Joe X
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Posts posted by Joe X
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Your other option is subs / port up close to the rear gate and use the trunk space between the box and the rear seats.
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Two things, not clear on how much clearance you have for the port but is about as much as it's width what it needs also the leftmost sub is in an potentially unloading position.
Also nothing prevents you from putting your stuff over the box in the other design, is not like you lost your trunk like you say unless you were aiming the subs up but that's not the case. The slanted box would need grilles for the subs to avoid damage when you put stuff in the trunk.
Lastly those subs are 1000W RMS each a 2500W amp is almost as underpowering them.
Still congrats on you testing and planning nice effort.
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8 hours ago, EaZy304 said:
Im asking do you think that would be to much for the application its going into. Also if that would be a decent sub/amp combo. The sub is rated for 2000rms the amp is 2500 rms@2ohm.
You would probably need an alternator upgrade and a battery upgrade, other than that I don't see a problem.
As far as the parts go I think both kicker and rockford fosgate are extremely expensive, also if you are looking for sound quality you have many options other than kicker which are really aimed at SPL, at least you should try to audition the sub and see if it's the kind of sound you are looking for, many people like kicker sound .Also you can build your own enclosure and save a whole lot, No problem to get a quality prefab as long as the specs of the box are right for what you are trying to achieve.
So if you don't mind spending a lot more than necessary and don't mind to be on the SPL side of things then you are good to go.
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Nice sketches, in my opinion:
1) use the last box style as it will be louder due to the subs being closer to the rear end of the vehicle, use double layer baffle and a lot of bracing as these are higher end 8s.
2) use a constant power amp of the power you intend to run including the Sundown SIA series or just get a more powerful amp so that you can still get your desired power at 1.3 ohm, power is cheap these days so that shouldn't be a problem.
3) call Sundown for box specs or wait for them to come out before building anything so that you don't have to rebuild a box.
Great work, hopefully you will build log and review those subs, should be interesting.
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Without sub specs you should call sundown and get the optimal box specs and go from there.
My only comment is that you might have space for 2 12s in that vehicle which would be far louder, also 3 subs lead to impedance mismatch for most amps, you will need a constant power amp to get the most power form a non standard final impedance, some examples are the Taramps smart series and the rockford fosgate CP series.
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They are slow to publish parameters, recently they do on facebook first from what I have seen.
You can also break in the subs and then measure the params yourself, there are tools for doing that or you can measure manually.
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No parameters for that sub so I can't give you further feedback unless you have them.
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8 net @32Hz , 4x6" ports 33 long each seems ok.
Turning the ports is OK as long as you use fittings.
The question of needing more or not port area depends on power, I imagine Fi gives those numbers for rated power, if you are keeping at or under rates power you should be ok. if you will be running 10-20% over rated power then you may need more port area.
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A given port area for example 37 square inches will guarantee that you won't get port compression (output loss) or port noise in the 0-2500W RMS power range for a tuning of say 33Hz and a net vol of 2,2 cubic feet.
So running less power to a box that is designed to 2500W can't be considered as having excess port area when playing at a given power or have any consequence on how it plays.
Some people use port compression as a part of the design but that is a whole different topic,
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Yes, I am using bassbox pro which you can buy if you want here: https://www.ht-audio.com/pages/BassBoxPro.html
The results are custom to your sub electromechanical parameters that the manufacturer of the sub provides and the stated power and a tuning of 32Hz.
That calculator you are using is ok to use if you have an unknown subwoofer that you don't have any data on and you want an estimated port area to go by rather than picking a random number.
But as you can see it can lead to ridiculous results, if you did 59 square inches of port area the port would need to be extremely long and that would lead to poor performance and you could also get port resonances which absolutely you don't want,
I absolutely recommend going with the 2500W port area, about 35-38 square inches not the 1500W set.
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Ok the proper port area based on the T/S parameters of that sub to get less than 25 m/s of port airspeed is as follows:
At 2500W RMS power :
2.0 cubic feet = 35 square inches of port area.
2.5 cubic feet = 37 square inches of port area.
At 1500 W RMS power:
2.0 cubic feet = 28 square inches of port area.
2.5 cubic feet = 30 square inches of port area.
I recommend to use the full power port area spec because at some point you may want or be able to run that power and you don't want the box to lose dBs due to low port area.
Also you should consider no less than 3/4 wood, double layer for the baffle and strong cross bracing for your box.
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What sub model are you going to use and how many subs?
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Proper box spec for a subwoofer is not only is defined by net internal airspace and tuning but also PORT AREA, that information you can find from the sub manufacturer or if not you need to calculate it. SO...
Those under seat enclosures usually have LOW port area and LOW mounting depth for the sub or subs and generally are poor performers, made mainly for lower power low mounting depth subs.
Probably would do a couple of 500W 10" subs, is what would expect to work there and no need for more than a 1500W amp to run them. That is mainly due to the low port area those boxes usually have (and never specify to the customer).
Finally there are many subs not just sundown and SSA, SSA like the big boxes, there are many SQ subs working in smaller enclosures.
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Entering those dimensions and assuming you used 3/4 wood and using a 10 long 3" port I get 2.1 cubic feet net or 0.35 cubic feet per driver, they specify 0.12, also one 3" port is 7 square inches of port area for all drivers while CT is asking for 12 square inches PER driver.
Your box is completely off spec.
Also modeling subs parameters reveal those subs will never get decently low in a ported box among other things due to very low Xmax.
So you can go ahead and build the correct box for them and still get all poor low end.
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If you mean higher Fs means it won't get lows, the answer is a single parameter isn't enough information to reach any conclusions.
You need to model the sub in the box you intend to use,
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You can also setup your gains low making sure power delivered is within drivers specs.
No one is to say if that distorted signal will make any difference, It's all about being prepared to prevent a bad outcome.
Much luck and if you have any other questions let us know.
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You can get Brazilian "pro audio" mid woofers with some super bullet tweeters, that will withstand much more power than standard speakers, brands like Timpano, DS18, PRV will serve the purpose, even if you managed blow them they are inexpensive to replace.
As you say it is an odd request so don't ask me if I recommend this or if you will suffer hearing damage from listening loudly to that or not.
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SUV boxes are generally subs up / port back, subs / port forward are for some trunk car designs and walls.
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I don't remember anyone using those subs ever on here. They are rated very low 150W RMS power, People have asked about iDQ and iDMAX series in th 12" size usually.
Looking at the sub params 0.9 cubic feet net will work up to rated power, nothing more and the port area that will need is 3" round port PER driver, if using 2 subs in the same box you can use a single 4" port for both or two 3" ports.
As for if these blend in with the JL comps, I am pretty sure they will, the mid woofer of the splits will reach plenty low being the 6x9 size just pick a 70-80 Hz crossover point.
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On 10/9/2023 at 10:01 PM, linc said:
I’m new here so hello👋 Gonna give you guys some background and details to work with. Just have a few questions and looking for some insight.
-Current setup-
Kenwood DDX73BH HU
Cheap pioneer 6x8 mids from Walmart running off the HU *cringe*
DB Drive WDX 12G2.4
2.6 cu ft box (net) tuned 33hz
Taramps HD3000 @2 ohms currently
Stock 130A alt
95ah AGM second back battery
1/0 OFC power & ground (grounded to the frame)
Voltage is hanging in there sorta, already planning on and most definitely going to be needing a HO alt which is in the works. Second battery is helping me stay alive in the mid 12s voltage for now.
Thinking of getting 2 American Bass XFL1244s and a Taramps Smart 5 as well as building a custom box. 4 channel amp and some proper components are coming in the midst of all of this but that’s easy stuff.-My questions-
Amp has dual + and - inputs, going to run another line of 1/0 + to the back battery then to the amp. Will be pulling roughly 550A of current with the Smart 5. Do the double power runs split the load or will it just more efficiently deliver the power? And do I run 300A fuses on each power wire or will I need to run 600A fuses on each?
Are the American Bass XFLs a good buy and/or are there better out there for the same price or similar?
Is the Smart 5 a good buy and/or is there better out there for the same price that is recommended? Ik I will be technically overpowering the XFLs, but that’s my goal, will have gain set with the DD-1 so I’ll be at a very good power level without wanting to or even getting close to clipping.
Will the second battery and a 320A alt be sufficient?
Where should I run my second ground to? Seat bolt? Stay on the frame? And if I stay on the frame, how far apart do they need to be? Second battery is also grounded to the frame.Your enclosure is completely and totally misdesigned and misplaced and likely the reason your system is not performing as it should.
The best way to get loud is through cone area NOT power, Get 2 15" subs in a correctly designed enclosure instead of 12s and you will see much higher output even if no extra power is added, "Cone area is King" that is no joke.
Also the quality of the subs is extremely important, use subs with strong motors, higher Xmax, higher BL not some weak mini motor subs.
The amplifier and electrical including wiring are chosen AFTER the subs are chosen not before,
The largest amplifier you will need doesn't need to be more than twice the RMS power of your subs, more than that is just wasting money.
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You have grounding issues, check out the video to learn about the different issues:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8dpucdxs6Y
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3 hours ago, wOOtang75 said:
I have a question? I'm running 2 skar Evl d2 12s, with a Taramps smart 3k amp, big 3, upgraded BrandX alternator, Sony Dsx-gs80 head unit. But I feel I'm not getting the bang like I should. Have in slotted port box, in 2000 Yukon Denali .
Regardless of the issues you may have two 12s in such a big vehicle is too little cone area for such a big vehicle, SUVs need at least 2 15s in a highly efficient enclosure to get decently loud.
Of course if your enclosure is bad and / or your installation / settings are no good performance will be bad regardless of what you own.
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If you want to experiment more those modules are only a bunch of resistors even if they sometimes are packaged to look like a chip, you can make those modules yourself to any frequency you want, audiocontrol keeps a pdf that tells you what resistor values you need.
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Such an old device that used those pfm pluggable resistor packs, who would trust a non soldered connection maybe 40 years old.
The subsonic in the epicenter should be enough in theory even if they are 18dB/octave only but using the amp SSF as a safeguard can't hurt anything. Your call really.
Box Questions for (3) SA x-8 v.4
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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If you wanted to run that amp two 10s was the thing to do, likely the same cone area. But if you now have 3 8s use them all they have pretty low cone area, you can upgrade to a SIA 3500 if the 2500 is lacking. 8s to me are only worth using in under seat boxes for extcab trucks.