Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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I have a honda accord coupe, its a pretty small car. I listen to mostly rap and my goal is to get as much bass as possible out of the single cvr. I think im supposed to make a ported box but i'm not sure.
Ok you have an Accord, what are the max dims for the box and what's the model of the amp.
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I just bought a kicker cvr 12", and I am very confused on how to make the box. Ive looked at the box calculator on re audio, but it is supposedly inaccurate. I dont really know where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Post vehicle, amp models, max dims amd music type you listen to. I can provide you as suggestion or help to create your own.
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To start off, wonderful site and community here people!
I'm new and wasn't sure if this was a wiring or what category. My apologies.
I have a 2006 Cadillac CTS non bose which i am leaving for the time being. I will be swapping everything out at a later time so it'll just be one big jump on it.
I am wanting to supplement the existing subwoofer that is built in with two little 12's i was given. My only hindrance here is the remote turn on lead for the amp, and the RCA for the input. I cannot for the life of me make sense of some of the wiring diagrams at cadillacfaq.com
The stock amp is the acdelco that is OEM and i want to run these subs off the same channel as the existing sub so the factory HU still controls it. Sorry if it sounds like I'm talking in circles guys, long day.
There is this LOC (may be others) that when they listen audio signal it will self generate an amp turn on signal without you needing to interface with something else:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html
If you are cheap you can just use the ignition signal but you will have to interface from a fuse box or somewhere like that and the amp will stay on as long as the car is on.
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So my buddy put an alpine type R 15 in a sealed box, and its hitting way lower than my 10^ft box tuned to 35 hz with two 18s in it, similar to the dc lvl 4's. Granted, im giving them 1k a piece but they rms at 2500, but what's the deal here ? I mean, I THOUGHT 35hz was fairly low. But that sealed box he has his subs in is giving incredible bass response. Now, I didn't build the box the 18s are in, but it looks like it has enough port area ? I'll post pictures when I get to a computer, but any idea what it would be ??
The best you can do is giving the external dimensions of the box and the dimensions of the box and the vehicle this is in. Also you should check your subsonic filter so that is not tuned to high and the incoming signal not to be hi passed or equalized etc.
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yeah im goin to go with 12s .... thats what i was talking about ... i just wanted to find some that you dont need alot of air space for
DC Audio, Rockford Fosgate for example can work in smaller than average enclosures.
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I would recommend a couple of Sundown Audio E12:
http://www.ebay.com/...d8d37ff&vxp=mtr
As you can see cheap, to save space a common chamber side aero ported box.
Could be done in about these dimensions:
External Height = 16 in
External Width = 30.5 in
External Depth = 17 in
You can use this amp for them:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22705_Hifonics-HFi1000D.html
Would match them perfectly and isn't very expensive either.
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hey guys'
This weekend Im gonna build enclosure for 2 fi q 12's
dimensions
34x16x20 a lil bit over 5 cuft without displacement
I wanna tune it to 30hz with round port and I just wander where I can get one?
torress says that I need one port 12" long with 6" diameter. port has 0.21 cuft
thanks !
edit: Maybe I should go with bigger / smaller port ?
On those dims about 3 4" port to the side would do but port area may be only sufficient, Slot ports are the way to go when aero ports can't provide what you need.
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36w x 30d x 15h is what i have ... i just took measurements .... also i WONT be using BOSS ... that was just a quick and CHEAP build ... but i love my amps
The amps would have to go as well, but you do seem to have space for just about any couple of 12s.
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Seems you are all set then, let me know any questions later.
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Hey Joe, u got an internal view of that box? Trying to see how u got that port laid out. The other box was just one flat piece of MDF
Sure:
Also I would personally tune higher but each to his own.
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I really like vertical ports since avoid bracing is just that you are not wide enough to fit it and give proper port area. If you are willing to use standard PVC pipe and flare it yourself can do aeros is just that it may not look very nice.
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Hey Joe, glad u chimed in. Last box u designed for me was cool but those VFL's werd crap. So those are 6" port tubes? Is there a flare in there?
Yes from Torres you can see they are 6", Flared though are just available to 17 long. So check out the slot ported one.
Sorry that subs were no good.
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For across the bottom slot port this could work:
Enclosure Specifications:
External Height = 20 in
External Width = 36 in
External Depth = 31 in
Port Width = 28 in
Port Height = 4 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 36 x 31
Left & Right Sides = 29 1/2 x 17 3/4
Front & Back = 36 x 17 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 22 1/4 x 29 1/2
Port Left Side Assembly:
22 1/4 x 4
Port Right Side Assembly:
22 1/4 x 4
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For aero ports this can work:
Best on around rated power.
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Hello hapitec, here is a full layout with calculations for the box above for you to make calculations of any kind on it::
Here are some figures on the box:
Driver displacement used was 0.22 cubic feet per sub.
Gross internal volume is 18 1/2 x 19 3/4 x 49 1/2 that equals to 10.46647 cubic feet.
Port displacement ( parts + airspace ) = 18 1/2 x 19 3/4 x 9 = 1.902994 cubic feet. (shown in the transparent blue cube behind the box).
Port center line length = 19 3/8 + 4 1/2 = 23 9/8 inches.
Bracing displacement for two 45s 3 inches wide = 0.048 cubic feet
Net internal volume = 10.46647 - 1.902994 - 0.44 - 0.048 = 8.075 cubic feet ( or 4.037 cubic feet per chamber).
Hope this is enough information BUT if you have any questions let me know.
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Also, I just thought of something, my port will be facing the hatch. And since the box will be so big, I'm sure the port will be very close to the back hatch. Am I going to have to tune my box higher because the back hatch will act like an external port? This is my first build with the port back against the hatch. thanks!
Yes you will have to keep in front of the port a distance about equal to the width or the height of the port whichever is less. If you post your max dims for the box I could give you a suggestion.
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Trying something alternative to the previous one:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32.6 Hz
Vb = 4 ft^3
External Height = 15 in
External Width = 30 in
External Depth = 28 in
Port Width = 5 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 30 x 15
Left & Right Sides = 25 3/4 x 13 1/2
Top & Bottom = 30 x 25 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 20 3/4 x 13 1/2
Extension = 5 x 13 1/2
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
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And forgot to tell you, need free airspace in front of the port, it should be about the width of the port itself. Otherwise it won't work as designed.
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I missed the one on the 45s, they take away some airspace and have not consistently proven to be necessary (those shown in the port turn do help though), I will rephrase on the double baffle answer, remains your option to do a single baffle (it will not take away 0.5 cubic feet though if that was the case I would do a single baffle also). Can't see a Torres screenshot sorry.
Thanks for all your help. I had some trouble deciding but you made it easier for me. I'll be going for the single baffle, but will do the all 45s for some reinforcement. I also have another question, but the topic is totally unrelated.
As I mentioned, I have a Camry with JBL integration. I am using the factory speakers but want to add aftermarket speakers using a 4-channel amp and my only option is to use high-level input to get a signal to the channels of amp. The problem is that the speaker is not a single 2-way speaker, but they are component set. I can only get the signal from one speaker, either the tweeter or woofer, to one channel, like this, so the channel can only pay highs (if I got the input from the tweeter) or lows (if I got the input from the woofer). How can I get a full frequency signal to a channel when they are separated like that? Is it possible to just take both positives and both negatives (from the tweeter and woofer) and wire it to the one channel?
I know this question is out there so I may have to repost this in the amp forum; I was just wondering if you knew.
Obviously you need someone who has direct experience with that JBL system but the idea is to take the signal before it becomes crossovered, if you just join cables unpredictable results may follow by feeding the output stage of one amplifier to the other. You may however just feed the amplifier with the incoming signals and use that to power aftermarket components BUT results would be likely bad since the crossover frequencies may be different for the afternarket comps. Honestly I would just remove all stock stuff and place my own HU and be done with it.
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Ok here is a suggestion:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 34 Hz
Vb = 3 ft^3
External Height = 18 in
External Width = 28 in
External Depth = 17 in
Port Width = 2 3/4 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Top & Bottom = 28 x 17
Left & Right Sides = 15 1/2 x 16 1/2
Front & Back = 28 x 16 1/2
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Top to Bottom = 13 3/4 x 15 1/2
Extension = 7 3/4 x 15 1/2
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Let me know any questions.
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No, i do all my friends systems when they pay for for cheap. They always complian idk why. I been doin it for almost 2 months so i have all the experience i need. I did my college teachers system last week. He came back to my house and his car was smoky. He said it was cuz i hooked up the subs directly to the battery which i ALWAYS do! I told him cuz he turned it way up. Way too loud!! He wanted his money back. I dont know what im doing wrong.?
OK man the only way to help you is for you to provide us with pics, plenty of them the car, trunk and some measurements, a pic of the 10 grand would also help..
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Mustang Trunk ... Box is 34w x 16h x 16d sealed ... lemme know if i should port it and how big of a port ... i also have them pointed toward the front
I checked and those drivers are well suited for sealed usage, will perform worse on ported box unless it was huge, in any case fill them with damping material like poly-fill or dacron and you will get more bass.
Your best bet though is get 2 12"s as has been suggested there are great options for $110-150 each.
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Thank you Guys for all your Inputs ... I have the 15s in my trunk now .. i have a video and pics of them on here ... i have great sound and the monblock 4000.1 Mean Machine is heating them up pretty good ... The box i have them in is sealed and they are wired to 2 Ohm BUT I WANT MORE BASSSS !!! ... lol doesnt everyone ... I just wasnt sure if they would give more if the box was ported
As before post the maximum dimensions for a box. anyhow if this is a trunk car and you have subs up then you may get less output because of that.
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I missed the one on the 45s, they take away some airspace and have not consistently proven to be necessary (those shown in the port turn do help though), I will rephrase on the double baffle answer, remains your option to do a single baffle (it will not take away 0.5 cubic feet though if that was the case I would do a single baffle also). Can't see a Torres screenshot sorry.
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Really Confused
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
You have roughly 8 cubes net in that enclosure, you should have 12 cubes net for 2 18s, that box could work well with 2 15s.