Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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Sundown X8v4 are probably the best they will take 1000W RMS each and hit the lows like no other 8" sub can.
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That's an awesome box but for an SUV! If you want to help with the roof flex then subs forward / port sideways.
The 8" pipe has an area of about 50 square inches so no good.
I would test the Sundowns in that box just to know where you are at against the XFLs and the net volume, if they are overly peaky then smaller box but I am betting you are used to the large boxes sound.
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That box is larrer than recommended for Sundown U 15s but so is for the XFLs LOL.
Just swap them and see how it goes, port area is more than enough, if you find them too peaky is a matter of reducing the Net volume, there are many ways to do it like using blocks of polystyrene.
When using large boxes one just need to setup the subsonic filter right and paying attention with power, you need yo keep within Xmax for the long term reliability of the subs.
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You're welcome, 48 square inches of port area should be fine, the box should be 0.75 x 4 = 3 cubic feet net, A 3 common wall slot port 33.4 inches in length would tune you to about 33Hz.
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You are using max net volume and will go above rated power, I'd use at least the 12 square inches of port area per driver, Haven't modeled those subs yet though.
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Whatever happens with your car audio project you will end up a sketchup expert!
As for the question, high tuning makes you louder but less able to play properly certain types of music like rap and such, more so with small woofers which usually struggle a bit more with the lower notes BUT if you play madonna or classic rock you are not affected by higher tuning.
If you listen to all types of music you want a tuning in the lower 30s, when space is concern I always suggest 34Hz, it plays very much like 32Hz but saves a lot of box volume due to the shorter port length.
You should also factor in what is the proper port area for the power you are using which seems to be above rated now that you left one sub out, Maybe 12 square inches per sub will be enough or maybe not, one needs to see with modeling software, sure enough with that kerf you will avoid most port noise but overall port efficiency gets impacted by port area.
Really when you are trying to do a small box is when a design becomes challenging, One needs to pick the right compromises, sometimes it's better to lose some space, I say a wider box doesn't hurt the usability of the trunk. As always this is just food for the thought.
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Sounds like an old problem..LOL BUT yes, you could probably have 3 DC audio level 5e 12s on 15 K in that space and have an edge over what you have right now.
Actually you could maybe have 4 DCL5e 12s on 20K, they only use 1.5 cubic feet net each.
In any case I don't know how healthy is for your 15s is staying boxed for years and years, might want to ask Fi about that.
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5" speakers usually lack lower mid bass so that's normal, you should use speakers as large as you can mount, usually that is 6.5", to find what fits your car, visit the following link:
https://www.crutchfield.com/car/carselector.aspx?lp=%2fcar%2foutfitmycar%2fmycar.aspx
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start with these:
Set your bass boost to the zero position
Set your high pass filter to the tuning of the box
Go through a gain setting procedure
make sure the box has no leaks and that the sub is well seated.
Even at 4 ohm that amp can put out almost 5K, the sub is only 2000W so plenty of chances of over powering.
Lastly post your box design with dimensions of all parts internal and external, i will check the design for you to see if something is wrong.
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Really you don't want a ratio higher than 6:1 (say 6 inches wide and 1 inch tall or 6 inches tall and 1 wide for example) going from 20:1 to a 10:1 is not going to help a thing and also using two (or more) ports by itself is less efficient than using one so that divider idea would just make things worse. I am probably a bit annoying now but it's better to know this things, rebuilding a failed enclosure is very frustrating not to mention the ruined wood and effort.
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Look I have no crystal ball, I just did an analysis that show chances are quite low, if you can find a video showing two 15s 14 mm Xmax 1000-1500W each doing a decent hair trick in a setup similar to what you intend to do then it might be possible in your case but if you don't have any evidence that you will succeed better not waste time and money, Just go by the numbers, those systems that do good hair tricks are always high cone area, high Xmax and high power 8-10K and up, you know just do your homework, for each successful project there are dozens of failed systems and it's kind of sad to see people putting a lot time and effort to end up not getting the results they wanted.
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That calculator usually fails on the safe side giving you a load of port area (some of which you probably don't need) so I am sure it will be fine.
The sub is peaky and the bigger than suggested box will help with that so if you are leaning on SPL side you will probably like it .
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Thin port don't work at all check out the following thread:
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This is what I consider a legit video of 2 15" on 9K:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWVJfTvwftY
If you found that hair trick "decent" lets see how much volume is displaced:
Zv5 15:
Sd = 726.7
Xmax = 35
Vd = 2.543
So about 5 liters of air being displaced through the window were enough for that hair trick to happen, lets see those subs of yours driven as best as possible:
Sq HDS3.1 15:
Sd = 776
Xmax = 14
Vd = 1.087
So at most you could displace about 2 liters of air through your window.
That is 60% less than in the video,
So those 15s of yours in my estimation would get some hair movement but nothing more, at least on conditions similar to the video.
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Your vehicle is good for the application due to having a small cabin, A wall having 4 15" high Xmax subs and power of 8-10 K likely should give you decent hair tricks rather easy, But you are far from having such a system.
As for amps to buy I am sure that Taramps would be a good fit and they are very inexpensive BUT you need an electrical system to match which will be very expensive, really expensive.
Honestly they are less expensive ways to move hair, if you don't have the financial support and the time to make it happen better do something else, Your two 15s you are installing will sound fine and be loud but it will be rather hard for such equipment to do hair tricks
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Yes, exactly as you say the lower impedance one will get twice the power, Not worth knowing why, better just consider that as a fact and find a solution around it, anyways I leave you a link if you just have to know:
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/accircuits/power-in-ac-circuits.html
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There is no way you can wire together two subs of different impedance that each will receive the same power, you can only exchange one of the subs so that both have the same impedance.
In your case that the amp is stereo you could just balance to power match but it would not be optimal.
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Don't get me wrong, not saying it will not meet your expectations is just that they list the parameters incomplete and lie about Xmax so that it gives better impression that what is worth,, don't like companies doing that, awesome products never lie or hide stuff from the customer.
Anyways let us know how you liked it when you have it running, the suggested box is 2 cubic feet new tuned to 32 and a port area of 31 square inches (low imo).
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That 38 mm Xmax it says it has must be peak to peak I believe the real Xmax will be 19 mm, Just look at a sub that has real high Xmax, large surround and tall motor,
Never judge any tech by specs alone, price is more indicative of what it is, I am pretty sure you are getting what you pay for with that one, no more.
Sorry to insist but if you really want an edge on getting louder, do a 15, box is only a little over a cube more than a 12 and you can get 3-4 dB louder on the same power.
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If you wanted to run that amp two 10s was the thing to do, likely the same cone area. But if you now have 3 8s use them all they have pretty low cone area, you can upgrade to a SIA 3500 if the 2500 is lacking. 8s to me are only worth using in under seat boxes for extcab trucks.
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Your other option is subs / port up close to the rear gate and use the trunk space between the box and the rear seats.
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Two things, not clear on how much clearance you have for the port but is about as much as it's width what it needs also the leftmost sub is in an potentially unloading position.
Also nothing prevents you from putting your stuff over the box in the other design, is not like you lost your trunk like you say unless you were aiming the subs up but that's not the case. The slanted box would need grilles for the subs to avoid damage when you put stuff in the trunk.
Lastly those subs are 1000W RMS each a 2500W amp is almost as underpowering them.
Still congrats on you testing and planning nice effort.
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8 hours ago, EaZy304 said:
Im asking do you think that would be to much for the application its going into. Also if that would be a decent sub/amp combo. The sub is rated for 2000rms the amp is 2500 rms@2ohm.
You would probably need an alternator upgrade and a battery upgrade, other than that I don't see a problem.
As far as the parts go I think both kicker and rockford fosgate are extremely expensive, also if you are looking for sound quality you have many options other than kicker which are really aimed at SPL, at least you should try to audition the sub and see if it's the kind of sound you are looking for, many people like kicker sound .Also you can build your own enclosure and save a whole lot, No problem to get a quality prefab as long as the specs of the box are right for what you are trying to achieve.
So if you don't mind spending a lot more than necessary and don't mind to be on the SPL side of things then you are good to go.
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Nice sketches, in my opinion:
1) use the last box style as it will be louder due to the subs being closer to the rear end of the vehicle, use double layer baffle and a lot of bracing as these are higher end 8s.
2) use a constant power amp of the power you intend to run including the Sundown SIA series or just get a more powerful amp so that you can still get your desired power at 1.3 ohm, power is cheap these days so that shouldn't be a problem.
3) call Sundown for box specs or wait for them to come out before building anything so that you don't have to rebuild a box.
Great work, hopefully you will build log and review those subs, should be interesting.
American Bass XFL 1222 trying to wire to 1 ohm load.
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Connect like this:
If you connected like above and get 2 Ohm probably your sub is a D4.