Sergeant_Skyrim

Correct, but maybe only one the power supply shits the bed and fuses blow before more damage is done to the amp. Cool?

Thinking about it from a safety standpoint you'd want to fuse to the manufacturer's specifications. Meaning that you'd be looking for 4 117.5a fuses (which don't exist). Skar actually has their own 120a fuses you could do though. The reason you'd want to do this is so that if the amplifier tries pulling more amperage than it's rated for you should pop the fuses before damaging the amp. If you're only fusing to protect the cables being shorted between the battery-amp connection though then probably just fuse to the size of the wire which would be 300a most likely.

Can't it be both? 1. Clipping cause a speaker to become stopped at a certain distance from resting rather than a fluid in and out motion. Like somebody else mentioned, there is no movement in the moment of clipping so the voice coil doesn't benefit from moving to help cool it down. Can lead to a thermal failure. 2. Clipping from overpowering can lead to both thermal and mechanical failure. Thermal - If the power being sent to the speaker is too much for the voice coil to handle thermally, poof. There goes smoke. Mechanically - Even if the speaker can handle the heat caused by extra power, this extra power can cause the speaker to exert more than it was intended to mechanically, causing the coil to jump the gap and break. Just a guess, you seem like you want to teach and I always love learning new things ?

You'd be fine just adding other batteries. Make no difference having D series and Xp batteries in your bank unless you want to get OCD about it Just to clarify the XP series as a starter battery though, I want to say I read they're just not meant for under the hood use because they are not as tolerant of heat as the D series are. The D series are built beefier and are able to be used BOTH under the hood AND in a bank. The XP series is ONLY to be used in a bank, away from the heat of the engine. I'm pretty sure you'd be fine running an XP series battery as your singular main starting battery as well, I had one XP3000 as the only battery in my Cavalier for a while a couple of years ago before I beefed up my bank and it worked just fine. The only difference being it was in the trunk, NOT under the engine. Tl;dr-D series able to be used under the hood and in the back in a bank; XP series for locations away from heat ONLY(such as trunk, interior of vehicle, NOT under the hood).

Mine's signed too, bought it in 2012 it has the '12 as well. Could've just been sitting, never used? Although I don't think using it would really affect the value, you hooked it up, set gain, and take it off not really any abuse. Think the signing thing was a limited time deal, weren't they started up in 2012? Think it was just a bonus for being one of the first to buy it iirc

Not sure if it's the same as normal mounting diameter, but if somebody could help me out I'd appreciate it. Just want to make sure I get the cut right and clean the first time, they'll be inverted and want to be sure surround won't be rubbing. Thanks!

If this is still a thing (thread is still pinned), then could I get mine changed to "Sergeant_Skyrim" please? Just to match with my PS3 and other sites I use usernames

Hey...I heard you're looking to adopt a second child for that fire truck powerwheels?

Had a guy I was buying an XP3000 and 2000 from locally few months back get mad at me when I set the XP3000 on the ground to grab the cash out of my pocket. He was freaking out thinking that I was going to blame him for a bad batt after I killed it by setting it on the ground or something lol

Boooo I was lied to! I can't be the only one hoping a tire was going to blow out or somebody was going to cut him off and make him flip...best chase my ass

40,000!

Whats it say? Still have no idea what it says XD

Please please please tell me somebody can add the original audio into this? Would literally be the most epic thing on the internet if it had the theme music to go with it

Just make sure the way it's designed the motors won't be choking the air flow on the inside of the box. Can't remember who it was but somebody was saying they made that mistake when they did theirs. Ended up crumpling the cone or something like that. Basically make sure there's enough space around the motors for air to flow and you should be good if everything else checks out

Those are just too damn funny...is that you making them and then taking the pics?

http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Kabuto_(Pok%C3%A9mon) I always knew they were real!

2, 4, 7, and 9. 2 for lol 4 is simple 7 my favorite, as long as color could be switched between say red to blue 9 seems like a cool concept, maybe those outlines could be of subs? Just my opinions, great work to all of the people who submitted these designs!

People are saying it's the car because the alt does work, just when the engine is spinning faster. Think about it. When it's colder out, there's less stress on all of the parts from heat. So naturally they run a little smoother, idle a little lower. Same way voltage works, everybody has amazing voltage during the colder half of the year compared to summer hahaIt's just the fact that your engine, like mine, has a lower rotation per minute speed than that of other vehicles. The alt works from this rotation to deliver current. Not enough spinning, no current will be put out FYI 90% of newer engines will high idle till they are warm. And he said he can drive for a few minutes THEN the alt turns on. Unless he idles around for 5min in drive.. Cold vehicles run rough till they are warmed up.. Not sure why you think they run smooth. You're right now that I think about it. Sorry guys, don't know why I was thinking of it backwards earlier...

Yeah no doubt Mechman's a great company, just not suitable for your specific application

People are saying it's the car because the alt does work, just when the engine is spinning faster. Think about it. When it's colder out, there's less stress on all of the parts from heat. So naturally they run a little smoother, idle a little lower. Same way voltage works, everybody has amazing voltage during the colder half of the year compared to summer haha It's just the fact that your engine, like mine, has a lower rotation per minute speed than that of other vehicles. The alt works from this rotation to deliver current. Not enough spinning, no current will be put out

Check this thread out: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/176300-03-chevy-cav-22l-eco/ Posted it when I was asking around for experience before I actually went ahead with purchasing it. That's DC Power Kyle's low idling vehicle with one of their alts on, you can see that the alt is putting out at very low RPMs. Best bet may be to just go ahead and talk civilly with Mechman, asking if there's any way you can just return it since it does not work with your application.

Hey man sorry to hear that this issue is still going on, I remember talking to you a while ago about our ecotec engines... I'm still waiting on my 270XP alt from DC Power, was between them and Mechman when I was talking to your a month or two about this. I will let you know once I get it how it is at idle. As for the issue of this alt not working, same thing happened with my Singer. Alt works fine, just the turn on speed isn't being reached. I'd ask if there's any way you can return it, and then look into DC Power's line of alts. I talked with Kyle on here and Andrew over the phone at DC Power, and between the both of them I'm convinced that their alt will be able to work properly at my Ecotec's idle