Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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I don't think you need any bracing on a single 600W sub, at least the way it installs in that box, if you add asecond baffle layer behind the external one arguably you would have less flex, tuning would go upwards a bit.
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Wish you luck, check some infos on how to build and keep air tight.
@jeremyg: damn fast with Sketchup!!
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I would do the double baffle for sure, that's the surface that flexes the most, rods on that power maybe is too much on the safe side.. whatever you do take the displacements into account.
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I have seen that problem on the HDC3 but this sub will work very well on 4cuft@33Hz, take a look:
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This could work:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 33,031 Hz
Vb = 4,081 ft^3
Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted
External Height = 17 in
External Width = 34 in
External Depth = 20 in
Port Width = 4 in
Cut List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front & Back = 34 x 17
Left & Right Sides = 18 1/2 x 15 1/2
Top & Bottom = 34 x 18 1/2
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 15 1/2
Extension = 9 x 15 1/2
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You could easily add a MDF layer on the baffle face. I agree that extensive bracing may not be necessary if you are running low power.
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what about 35hz with 4.5cu net, 4.5" port thats 21" long
If you have fixed external dims you can't decide Vb, for a 35Hz tuning this could work:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 35,01 Hz
Vb = 4,34 ft^3
Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted
External Height = 15 in
External Width = 33 in
External Depth = 25 in
Port Width = 5 1/4 in
Cut List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front & Back = 33 x 15
Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 13 1/2
Top & Bottom = 33 x 23 1/2
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 18 1/4 x 13 1/2
Extension = 1 5/16 x 13 1/2
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based my port cut out on dimensions listed here:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352
based my tuning using PSP's own calculator here:
http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html
I do not know the motor diameter so I simply based the depth using the entire diameter of the cutout to insure they would actually fit.
1.8 cubic feet after all displacement is taken into account
tuning is right around 37/38 HZ
please double check all math to insure i didn't miss something
According to my calculations that box specs as follows:
Vb = 1.60710989 cu.ft
Fb = 34.7635301 Hz
Here are the details:
Individual driver displacement = 0.17 cu.ft
Wood thickness = 0.75 in
Port Diameter = 4 in
Port area = 12.566368 sq.in
Port lenght = 14.5 in
Port displacement = 194.144102 cu.in
Total driver displacement = 587.52 cu.in
External volume = 2.84505208 cu.ft
Gross internal volume = 2.05946181 cu.ft
The port considered is non flared type (flush mounted PVC Pipe). One other thing to consider is the clearance of the internal end of the port which is below the recommended 1 diameter minimun.
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Based on a 0.14 cubic feet driver displacement and 2 drivers you can build on these dimensions:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32,0 Hz
Vb = 4,257 ft^3
External Height = 15 in
External Width = 33 in
External Depth = 25 in
Port Width = 4 3/4 in
Cut List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front & Back = 33 x 15
Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 13 1/2
Top & Bottom = 33 x 23 1/2
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 18 3/4 x 13 1/2
Extension = 5 1/2 x 13 1/2
I used a slightly wider port get passed the corner of the box since it was rather near to the back wall.
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Sorry I see no screenshot or anything, a big port may take up too much of your effective internal volume, if you are confident of what you are doing good for you if not, post some external dims and I could give some suggestions.
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Can you get a screenshot of the Torres showing the parameters, it's hard to understand why you say that you need a larger port area to fit the box, in any case your port does not need to go all across if that's your problem, if you can't upload the screenshot just give the external dims you intend to use.
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I heard my 05 grand Cherokee's res.freq. is 47hz...so does this mean that's were it would be highest spl regardless if box is tuned to 32hz? Or if box was tuned to 47 it would score higher at 47 than any other setup?..Just wondering
Not tuned to 47Hz but tuned in a way that the response of the box peaks at 47Hz.
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So check the sub upward option so that the port gets properly calculated and I would add a cross brace at least in the center of the baffle face.
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Double thickness on the baffle face and some bracing are in order to say the least. Also if the port is in the same face as the subs, seems a tight fit. Probably some sketchup work on it will help you put things in proper light.
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SPL boxes peak output are frequently in the 40s region, enclosures are usually tighter the subwoofers used are usually high Fs. Just to give you an idea.
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Depends on the music you hear. You should seek an in car F3 that matches the lowest material you plan to listen which can be about 25Hz, the tuning of the box will depend on the sub you use, it's better to target F3.
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Make sure the power you are giving is stable 12V at all times (both on the red and yellow lines), disconnect anything you have connected to the aux input, check that the USB port is clean, do a system reset or 30 sec full power down.
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2 Fi SSD15 will fit the space and your budget, are well known and respected SQ subwoofers.
Nate, this is true, just a tad out of reach. I say run 2 SA-15's in that box on your current amp it should be fine. You can get them for a really good price.
Right, they are $24 overbudget each but worth every penny for a 1KW rated SQ Sub.
Will overtake the SAs in SQ.
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2 Fi SSD15 will fit the space and your budget, are well known and respected SQ subwoofers.
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thank u guys so much i dont feel dumb for asking and now i can start building my box i hope it sounds good i will probably do a build log oh and the box is for 1 10 l5 kicker actually i am making 2 boxes its going to be a long console in my silverado cutting up the back seat to make room for it
It's the 2.25 + port displacement + driver displacement and that's the internal volume of the box not the external.
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do you seriously believe those 6.5s will be able to make a clean transition at 45hz?
ive never met a 140 db front stage.
maybe i didn't make myself clear but he wants the higher notes to be strongest because 45-50hz hurts people more than 20-30hz does.
what we are going to try is subs forward port up. one sub on each side and port in the center. what tuning should i try?
I am just saying that the front stage is massively underpowered and judging the performance of a system setup like that is not the way to go regardless.
So I would recommend something like this:
6 cuft@38 Hz
And as before power properly the coaxes.
This is to go straight to 40-50, the suggestion by Ray above will be a more balanced approach.
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So the model for your subs on your box specs and on a slightly above average cabin looks like this:
Input power is per sub.
It does peak but is not declining that fast into the midbass region, Of course this is not measured data but it doesn't show anything particularily unusual.
To the very least you need a 50W RMS/channel amp to those coaxes just to try to even out response regardless of the peaking issue, you are delivering to them 14-16W on HU power.
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Ok so what are the rest of the speakers on that silverado (and the amps for all speakers).
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So it says that you have Hertz ESK 130, that's a 5" components, those usually start to kick in at 80-100Hz I'd say your gap is upper in frequency also, after all you said you tuned high and it didn't fix it looks more a gap in the 50-90 Hz region and not much below.
I don't think going bandpass will help you with your problem, do you know for real the exact specs of the box you are using now??
help box design?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
It's best having the port in the same surface as the subs, you can try aiming the firing up, back and front to see how do you like it better. In separate chamber trunks usually front firing is best, also you should let the port have some breathing room in front of it, best two times it's width.