Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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3 minutes ago, Big Tex db said:
Yes. And I think I see where that question is leading to. Going to go double check a couple things real quick.
That a very low voltage with your alt running, if you rev up the engine and you still see 13V or so then you are almost not charging the battery, resting voltage usually is 12.5 - 12.8V and the alt should be sourcing the 14.4 or so.
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9 hours ago, Big Tex db said:
Understood. Second sub, big 3, bigger alt, and new box supplies getting ordered today.
I've read (on F150 forums) that these trucks stock alternators handle 3k watts pretty well.
test tone from tone generator app - silent to full tilt
30hz 13.04V to 12.86V
40hz 13.04V to 12.9V
50hz 13.04V to 12.2V
60hz 13.04V to 12.25V
In any case they specify rated power @ 14.4V so your amp is not sourcing anywhere near rated power.
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You don't run a 2500W amp (specially full bridge) on stock electrical, to test this connect a voltage gauge at your amp power terminals, turn up your volume, if you see that voltage drop as you turn the volume up there is for the most part your problem, the other thing is that every 3dB of gain you need twice the power so at 2000W you will be just barely louder than 1000W and to gainthe same 3dB at 2000W you will need 4000W crazy watts, that is why power is not your first option to get loud, cone area is.
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That's too little fire power to get windy or anything like that, you can put the same subs in a small car and improve just a bit. Vehicles that get windy are on the thousands of watts and many high displacement / cone area subs.
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If your only complaint is the tun on/off thumps that's 100% solvable and it hasn't anything to do with your wire gauge or your batteries, those problems are generally solved by at least two means:
1) delay the turn on signal going to the amp or amps.
2) delay the amplifier connection to the speakers/subs by means of the use of a relay.
There are already commercial devices available to do the above fixes.
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Here are a number of options for a single amp 6 channel:
The AudioControl LC-6.1200 will do 200 watts rms x 6 at 2 ohm.
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Ok, that amps puts out nearly 2K at 1 or 2 ohm, it has been tested with the SMD AD-1 and is in the power range of your subs, Only if you have thoroughly checked your electrical, wiring, box design, gain settings to be perfect then you can look for another amp to see if your amp is under performing for some reason.
To me your box is in the smaller side 2.25 to 2.5 net with 35 square inches per driver is what you should have.
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Your box is in the small side and I don't know how you connect your D4 subs since the cxa amp you have is only 2 ohm stable.
On the E1500.1 it is a sound quality amp, you only have some daily subs, so probably it's abilities won't benefit you at all, to me you need more power, for example a skar rp-2000.1d which is only about $220 will move those subs like you want.
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On 5/14/2024 at 7:57 PM, Jeremy134322 said:
I’ve looked around tons of websites and port calculators etc. I either get a really short Aeroport and then the sq inches of port per cube don’t add up to me. I’m looking to tune 32-35hz. My box is currently sealed and about 9.7 cubes after subs. I have 2 L7 15s and they’re firing up in my extended cab truck with 1/0 power/ground with 10guage speaker wire running off a hifonics Zeus 3200.1
I’m just curious if I need 2 6” ports at 16” length or what my brain is fried
Do a slot port with 100 sqin of port area, 9 net volume.
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With a small scope you could compare the 0 dB tone with the tracks you have, might explain what you are experiencing.
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On 5/14/2024 at 4:24 PM, Cashdollar2009 said:
This is for a 12" DC Audio Elite XL.
I believe I have about 14" from port exit to the rear seats.
This is going in a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500.
Your box seems to be dual 0.75 layer all around except for the bottom, how can your box width be 14 and your port width be 12.5?
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I am talking about a sealed sub enclosure which is completely closed and air cannot go in or out of the enclosure:
Your sub seems optimized to work in a sealed enclosure however it may be possible to use in ported, the advantage with ported is that is much louder for the same power as a sealed would be.
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You got it working so that's nice, you need to properly install your amp though, it might get damaged like that, otherwise looks good, it's playing pretty loud from what can bee seen.
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The sub parameters make it ideally suited for sealed, nonetheless it looks like it would work in ported but they offer no Xmax parameter so I can only speculate.
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I came up with a shared port design which is approximately what you intended to do in size and performance. Subs up in trunk cars is not recommended due to heavy trunk lid rattling, if you choose to do the subs up just do the cutouts in the top wall instead.
The other thing to comment is that many european vehicles have almost air tight trunks, that would result in reduced performance, if removing your rear seats results in you being able to see the trunk, you are ok but if you see just metal, it can be a problem.
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So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide:
NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
NOTE: for increased performance subs and port should be firing rearwards.
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On 4/23/2024 at 12:46 PM, Mikefenzel92 said:
Can i change my d4 sundown sav2 to a d1 and be ok?
It comes down to the minimum stable impedance your amp support, for a D1 wired in parallel you would need a 0.5 ohm stable amp.
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For RF you can go with a larger net volume than suggested and tuning should be within 30-35Hz, subs up / port back for your type of vehicle, something like in the figure below:
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The port in the middle (shared port) adds displacement because there are two non common walls instead of one of the side port design. Besides you don't say what skar subs or power or vehicle you are running which are also important in deciding a design.
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That is superb work sir, it reminds me of how this forum was back in it's heyday. If anything I would remove some of the damping material close to the port inner ends as it may affect performance and tuning somewhat, something like 2-3 inches each side.
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Most head units clip a bit but you set your amplifier gains so that you get all the output of your system before you reach the volume level at which the head unit clips.
While learning to setup your system gains properly (with a DD-1 or a cheap little scope) is what you likely need, it wouldn't hurt to get a modern head unit with a better DAC and higher line level outputs voltage, your really old head unit has only 2 Volt, you can get a 4 volt head unit just by not going for the cheapest bottom of the line head unit and those will still be reasonably inexpensive.
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There is a thread for that:
Say it should be around 40 Hz but if your box is for music and not burps, you don't want to tune close to resonance, it will likely make your system pretty bad. Your subs are for daily not competition.
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Your box probably is hitting the car resonant frequency and may be oversized to show muddiness and showing a sharp drop at higher bass.
It is interesting that you provide no box specs, you see it doesn't matter much that the enclosure sound normal in another car.
Also don't see what is your system, models for the speakers, amps etc.
You provide no pictures to document your tests, etc.
Even if you have an acoustics problem, there should be a way to work around the issues even if that means try different components, etc.
Custom Enclosure Designers
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Sundown has a design for the Zv6 (by the same designer) it is 2.5 net tuned to 32Hz and 35.75 square inches of port area and double layer 0.75 wood all around so for two subs it's 5 cubes net @32Hz with 71.5 square inches of port area, you just need to layout according to the vehicle you have. For a trunk car that would be subs firing back, port firing back or sideways.