Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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Hope is not a $50 2k amp.
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Bump
There is no manual/specs for the BC series, I would like to know what is the overall diameter of the sub and if you can go a bit wider than 35".
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Ok. With the port Where you have it placed it will be firing under the passenger side rear seat. From the rear driver side door(closed) I can use 36". So there is roughly 28" from the port to the rear passenger side door. But the seat prevents making the box any wider.
So the port firing below the backseat has plenty of free airspace in front of it.
I have changed the above suggestion to 36W, port area has gone up to around the 15 square inches per cube range.
The Torres savefile was also updated.
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A reliable method to determine port area would be the Richard Small's method, but I don't have Xmax for the driver and I could only estimate Sd (cone surface area), Using the mach method it gives around 56.5 square inches of port to stay within 5% of mach, at present is at 82.5.
I had to give 32W to prevent choking the port which is firing sideways but you need to let me know how wide I can go still having about 5" of free airspace in front of the port, if I can go wider, I can make a bigger port and still keep 6 cubes of net vol.
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I wrote that wrong. The amp ill be using is a ap15001d audiopipe. Can anyone help me? thanks!
Post the size of the box (external dimensions and port dimensions if it's a ported design) of the box you have now, and what's the problem with it. Also check your electrical, wiring, etc.
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You don't have any braces so that 0.1 is 0.
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Well, actually it would be best to have all sub parameters and I would think you have more than 36W, at 36W subs/port up is not an option, so subs up/port side is the suggestion, you should have 5" of free airspace in front of the port for it to work properly:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32.18 Hz
Vb = 6.05 ft^3
External Height = 27.25 in
External Width = 36 in
External Depth = 18 in
Port Width = 16 1/2 in
Port Height = 5 1/2 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 36 x 18
Left & Right Sides =
Side 1 = 19 1/2 x 16 1/2
Side 2 = 25 x 16 1/2
Front & Back = 36 x 25
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Side to Side = 27 5/8 x 16 1/2
Here is the Torres project, copy the following and save it into a .txt file and open that with Torrres:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?>
<Data TextBoxData="MyData">
<xBoxHeight>27.25</xBoxHeight>
<xBoxHeight2></xBoxHeight2>
<xBoxWidth>18</xBoxWidth>
<xBoxDepth>36</xBoxDepth>
<xBoxDepth2></xBoxDepth2>
<xPortHeight>5.5</xPortHeight>
<xPortWidth>16.5</xPortWidth>
<xPortLength>28.375</xPortLength>
<xNumOfPorts></xNumOfPorts>
<xPortDiameter></xPortDiameter>
<xSubDisplace>.32</xSubDisplace>
<braceDisplace></braceDisplace>
<xBaffleThickness>.75</xBaffleThickness>
<xCommonWalls>3</xCommonWalls>
<numOfBaffles>1</numOfBaffles>
<externalPort></externalPort>
</Data>
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The REN850S you list is 450W RMS and then you have a mid/highs amp, If you are experiencing dimming with that relatively light equipment I'd say your electrical is in rather bad shape, the voltmeter will show that but really this is about start working on it, have your alt, the alt cables and your battery checked.
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Post your vehicle model and the driver displacement of that sub.
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A bit tight.. best of luck.
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I found a good deal on a chrysler 300, so I am going to be buying it next week. I've been thinking about the build and need some help. Everyone I talk to says it's best to fire the subs forward and seal them off. My question is, would I be better doing 2 10's forward firing or two 12's or even 15's facing the trunk? I kind of like the idea of being able to seal off the back of the box if i face them forward giving it a more factory look. But will 2 10's facing forward be close to as loud as 2 15's facing the hatch? The subs will be sundown sa series tuned to 28 hz aero ported by the way. Thanks!
edit: will only be running them off an arc audio ks 1000.1bx for now. so only 500w per sub.
Get the max dims of the trunk, kind of hard to fit 2 15's in a trunk but if it can be done right I'd probably go for it.
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You wont get a 12" sub and a 2" port in a 14" tall space. If you can go a bit taller you can make it work, but it will be tight. here is an idea, let me know what you think
Wow, I really can't believe that I overlooked something that simple in my original design ideas. That's enough to make a guy feel pretty stupid...
Looking at the sketchup, still missing the 3 common walls, declare the extra baffle and it seems that the port length is not measured along the centerline. Also there are no braces there so bracing displacement should be 0.
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ok, that puts my tunning at 40.06hz, port area at 162.75 with 18.04in2 fer foot and net volume at 9.02 with 21 inches of height.
or...
Tunning at 38.66,same port area but with 16.79in2 at 9.69 net volume...
which one is better?
Cutdeluxes1 what sort of bracing are you doing that will take 1.5 cubic feet?? also if you are doing 1.5" wood all around why you have it set to 0.75??
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Not much of a point to sell a kicker to then install a smaller kicker, those subs get loud in the right box but lack sound quality. I think there are way many more options out there, I'd be willing to wait a bit and to pay more for something better. If you can get some JL Audio W7 from those you list are the better ones, not really very loud subs but nice sounding and decent output in the right box, anyhow It would be better to have a complete list of the stuff you can find locally. Alpine subs can be an option if you can get them, type X can get loud are expensive.
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Welcome to the forums.Here is a suggestion for a box:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 37 Hz
Vb = 0.88 ft^3
External Height = 12 in
External Width = 20 in
External Depth = 14 in
Port Width = 1 5/8 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front = 17 5/8 x 10 1/2
Back = 20 x 10 1/2
Left & Right Sides:
Side 1 = 12 1/2 x 10 1/2
Side 2 = 13 1/4 x 10 1/2
Top & Bottom = 20 x 14
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 10 7/8 x 10 1/2
Extension = 14 1/2 x 10 1/2
Extension 2 = 3 1/16 x 10 1/2
Let me know any questions.
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Here is a suggestion using a center slot port, just needed 2 inches, hopefully you can afford that:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 36 Hz
Vb = 3 ft^3
External Height = 16 in
External Width = 30 in
External Depth = 20 in
Port Width = 3 1/4 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 30 x 16
Left & Right Sides = 17 3/4 x 14 1/2
Top & Bottom = 30 x 17 3/4
Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:
2 x Front to Back = 16 1/8 x 14 1/2
2 x Extension = 4 3/16 x 14 1/2
Let me know any questions.
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The port is too thin and the port area is low for that sub, the driver displacement is 0.1 cubic feet for the V2 despite what's listed. But you don't have to take my word for that, you can just build it and see how it goes.
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Could the measurements for the box be 12x12x14?
Better post the maximum dimensions you have that is not enough, not sure where do you intend to place this box, if you can post some pics.
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The port length is measured along the centerline end to end.
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I am trying to design a box for my 2 dc lvl 4 12 inch speakers.. my limitations are 30 (wide)x18(deep)x16(high).. i wanna tune it around 33-37 hz with a center port inbetween the two subwoofers.. im using the Torres box tuning calculator but im gettin so lost when it comes to the port part.. can someone help me?
You are tight, 3 cubic feet net (1.5 per sub) is recommended for those, increase your max dims a bit
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Idk what happened with that comment...but yea
If you decide to build your own just post the max dims for your box, amp and car models, and myself or others will submit a cutlist for you. Many boxes need just 8 pieces of wood to be joined together.
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No
Just go to home depot with a cutlist, glue the pieces together and you are done, won't really cost, just a few hours on a weekend.
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Thanks guys.. I live near a shop that sells and imports like kicker for an example and i think i will buy it there...
I think i will build the box myself.. just dont know what material i am going to use.....
What amp and subwoofer do you guys recommend?
Looks like you did not noticed a couple of posts before the one I am quoting, again:
It comes down to what equipment brands you can get locally in your country OR if you are willing to import from USA your equipment.
It's easy to build a box for a couple of 12s, same wood as used for your old box.
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Was thinking about 1500-2500$ or more, i think get what ever i want.. I was hoping for kicker, or rockford fosgate
If you want to import stuff directly from the USA I would recommend this:
or this:
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/
If you just want to buy local, RF amps are excellent but very expensive, subs from either kicker or RF wouldn't be my first choice but RF subs require less space than kickers and so you will need to build a somewhat smaller box.
If you want I can provide specs for a custom box in metric units for the subs you get, also take your time thinking on the electrical system upgrades that you will need depending on the amplifier you choose.
pioneer premier champion series pro 12 TS-3001D4 is it good?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
A single 12" in an Explorer is not going to break windows anyway, since you already have it I would try it in a 1.5 cubes net @35Hz sub up /port back box, subsonic filter at 29Hz and it will get better.