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Sergeant_Skyrim

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About Sergeant_Skyrim

  • Rank
    145db
  • Birthday 06/26/1992

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida
  • Interests
    Learning
  1. It'd probably be simpler and cheaper to just add a second sub and second amp, and master/slave them (if able) or gain match the amps rather than sell everything you currently have just to buy all new. And if you ever chose to revert or downsize in the future there's always that option
  2. Just because equipment is new doesn't mean that it can't be faulty. Best to take apart and test piece by piece as others have said dipping that low with the electrical you have shouldn't be happening
  3. Can't it be both? 1. Clipping cause a speaker to become stopped at a certain distance from resting rather than a fluid in and out motion. Like somebody else mentioned, there is no movement in the moment of clipping so the voice coil doesn't benefit from moving to help cool it down. Can lead to a thermal failure. 2. Clipping from overpowering can lead to both thermal and mechanical failure. Thermal - If the power being sent to the speaker is too much for the voice coil to handle thermally, poof. There goes smoke. Mechanically - Even if the speaker can handle the heat caused by extra power, this extra power can cause the speaker to exert more than it was intended to mechanically, causing the coil to jump the gap and break. Just a guess, you seem like you want to teach and I always love learning new things ?
  4. Subs up port back, sounds good. Am I safe to assume subs placed all the way to the back and port running along the bottom?
  5. Hello all, just trying to get an idea of which direction I should place the subs and port for a regular ported box in the rear of my suburban. It'll be my first build in this vehicle and I've only had experience in my cavalier, looking to see if I should go subs and port up, subs up port back towards back doors, or subs and port facing back doors? From what I've seen so far it seems like most people position subs up towards roof as close to the rear as possible with the port facing back at the bottom of the box, would I be safe in assuming this is my best bet? Looking to have it be window level behind 2nd row seats along with batts and amps. Thanks in advance for any input!
  6. Appreciate the help guys, it's weird because battery read fine and accessories would come on when I turned the key slightly. The battery was apparently no good, and when I fully turned the key to crank it that would completely drain the batt. Then I'd leave it sitting for a few min and it would regain just enough juice for the accessories to work and read fine. Figured it out by disconnecting pos and neg from batt and hooking up to one of my xs power outside of the vehicle. Now if only I could get this coolant leak figured out...
  7. Truck is a 2003 Chevy Suburban. Went to drive it earlier, turned the key and nothing happened. The Suburban is completely stock as of now but in the process of putting a 2nd alt and upgraded batts in once DC Power ships. Hooked it up to my Cav which has a 270xp and a d3100 to jump it, turned the cav on for a minute or two and tried turning the truck on. Nothing happened, no sounds or anything when I turned the key. I take the jumper cables off, go to close up the truck and somehow it all turns back on but I accidentally turn the key back off immediately since I wasn't expecting it to work. Not sure what the problem may be, going to try hooking factory wiring up to a d3100 one of these days when I get the chance to check if it's just the battery but I would think that if it was the battery it wouldn't have started after I unhooked the jumper cables and tried starting it again. A little confused, not extremely familiar with diagnosing problems so I'm not sure if it may be a starter issue, fuel filter, etc. I tried researching and all of these came up as potential problems. Any help in the right direction would be appreciated, thanks!
  8. That DC power alt and bracket still up for grabs? Having trouble seeing everything on mobile
  9. When you're the only person on an elevator and it finally gets to your floor, so you're ready to walk off as the doors open but there are people standing right in front of it blocking you, looking at you like what the hell are you doing trying to get off, we're trying to get on!
  10. Just want to make sure that I have this right as most of the equipment is in boxes once again, and I want to buy RCAs before installing. To test whether I'll need coaxial or twisted RCAs the only equipment that I need to hook up is the power and grounds on each of the amplifiers to my batteries? Do the batteries need to be installed in the vehicle (power ran to alt, ground to vehicle?) or can I just hook each of the amps up to a 12v power source just to test RCA outputs/grounds with a multimeter? And to make sure I have this right, Single-ended is coaxial Differential input is twisted? So if the resistance reads very low (<1ohm) then I need coaxial RCAs because I've got SE, and if the resistance reads very high then I'll need twisted because this means I'm working with differential input? Now does headunit play into this at all either? I'll be installing a Pioneer 80prs fresh out of the box, new. Will not be hot swapping any RCAs, or doing anything to potentially risk damaging it. I've been through that before and learned. Each of the amps I'm working with are also a DC Audio 9k, Crescendo 1100.4, and a Crescendo Symphony 550/2.
  11. Woohoo! Looks good man, can't wait to see it get even nastier once you upgrade. But looks like she does really great for now! You were saying in the video you peak at 34ish? How's the bandwidth look so far?
  12. No man, I'm in Washington, bit of a drive from Florida. Sorry, must've been somebody else haha
  13. It's funny how people assume things and jump to name calling. I've seen you post in other threads triticum, you seem like a really smart guy with a good bit of experience. I was actually going to ask what cortez stated about the flatter second graph being about 2 db quieter, got my answer from your response already though. Thanks for sharing! And if I'm remembering correctly, you're in FL? Go to any shows or meets around the Tampa area?
  14. The problem with this method is it tries to be a one-size-fits-all solution. Its more like a one-size-fits-almost-none. You have no idea what the final result is going to sound like, it could give smooth even response with good low end output, or it could be a peaky one-note wonder. Chances are its going to be closer to the latter of the two. d-REW, what kind of music do you listen to? One thing to keep in mind with T-lines is they basically do the same thing as a ported box, they just do it in a different way. Because of this their performance is going to be very similar to what a ported box would be of similar size. Then how would you go about designing a tline for a specific setup then? Any tlines I've ever seen/heard have had subs at the closed end done up exactly like this. What sort of benefits do you get from putting the sub ~1/3 of the way down the line vs. at the closed end, and how would you go about designing a tline aside from the method pinned at the top of this forum? It seems like a pretty standard cookie cutter type of design based around the resonant frequency of the sub and displacement, however I'd be interested in learning more about it from you if possible
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