Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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Someone needs to test if the alternator is charging properly, where the voltage drops in your lines to determine what is at fault, you need to have that done by someone or do it yourself, hopefully you will find what is wrong.
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Due to the considerable voltage drop it looks like your electrical has a problem, ideally you should run a 1/0 line to each amp and have two 1/0 lines to ground and you should make sure your grounding location has good contact, with some vehicles is better to run ground lines directly to the battery. So have that electrical system throughly checked, battery, alt , big 3 and power lines.
Once that is done set your gains with a scope or a DD-1 both head unit and amps to makes sure there is no distortion in the signal path.
See how that goes.
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If you have D2 subs wired down to 1 ohm and the amps are the MXD-2000-2 version instead of the MXD-2000-1 then that's your problem. Full bridge amps can't be run below their minimum stable impedance.
In any case that setup of yours certainly is odd, high end electrical + walmart amps + low power subs, you sure don't mind to post pics of that system right? Would be awesome to see.
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Voltage drops mean your electrical system can't handle the power the amps want, electrical upgrades (agm battery or batteries, alternator, big 3, power wiring) are available to fix those voltage drops and when that is fixed you need to setup your gains so that no clipping occurs. your electrical system upgrades need to be calculated to match the needs of your system but not significantly exceed what is needed as you may end up overspending badly.
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So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 3/4", figure is just an assembly guide:
NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
NOTE: Since your seats fold down you can fire forward and seal off or you could do the more common firing subs back.
NOTE: Wood thickness is one inch for this design.
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Seats fold down?
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You need a port diameter clearance to the back wall for those ports, I would just do a slot port 30 square inches of port area instead of 3D printing some bent ports but whatever.
To get the airspeed enter the power but DO NOT press enter, instead click on the plot and it will be updated. Since this software is no longer being updated that bug will stay there forever.
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In a 2.2 net @35 Hz, two 4" round ports ported box (estimated size from your measurements) I get 30.1 m/s @1500W RMS using bassbox pro, for round ports up to about 35 m/s is reasonable, if it was a slot port about 25 m/s is about what you would have.
Take care on how you enter numbers and other calculations.
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For a 12 of that power you need like two 4" ports, usually mounted on the side of the box so that they fit without turning and do not use the baffle.
To me is better going slot port with about 30 square inches of port area.
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Check out these two to make your mind on what to do:
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Glad to see you finally got everything sorted, I am not surprised you got into trouble with that amp though, it's a radical departure from the V1, V1.5 design, so it's a new architecture, as you know the V1.5 fixed many of the issues of the V1, it is always like that, one should never buy the first revision of a new product, also buying a D1 sub to work alone is problematic as 1 ohm power is so easy to find and inexpensive. Now you have lived through it, I guess your next upgrade will go a little smoother. Certainly hope so. Best of luck.
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I would bridge both channels to get 300W each side and then use passive crossovers so you can get the tweeters powered too. That way you preserve stereo and balance and you are giving 300W to those mids which is their actual power.
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If you have 4 channel outputs from your factory head unit and you want the ability to fader then use the lc5i.
If you have only 2 channel outputs from your factory head unit then use the lc2i, use splitters to feed the 4 channels full range inputs on the amp, you won't be able to control fader from the head unit but you can have a fixed fader using the gains on the amp front and rear channels.
The sub channel goes to the sub input of the amp in either case.
So, in the end you could use either LOC just bearing in mind the above mentioned limitations of using a 2 channel LOC.
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Put the secondary battery in the back close to the amps makes sense due to lesser electrical resistance of shorter power wires between the battery and the amps. But if you run multiple wire runs to the back you can also lower resistance that way so if you are able and inclined to run two batteries in the front, it is still possible to do.
Also when you are running a lot of current it is recommended to avoid grounding to chassis, it is better to run ground lines directly to the front.
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On 2/7/2024 at 7:41 AM, kelly said:
Just general information right now. I built car audio systems in the 90's but haven't built any since then. Family and life took over. Back then I asked the same question to audio shops and installers and could never really get an answer. I knew it would have some effect but wasn't really sure how or why. Always on the search for knowledge.
If you are familiar enough with audio technology and can understand amplitude vs frequency/phase plots (bode diagrams) read the Loudspeaker design cookbook 7th edition by Vance Dickason chapter eleven to understand the acoustics inside vehicles, a bit dated book maybe but enough infos to get your questions answered.
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The length of the ports is dependent on the exact net internal volume of the box so you need to calculate that first. If you have external or internal dimensions of the box I might be able to do the calculations, if you want to do it yourself get something like the Torres calculator software which is free if you can find it.
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Some 56 square inches of total port area, two ports half that number for each port.
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Yes what you intend to do is safe, to get better results make sure you use the same sub model and the exact same box design and gain match the amps if possible.
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With a single D1 sub you could connect 1 amp to each coil of the sub and gain match the amps but that is theoretical, since they are different amps those differences would likely end up causing unpredictable issues. In any case having two subs and using 1 amp to each sub would be far safer specially if the box has separate chambers.
You are far better off selling the amps and getting a single amp to drive the sub or subs, a single skar 2000W amp is just a little over $200 new.
Also if you can't fit two 12s maybe you could fit a single 15", much louder than a single 12" on the same power.
Mixing stuff that was not meant to be mixed almost always lead to either bad performance or worse issues, my vote is just don't do it or think about doing it, do what you know it should be done and stay away from trouble.
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Almost all people using those small subs want to hit the lows better, that will be because the box is improperly designed and/or those small subs are not the best for deep bass.
The only way to compare two given subs is by using WinISD on both and compare plots on the box and power you intend to use, the program will show their differences, you won't find a single person than has experience with two given subs.
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Probably the best 8" sub will be the Sundown X8v3, using 4 of them would require a 4000W RMS amplifier, if you do have space for a proper box for them you would be far louder.
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You can delete your rear seats and do ported, no actual need for a blowthrough, or you can also get someone to do the job for you, who has measurement instrumentation, there are always options.
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Post max dimensions for a box and if seats will fold down.
Looking for amp options for dual 1ohm Fi sub (1250w RMS)
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Posted · Edited by Joe X
Many mainstream brands feature that "signal sensing" turn on you want, a notable brand would be JL Audio, many amps from them are capable of that.
But that feature is not available in most high power amps (if not all) so usually you ad a low cost device between the amp and the head unit that will both convert to "RCA level" the speaker outputs of your head unit and create a "turn on" signal for you that you can use with one or more amplifiers that you may have, check out the following link:
https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/how-to-power-and-turn-on-the-lc2i/
If you happen to find the high power amp with that "auto turn on signal" please let us know which it is, so far it has eluded me.