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Posts posted by Joe X
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I had two sa-8 v.1 in my truck. Then I got 2 sa-12 in my tc and they take my whole trunk. So i'm just looking for something to hold me over till the x-8s finally come out. Just want to check which would be the best to use.
If you are looking to save space then yes at least two 8"s, two 10s will give you about 43% of extra cone area and will only cost you about 0.8 cubes of extra of net volume. Depends on your goals.
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You have space for 12s back there, I wouldn't do 8s more so if you are thinking of upgrading later.
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Fix the black on dark grey man, on your question you don't mention the vehicle, power, don't provide a sketch of your plan, and you are using a really inaccurate calculator... welcome to SMD!
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So here is a suggestion to 750W RMS for the SA-8v2, depending on your specific vehicle you may probably want different port/sub aimings:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 34.5 Hz
Vb = 0.66 ft^3
External Height = 9.5 in
External Width = 21.25 in
External Depth = 13.25 in
Port Width = 1 3/8 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front & Back = 21 1/4 x 9 1/2
Left & Right Sides = 11 3/4 x 8
Top & Bottom = 21 1/4 x 11 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 10 3/8 x 8
Extension = 16 1/4 x 8
Extension 2 = 3 1/8 x 8Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Important notes:
- Setting your amp subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested.- 1
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I was toying with the thought of getting two matching sets of coaxial car speakers and making some cabinets for them out of either 1/2 or 3/4 mdf to hook up to a home theatre receiver. For example, two 6.5" speakers per cabinet, wired in series for 8 ohms. I'm not looking for great bang for the buck, just thought it might be a fun project. Speakers would just be going in my dirty basement powered off a lower end Sony receiver.
Anyone ever tried anything like this? Any red flags with this idea?
Thanks!
Most car audio speakers are designed to work on a infinite baffle setting so if you box them try to make the box on the large side to get the most from them. Other than that they will work fine wired in series as you say.
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Here is a suggestion, 2K RMS limit and had to go to 15.5H hope you can fit that :
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 33 Hz
Vb = 3 ft^3
External Height = 15.5 in
External Width = 33.5 in
External Depth = 19 in
Port Width = 3 3/4 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 33 1/2 x 15 1/2
Left & Right Sides = 16 3/4 x 14
Top & Bottom = 33 1/2 x 16 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 13 x 14
Extension = 16 1/2 x 14
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Subsonic filter to 27 Hz. Let me know any questions.
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like i said im bad with computers LOL
and im not positive on how to download it.... :fail:
Just click "File" and then "download as", choose the format of the spreadsheet and that's all.
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umm.... its locked
It's the Sanitarium's spreadsheet if I am not mistaken, is just that I didn't have an address for it, you should download it to use it. It is a very accurate calculator.
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I have a question about the port, where it says
extension 1 x 14 1/2
What does that mean?
Updated the sketch, extension is the length of the port after it turns. In this case is so small that it can be left out without causing a significant change in tuning.
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You can run Torres on mac just download virtualbox and get a copy of windows. That's all you need.
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Just ordered one for my wifes car, yes I know... She gotta start somewhere. I need a basic ported box for it. Its a d4 and will be running off a Kicker ZX 500.1 @ 2ohms. Need around 0.75cubes @32 hz. Trunk dimensions are not needed being this is a small ass box as it is and its going in a 2003 Buick park avenue so she has plenty of room for it AND groceries!
Here is a suggestion done on your specs:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32 Hz
Vb = 0.75 ft^3
External Height = 9.5 in
External Width = 21.25 in
External Depth = 14 in
Port Width = 1 1/2 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front = 19 x 8
Back = 21 1/4 x 8
Left & Right Sides:
Side 1 = 12 1/2 x 8
Side 2 = 13 1/4 x 8
Top & Bottom = 21 1/4 x 14
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 11 x 8
Extension = 16 x 8
Extension 2 = 6 1/4 x 8
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Let me know any questions.
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The RE calc is off.
For a side firing port:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32 Hz
Vb = 4.68 ft^3
External Height = 30 in
External Width = 30 in
External Depth = 16 in
Port Width = 14 1/2 in
Port Height = 5 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 30 x 16
Left & Right Sides =
Side 1 = 22 3/4 x 14 1/2
Side 2 = 27 3/4 x 14 1/2
Front & Back = 30 x 27 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Side to Side = 23 1/2 x 14 1/2
Extension = 1 x 14 1/2
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
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anybody else care to chime in with some helpful how to on porting my box ? i am really clueless as to what i should tune for to get the best overall sound out of my sub set up .
What is that you don't like about it's sound?
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OP check this:
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What I would like to know is why you are limited to those dimensions.
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That's awesome Joe X
My only concern is......2 12" subs that are 12.5" each overall diameter = 25" + a 5" port width....means the subs would be right next to one another on top of the port.
The sketch is generic, they do fit very tightly one towads the front one towards the back.
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So here is a suggestion:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32 Hz
Vb = 4.5 ft^3
External Height = 30 in
External Width = 30 in
External Depth = 16 in
Port Width = 5 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 30 x 16
Left & Right Sides = 14 1/2 x 27 3/4
Front & Back = 30 x 27 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Top to Bottom = 22 3/4 x 14 1/2
Extension = 3 x 14 1/2
Assembly guide (generic dimensions):
Crossbraces are 1.5" diameter, let me know any questions.
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What subs are going in that enclosure?
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14'' h 17''d 32'' w --- port is 11 3/4'' h 3 1/2'' w but has a 1/2'' board in the midd of the port to split the sub up so like 1 1/2'' w on the port for each sub.... this is what he said.Measure the external dimensions as well as the port dimensions and then post those and people can tell you the real specs, having said that you don't want to use those prefab enclosures in most cases. Subs work best in enclosures designed specifically for them and solidly built.
14 x 32x 17 gives a gross internal volume of 3.42 less if there is a double baffle and to that you have to take away sub and port displacement, so NO 4 cubes net possible.
And you are not giving the centerline length of the port or the port parts length so can't calc tuning.
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Measure the external dimensions as well as the port dimensions and then post those and people can tell you the real specs, having said that you don't want to use those prefab enclosures in most cases. Subs work best in enclosures designed specifically for them and solidly built.
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Thanks guys, helps a lot. Ill be sure to get a pic of the set up out as soon as i get it together.
Just WoofersEtc is rather expensive you can get those amps cheaper elsewhere.
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What's your budget.
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Sorry, these are swr-1042d type-r's.
2-500 rms
1500 peak.
Changed the above for 2 x SWR-1042D, hope you understand the kind of amp power you are dealing with, set the subsonic filter to 30-31 Hz.
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In b4 45s are overrated.
You said it first!
Need help with ports. (zv3 18)
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
Posted
I would setup the software for ported.