Sergeant_Skyrim
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Posts posted by Sergeant_Skyrim
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I could've swore I saw that box build a while back...wouldn't the center one cause cancellation issues?
I'd think it'd only cause cancellation issues if they're angled facing each other. If they're a certain angle apart (let's just say 90 degrees or more) then I think they should be fine. But not sure either, maybe somebody with more knowledge will chime in
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Just because it's been fine since 06 doesn't mean the ground hasn't come loose or something weird. Picture of the setup would help. Like where it's grounded and such. Just to say the gain probably isn't set correctly.
I know that the gain isn't set 100% correctly since it was most likely done by ear, but I can try getting some pics today
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why are you guys arguing with each other, to those who are trying to help me thank you, for those who have someting smart to say your lame , talking shit over the internet come on man, and nine times out ten my money is longer than yours.
Blasphemy, I've got the Monopoly old-timers edition with larger bills for reading convenience. Your typical $100 bill is only just over 6" long, whereas my $1 is 10" long. GOML
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Dude forget all of these idiots. They'll make you waste your money with all their "buy this, buy that, make sure to ground your amp" crap. You don't need to do any of that stuff, just get a good ole Funkypup 12" sub and hook it directly to your headunit. I'd recommend an 8th-order bandpass box as well to maximize the dBs and a flux capacitor for your battery so that you don't melt your car. You should be hitting 150+ dBs in no time man, good luck!
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How small is that box? Seems like barely any vehicle flex at all especially for an 18, I didn't notice if you had any deadener in there or anything either. Reason I say this is because I've got a Cavalier as well and my rear deck flexes just as much (I'm sealed from the trunk though) but I can also get decent seat flex and just noticeable steering wheel flex. Was looking for some flex from your car but didn't notice any =/
EDIT: Forgot to ask if you've metered it yet either, but still looks pretty loud man!
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I have no idea how to even build a box or anything, would'nt know where to start.
Im just going to go with the Kenwood w3013ps's
and I just need help with the help. I need to see what I can do with the box.
That's what I'm saying. I had no idea how to build a box but I just asked on here, learned how to use the Torres Calculator, and went at it. That's pretty much all it'll take man, as long as you're willing to put in a little bit of extra work you'll find the result to be cheaper and more rewarding
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Yeah, I've seen others say it a million times before and I'm gonna agree with the guy above. With this being a low budget build it's really just going to come down to the box. Get a good design depending on what you're looking for (i.e. tune to what type of music you listen to) and you should be happy with the results. I've never built anything in my life, but this past winter break my dad and I built the ported box that I've got now. Sure it looks like crap, but it performs sooooo much better than going with the prefab box I had. And even though some measurements ended up being off, I'm happy with it.
EDIT: I've heard from a couple people that it even sounds pretty good for being 2 Kicker Comps on only 200 watts as well. And that's what the amp is supposed to be rated at, who knows how much power I'm actually seeing. Box made all the difference for me with a low budget
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I just found this, and it sounds like a good deal, for a real low budget system?
I got an MTX prefab enclosure deal back in '06 with 2 12s and a 200 watt (pretty sure they advertised more) amp that all came together. Wasn't really impressed at all, especially since I made the new ported box for them and realized that they used shit wood for their prefab box. If you were to go with this option, I'd definitely recommend building your own box for them as it'll sound much better and shouldn't flex as much (The shit box mine came in flexed like crazy)
All in all, I wouldn't get anything that comes in a prefab box, just save some money and build your own box which will also yield better results soundwise
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I'd personally get the cheapest ones that can take whatever RMS your amp is pushing out just to give you the best bang for your buck. No sense getting subs that can handle more and pay more nor is there any sense to buying cheaper ones that won't be able to handle whatever you're giving them
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I have a kicker cvr 15 dual 4 port box range 3-5 cube
Ok here it is:
Kicker CVR 15" on 3 different boxes:
10cuft@32Hz on green
3cuft@32Hz on orange
1cuft@32Hz on white
Pretty different right??
Didn't see an option to PM you on your profile, so sorry OP if I hijack real quick
Joe, would you be able to do one of those plots for 2 Kicker Comp 12s on 200 watts in a 3.8 ft^3 net tuned to 32Hz? Don't know how much of this info you actually need or if you need more but it'd be much appreciated!
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ok only thing is getting 2 of the 8's will put me at 270 plus i would need a bigger amp.
Sorry, didn't read your $200 budget the first time through. And could anybody explain why you'd need a bigger amp to power them? Is there anything wrong with underpowering your subs at all? But yeah, a DC Level 3 10 might work for you, and I think it's just around $200. And it's rated at 900w RMS so I've read that if you're underpowering then it's okay to go with a slightly larger box than recommended. How much bigger I don't know
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Also want everybody to know that I only bought the Kicker 250.1 from Best Buy so that I could see if it was the amp that's messing up. Although I hooked it up the other day and it sounded like it was still doing the same thing after a little while. So I'm just returning the Kicker amp altogether
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When looking for power and ground wire, you must look at the amp you are using. The rule i go by is " buy and install the largest possible". If the amp can only fir 8 gauge, use 8 gauge, if 4 gauge then 4 gauge, but never any less.
For speaker wire i personally keep it larger than 14 gauge (meaning a smaller number 12, 10, 8, etc.) for any speaker, excluding subwoofers. When picking wire for subwoofers i never go smaller (higher number gauge) than 10 gauge.
A good place to look is Knukonceptz, i love the place. They sell the highest quality product i have used, with few exceptions.
When it comes to wire, there are a few options of quality/make up. Some wire is CCA (copper clad aluminum) where the base wire is aluminum, and it is covered in copper. There is pure copper, which is exactly what it sounds like. And finally there are other various make ups, but CCA and Pure Copper are the most common. CCA is cheaper, pure copper is more expensive, and heavier.
When choosing wire, find a budget, and consider power ratings, and never cut corners. We don't want to hear of anything catching fire of God forbid, anyone getting hurt.
Dude, thank you so much for the clear explanation!
What gauge wire does your amplifier hold? If you still have the box it would tell you on there.
Amp is MTX RTP251D that I've had since '06, just took it all apart this past weekend and still clean as the day it was made.
That 250 is 8 gauge. Buddy had one. There is probably a different reason for you having issues. How are your grounds and how did you gain the amp? Bass boost on or off? Did you just ground the amp to the closest spot you could without scrapping the paint off?
I haven't changed amp settings since I've had it in '06. Dad set the gain and grounded it, and I've never once had a problem with any of this for the past 6ish years. Only reason the original MTX subs that came as part of the enclosure blew is because I was a dumbass noob and thought I could go 62/62 on the volume lol. Bass boost off.
That 250 is 8 gauge. Buddy had one. There is probably a different reason for you having issues. How are your grounds and how did you gain the amp? Bass boost on or off? Did you just ground the amp to the closest spot you could without scrapping the paint off?I would agree with this, but im not exactly sure why that would make it "Muddy" trying to get a feel for what he means by that. Cutting out, lower frequency, what?
I have trouble explaining it mainly because now it's playing fine, hasn't messed up since Sunday morning when I drove back out here to campus. And even then I kept it at my normal playing volume of 47/62 (75% of the max headunit volume) cuz it's to the point where I figure I'll listen at my normal volume til something breaks. I think it tends to happen easier at lower frequencies (box is tuned to 32Hz btw) but I can't be sure because whenever I try to reproduce the problem it never friggin' happens which really pisses me off the most.
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I'd personally do the 2 8s as to maximize cone area and fully utilize all the available space you have
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so budget i wanna keep the sub under or close to $200
dems:
34 w
9 h
12 d
it will probably be ported if i have the room
So basically 32.5W x 7.5H x 10.5D after .75 MDF displacement? If so that'd leave just under 1.5 cubes net so scratch my 4th order idea
You could actually do the 2 SA 8's in their recommended .6 ft^3 per sub ported box @ 30Hz
EDIT: Anybody notice the typo of .8 ft^3 displacement per SA-8?
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Also, what are your actual dimensions? You wouldn't want to have the sub firing from the sealed section directly into the port. That would cause unloading issues from what I've read
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I need to find a sub or 2 that gets loud but box size is an issue. i have a max of 1.7 cubes so im thinking a 10 or 2 8's? 10 is the max i can go in diameter. im going to be upgrading amps depending on the subs i get, my current amp is a Alpine MRP-500 500rms @ 2ohm im welcome to any suggestions just nothing ridiculous.
Maybe a DC Level 3 10" in a 4th order? You most likely wouldn't get a 2:1 ratio, but a smaller ratio would make it more musical if I'm remembering correctly.
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How about this beast? http://www.sonicelec...-ATX1600.2.html
not a beast at all. 40 amps of fusing on the amps means it cant do more than 400w, at best. never, never, never, never go by MAX ratings. always go by RMS.
you will not find a true 1000w amp in your price range. maybe at $200, used. is your power supply 1000w?
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Says which design I only see one
So I will be using my new 10 15" Obsidians and am debating how I want the lay out of the subs. I will either be doing 4 on each side firing at each other with the baffles being on an angle and then having two subs in the very back firing forward or just do 5 subs per baffle on each side. Obviously both I will make sure have the proper airspace. I would like to put the two in the very back just because I would like the looks of that but just what opinions, pros/cons?
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I'm now looking into replacing all of my existing wiring, and I don't know much about the different types, etc. So I'm wondering what type of wire would be the best in each connection. Like from amp->ground, what type of wire should I get for that, from amp->subs what type of wire for that connection would be best, and so on.
For now I'd just like to know what the best gauge (I think it's called) wire is for each individual connection, and maybe some estimates on total pricing to replace every wire. I know this might be hard, but if you can sort of overcost it so that you're giving me a price that's slightly higher than what I'd actually end up paying that'd be appreciated.
If there's any part of this that I'm not making clear, sorry. I'll try clearing whatever it is up if this happens though, and thanks to anybody who can help me out
Any help please?
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Alright, so my problem is still semi-persisting where my subs don't completely cut out, but sometimes they'll start sounding really muddy (best I can describe it...). I went to Best Buy yesterday, got a brand new Kicker 250.1 amp (30 day cash back return policy ftw), hooked it up, and the problem still sounded like it was there. Sometimes it'll take 5 seconds of playing for it to happen, and other times like yesterday when I had to drive an hour and a half back to campus it was working for probably 90% of that time. It's to the point where I'm just like f*** it and I'm gonna keep playing full tilt until something completely breaks so I know what it is.
I'm now looking into replacing all of my existing wiring, and I don't know much about the different types, etc. So I'm wondering what type of wire would be the best in each connection. Like from amp->ground, what type of wire should I get for that, from amp->subs what type of wire for that connection would be best, and so on.
For now I'd just like to know what the best gauge (I think it's called) wire is for each individual connection, and maybe some estimates on total pricing to replace every wire. I know this might be hard, but if you can sort of overcost it so that you're giving me a price that's slightly higher than what I'd actually end up paying that'd be appreciated.
If there's any part of this that I'm not making clear, sorry. I'll try clearing whatever it is up if this happens though, and thanks to anybody who can help me out
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^Nice man! Did see a little bit of flex...that's the only thing I hate about my camera is that it does my flex absolutely no justice whatsoever. If I've got my driver's door open then my driver's side back door flexes like crazy, but doesn't even show on video xD
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Must've got it from someone else on here then when I downloaded all of your zips a while ago then, my iTunes Date Added is showing same day as I got your zips so I just assumed
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Isn't this the one that BigPimpin did? Regardless, a really amazing track. These types are my favourite, I just love it when a song has a lovely female voice along with great bass
Subwoofer box build
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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