Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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You have 46,5 inches wide , 5 ports 4 inches in diameter are 20 inches, 26,5 inches for the subwoofers, i think that properly placed everything can fit with some effort.. can't think of anything else anyways.
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The port length can't be 19 that is the sides od the box the more I think about it I don't think its possible to so this kinda ports in this box
Note that I am suggesting to install them in the top face of the box, is possible since you have 24 inches of height. You would place the subs on the front or back.
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What amp and subs are those??
Also to reach a conclusion you need to control your variables very well, don't know if you are doing those tests with a signal generator or what.
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If you have any questions just post them here, I also checked the 0.9cuft suggestion and it looks really bad, I almost guess that sealed would be better for them than their ported suggestion, those subs have very low EBP.. if you are curious I could post some frequency response plots for you to see.
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I modelled this driver out of curiosity and found that it works great at 2cuft@32Hz at rated power of 300W. It's a gigantic enclosure for a 10" but it works giving bass down to 30Hz. You may want to try that.
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Yes it says 0.9cuft@32Hz for a ported box, a 4th order improperly designed or built can be a disaster.
If you need lows just skip the sealed, the manual states exactly how to build the ported.
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A coarse estimate for an average cabin sized car would be in the lower 120s around tuning frequency and at rated power (600W RMS) as predicted by modelling software, real world results are a different thing..
I'm sorry but please don't give out false information. With the last 2 posts I can tell you shouldn't be giving this guy advice. You just gave him dimensions for a slot ported box when he asked for a t-line. Then you told him your box would be louder. How do you know it will be louder? Do you have the exact same vehicle, power, sub, electrical, and have tried a t-line compared to that box? Then you tell him he'll be doing mid 20's on the termlab? Really dude?
I just threw in something easy to build..just in case... if the OP decides to dismiss the suggestion that's fine with me.
You quoted my post but I GUESS you missed this:
"as predicted by modelling software, real world results are a different thing"
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What is the exact model of the sub??
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A coarse estimate for an average cabin sized car would be in the lower 120s around tuning frequency and at rated power (600W RMS) as predicted by modelling software, real world results are a different thing..
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Check this out:
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=143
Sound with flanged aeros will be cleaner than slots by a good margin.
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Ok so there is a box wood displacement to consider here, from your external dims you need to substract 1.5 inches to each dimension, that will be your gross internal volume, the port and sub displacements are deducted from there.
Also to read this to know that I was talking about in my previous post:
http://www.jlaudio.com/header/Support/Tutorials/Enclosure+Ports/Tutorial%3A+Enclosure+Ports/656168
Hope this clears everything out.
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Ok I just need have clear a few things:
1) The mounting depth of the sub is 11.125" so not sure if it fits with the port below.
2) Not sure (I guess) the box dimensions you are giving are internal??
3) if the port is using the bottom of the box as a lower wall as the sketchup seems to suggest, your port displacement is miscalculated and the port tuning is also off because end correction for slot ports applies.
4) Also the length of the port should be calculated on the centerline of the port not sure if you did it that way.
To note, I have not made any calculations, these are just a few things I am not clear about.
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Here is a design suggestion for a single SA-12 tuned a bit higher, it will still hit low and be a bit louder than the 30Hz setting:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32 Hz
Vb = 1,75 ft^3
Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted
External Height = 15 in
External Width = 33,65 in
External Depth = 12 in
Port Width = 2 in
Cut List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front = 30 7/8 x 13 1/2
Back = 33 5/8 x 13 1/2
Left & Right Sides:
Side 1 = 11 1/4 x 13 1/2
Side 2 = 10 1/2 x 13 1/2
Top & Bottom = 33 5/8 x 12
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 8 1/2 x 13 1/2
Extension = 24 5/16 x 13 1/2
Here is how it assembles:
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I will double check your calculations to see if something is off.
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So where you will be installing the sub, also I imagine you will be placing a top lid.. right?
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Ok since you have no particular requirements, just check if you like the external dimensions and if you do just cut the pieces as in the cut list provided, let me know if you need an assembly diagram.
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 35 Hz
Vb = 2,5 ft^3
Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted
External Height = 15 in
External Width = 31,32 in
External Depth = 16 in
Port Width = 3 in
Cut List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front = 27 9/16 x 13 1/2
Back = 31 5/16 x 13 1/2
Left & Right Sides:
Side 1 = 15 1/4 x 13 1/2
Side 2 = 14 1/2 x 13 1/2
Top & Bottom = 31 5/16 x 16
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 11 1/2 x 13 1/2
Extension = 12 7/8 x 13 1/2
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If the ported with 15"s turned out bad you can still make some MDF rings and mount 12"s in it.
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The net internal volume seems short for dual 15"s and the displacement for the subs seem high. It could sound somewhat tight and need more power to get loud.
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Specs are in the manual, the biggest one is 3.5 cubic feet net:
www.razorgtp.com/PDFS/solo-baric.pdf
Get the maximun external dims of the box you can fit and I can provide a design suggestion.
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To tune check this out:
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31
The the subs displacement and port displacement needs to be taken into account to have a valid net internal volume they ask for.
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I was thinking abou this the other day and was wondering if you have let's say a 4 ohm SVC sub like a 9500 or something, could you take a 4 ohm resistor, wire it in parallel, and make the ohm load 2? Or is it not possible since resistors aren't polarized?
You mean to get louder making a 2 ohm load? It won't get louder because the extra power you would be getting from the amp would turn into heat in the resistor not into sound. Besides who knows what resistor would handle that much power.
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Ported give much better low end bass than sealed, are easy to build and can sound clean, bandpass is not clean bass, are good for efficiency only.
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If using 4" aeros consider this, port ends up:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 33,2 Hz
Vb = 7,001 ft^3
Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted
External Height = 24 in
External Width = 48 in
External Depth = 15 in
Cut List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 48 x 24
Left & Right Sides = 12 3/4 x 22 1/2
Top & Bottom = 48 x 12 3/4
Port Quantity and Dimensions:
Number of Ports = 5
Aero Port Diameter = 4
Aero Port Length = 19
A double layer baffle is used which helps, additional bracing may be required.
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I don't think a single 600W sub will be enough for a SUV that's the main porblem, you should be building a box for two at least.
I think that best results are achieved with ports and subs in the same surface but yes some people claim a SPL boost with up-back configuration.. all vehicles are different so you need to experiment yourself.. If you want to try the up-back configuration you need to get familiar with the Torres since the software I use don't support that.
dc level 4 xls box help
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
He was set on using 4" aeros..