Lastly I wouldn't find any fun in seeing my hard earned stuff blow up but I guess each to his own....
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box might have been a lil small im kinda new at the high level stuff i was basically a dumb ass and wired it wrong on one then i woofer cooked the other lol.. this sub will be setup right
im am going threw a shop now cool guy i think http://www.ahoaudio.com/ is who im using hes been blowing up with business lately
i have a new box right now about 5 cubes 2 3in pvc ports 32x28x12 my entire trunk lol
btw i had two 12's @ first now im going to one 15
no pics yet i need to do a build log
Sounds to me like you have fun blowing up stuff.. guess you are rich.
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ok so ive been threw some subs lately and im getting another my ? is a rd alpha 15 worth $400 or should i be getting something else
A list of the subs you have used, and why you didn't keep the would be interesting. And a description of your system.
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okay so i did the precision port calculator, and for a 6 inch port it would be around 12.5 inches for 34hz. is that enough? i want the most efficency i can get.
Is way below the port area necessary for optimum efficiency.
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Okay so i have 2 sa 12s on the way and a brz1700amp, i am trying to design a box for my audi a4 that will be sealed off from the trunk into the cabin, i have never done this before and i am still learning about box rise, to combat box rise i would like to do an 8 inch areo port, as well as 45s and fiber resin. the space i have to work with is 35" wide, 17" tall, and 20 inches deep. i am aiming for about 4.2 cubic feet ( is that enough?) and around 35hz tuning. i just need a kick in the right direction!
The 8" port would need to be about 21" for a 35Hz so it would need to be firing sideways.
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Do it 2 1/2" - 3" wide.
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is that 2 pieces of wood on the top?
Overkill if you wish but yes, the cutlist shows that also.
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Ok so here is a suggestion:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 34 Hz
Vb = 4 ft^3
External Height = 22 in
External Width = 36.5 in
External Depth = 15 in
Port Width = 4 1/4 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 36 1/2 x 15
Left & Right Sides = 13 1/2 x 19 3/4
Front & Back = 36 1/2 x 19 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Top to Bottom = 15 1/2 x 13 1/2
Extension = 3 x 13 1/2
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Let me know any questions.
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Ok are you removing the backseats?
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will someone make me a good box design for 2 sa-12s, i gonna hook it up on a Rockford fosgate r.750.1 (934 watts rms) i no thats small but gonna have to do for now.need any more info let me no
Ok what's your vehicle, type of music you listen and the maximum dims for the box (height, width, depth).
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Well, I did round the corner a bit, just not a 45. It's not going to affect the performance without that 45 in the corner?
If you have not rounded the corner and not done the 45 in the port turn, never mind it will work regardless.
You are ok.. don't worry.
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It is indeed portup/subup, As far as port dimensions, I have always gone off of the height of the port being if your looking at the top of the box, so the depth of the outer dimensions on the program. i thought it might be a bit small, guess I was right.
Edit: I was told this by the owner of the company, so I thought that was the best place to ask for the design on their equipment.
You are also at 1" from the sidewall so the port length is 44" so tuned a bit lower.
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I was told by kevin himself since i am running almost dbl rms, to go 2.5Cu
That's to prevent it from bottoming out. Some modelling may help you. Also you have checked sub,/port up but the port height suggests the idea was sub front/port up.
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That's the net volume for sealed...
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Some speaker terminals here:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i456_box-terminals.html
Place in the opposite side of where the port is located, if you can't do angled cuts just don't do any of the 45s, just glue and screw the panels and you are done. The flush mount is done adding a baffle layer with the cutout the size of the overall diameter of the sub.
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or a dc
Level 4 or 5?
The Q and the DC work in larger enclosures ( about 6 cubes and above) the Zv.3 works in 4-5 cubes that's a big difference when lacking space, if going with those other brands better a couple of 12s which will fit in 4.5-5 cubes comfortably but two subs will cost more and need more power.
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If you have not rounded the corner and not done the 45 in the port turn, never mind it will work regardless.
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The chaos of course (if you are willing to pay the premium).
I would also suggest Fi SSD which is about $200.. superb stuff.
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How big (at the widest point) should the 45 be? I hope you understand what I mean.
Example: should I take a 3" strip of wood and 45 it?
Do you understand what I'm asking?
If you slant the inner corner of the turn as shown the 45 should be done as follows:
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Can anyone answer my question? I've never built a box with an L port or with 45's. If the port is 3 3/8" wide, does it need to be 3 3/8" wide at the turn?
Yes slant or round the inner corner of the turn is recommended, if you are to put a 45 there, you need to make sure is not made too big, the port has to be 3 3/8" AT the turn also.
EDIT: if you find hard to make 45s just don't do them, is an optimization only, if don wrong can hurt not help performance. If you have any other questions let me know.
TC LMS-4000 15" box help
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Break in period varies among subs but usually 200 Hrs (effective) at around 2/3 of xmax will loosen things out enough to make a t/s reading.