Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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I was told by kevin himself since i am running almost dbl rms, to go 2.5Cu
That's to prevent it from bottoming out. Some modelling may help you. Also you have checked sub,/port up but the port height suggests the idea was sub front/port up.
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That's the net volume for sealed...
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Some speaker terminals here:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i456_box-terminals.html
Place in the opposite side of where the port is located, if you can't do angled cuts just don't do any of the 45s, just glue and screw the panels and you are done. The flush mount is done adding a baffle layer with the cutout the size of the overall diameter of the sub.
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or a dc
Level 4 or 5?
The Q and the DC work in larger enclosures ( about 6 cubes and above) the Zv.3 works in 4-5 cubes that's a big difference when lacking space, if going with those other brands better a couple of 12s which will fit in 4.5-5 cubes comfortably but two subs will cost more and need more power.
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If you have not rounded the corner and not done the 45 in the port turn, never mind it will work regardless.
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The chaos of course (if you are willing to pay the premium).
I would also suggest Fi SSD which is about $200.. superb stuff.
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How big (at the widest point) should the 45 be? I hope you understand what I mean.
Example: should I take a 3" strip of wood and 45 it?
Do you understand what I'm asking?
If you slant the inner corner of the turn as shown the 45 should be done as follows:
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Can anyone answer my question? I've never built a box with an L port or with 45's. If the port is 3 3/8" wide, does it need to be 3 3/8" wide at the turn?
Yes slant or round the inner corner of the turn is recommended, if you are to put a 45 there, you need to make sure is not made too big, the port has to be 3 3/8" AT the turn also.
EDIT: if you find hard to make 45s just don't do them, is an optimization only, if don wrong can hurt not help performance. If you have any other questions let me know.
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Thanks Joe x! your a big help around here. Its nice to see it drawn out on paper rather then in my head. One last question, on a port in the center how do I toal up my length when it 't's on the back wall? If I need, lets say, 10" more do I split 5" one way and 5" the other? I have never done a centerport, just ones on the side. Im going to get building this enclosure asap.
Right but it's all already done in the cutsheet, look at the bottom and you will find: "Shared port internal assembly parts" section, just cut the 4 parts and assemble like in the figure, when it's done you will notice that the width of the port halves in the lateral ducts. You may want to draw the cutsheet to verify this. If you are doing the center deflector let me know to give you the dimensions of the parts, all other 45s are 2 1/2" wide.
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I modeled that sub and you will get a lot of group delay with them, if you want even frequency response and low group delay you will have to go sealed (even if RE does not recommend that since you will loose lots of output) otherwise go for a 6 cube per sub ported box (double baffle at least), that will limit somewhat it peaking and will slightly reduce group delay, will also cost you output though.
Separate chambers will grow the size of your ports and therefore the size of your box and will not improve transient response, if the box is sealed then the box size stays the same except for the displacement of the center divider.
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i think i might go with 2 12s. and maybe i could squeeze a bandpass box out of it? ill post some measurements asap. But in the mean time.. what pair of 12s would you recomend? Audio que? Sundown? DC Audio?
A single Sundown NSv2 18" or Zv3 18" can fit the box size you already have there and will laugh at your current sub. Will overtake the cone surface area of two 12s. Anyways some pic of your stuff would be nice.
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You want it far form the internal end of the port, I would place it as shown, in low depth boxes the sub placement can become really important.
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Ok the first step is getting the max dimensions for the box, also some comments on your musical tastes.
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Hey guys Im going for an all around system I want to put a 10 inch through my ski pass in my BMW e46 convertible. Here is what the setup will look like and the specs....
e46 10 inch box measurements 23.5cm (9.25 inches) deep, 25cm (9.85 inches) high. the depth can be as deep as i want it. using 18 mm MDF and silicone sealant
heres what its going to look like...
http://www.ebay.co.u...8#ht_500wt_1037
I am going to run a SAZ-1000D - Sundown Audio Monoblock 1000W for my setup
WHICH SUB SHOULD I GO FOR? WHICH WILL BE KNOCKING WITH THE CONVERTIBLE TOP DOWN?
It says it takes a single 8" sub.
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Originally drawn for more powerful subs, have replaced 15" CVR displacement and the result is as follows:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 35.8 Hz
Vb = 8.6 ft^3
External Height = 18 in
External Width = 44 in
External Depth = 30.75 in
Port Width = 8 3/4 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 44 x 30 3/4
Left & Right Sides = 29 1/4 x 15 3/4
2x Front = 17 5/8 x 15 3/4
Back = 44 x 15 3/4
Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:
2 x Front to Back = 18 3/4 x 15 3/4
45s are 3" wide, the box gives you an upgrade path if you decided to upgrade.
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If you don't do the 45s, which you can, is fairly simple, Home Depot can do all cuts but the cuts in the baffle which can be done with a cheap jigsaw.
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Ok here is a suggestion:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 34 Hz
Vb = 3.82 ft^3
External Height = 16 in
External Width = 42 in
External Depth = 16 in
Port Width = 3 1/2 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Top & Bottom = 42 x 16
Left & Right Sides = 14 1/2 x 14 1/2
Front & Back = 42 x 14 1/2
Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:
2 x Top to Bottom = 12 3/4 x 14 1/2
2 x Extension = 6 3/8 x 14 1/2
Let me know any questions.
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Here is a suggestion for a single Fi Q 12":
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 32 Hz
Vb = 2 ft^3
External Height = 14 in
External Width = 31 in
External Depth = 16 in
Port Width = 2 1/2 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 31 x 14
Left & Right Sides = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2
Top & Bottom = 31 x 13 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 11 1/4 x 12 1/2
Extension = 19 1/4 x 12 1/2
Let me know any questions.
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Not necessary, just try to round or slant a bit the port corner if possible.
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Here is a suggestion for your IVX15:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 34 Hz
Vb = 3.5 ft^3
External Height = 16 in
External Width = 37 in
External Depth = 17 in
Port Width = 3 3/8 in
Cut Sheet List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
Front = 32 7/8 x 14 1/2
Back = 37 x 14 1/2
Left & Right Sides:
Side 1 = 15 1/2 x 14 1/2
Side 2 = 16 1/4 x 14 1/2
Top & Bottom = 37 x 17
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 12 1/8 x 14 1/2
Extension = 8 x 14 1/2
Let me know any questions.
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Nice so you are keeping the back seats up and you are 17" deep.. that the plan right?
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What a pic of the boot
just a shot from the back hatch open, yours or a link of something exactly like it.
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I put the max dimensions I can have in my first post I'm new to this and wanted to have my box mad this saterday
Do you have a pic of the vehicle's interior?
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Post the max dims for the box, subs up / port back will get you better results than port/subs up.
I guess I didn't design it right
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted · Edited by Joe X
You are also at 1" from the sidewall so the port length is 44" so tuned a bit lower.