Sergeant_Skyrim
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Posts posted by Sergeant_Skyrim
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thought of it. figured i'd check before i do something stupid lol
Hey man, sometimes it takes doing something stupid many times before perfection happens
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Not that I know of...suppose you could always give it a try!
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Redo it to this
So this is how you'd hook up two 4-ohm subwoofers to a 4-ohm load?
EDIT: This would be dual voice coil right? I actually found the link to the site posted higher up in the thread, think I've got what I was trying to ask figured out
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You can add a dl link to the YT description though
Pretty sure going around the rules like that is just as likely to get you banned...best just to stick to the rules
To OP, will check out song when I'm reunited with meh headphones later
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If you use the smd code it will be under 150
Do you know anything about how much this actually outputs? And sorry if I hijack your thread for a quick second OP, but you wouldn't need an extra battery/alternator or anything for this amp would you? I'd be hooking it up to my 2 Kicker Comps @ 2 Ohms and wouldn't be pushing it to max, I'd keep it at lower volumes til I upgraded subs
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You should probably give those Pioneers more power though to avoid clipping but only when you can afford it. Which Kenwood amp?
Just curious, but how would not giving them enough power would clip his subs?
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Also to OP, box does make one hell of a difference even if your subs aren't the best. I've got the weakest model that Kicker offers but when I switched from a prefab crappy wood sealed box to a ported 3/4" thick MDF box I noticed a major difference.
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I'm definitely going to be installing an alarm/remote start in my truck that I'm getting (2001 Silverado z71) . I've been looking at the Viper Security w/ Remote Start alarms, specifically the 5704 (IIRC, one of our Captain's has that installed on his 2011 F350 work truck), and he loves it. Are there any better two-way alarm/remote start systems for a less price? Also, how hard would it be to tap the alarm activation to go to, say, a train horn kit? Yes, I'm slightly crazy...
Thanks!I once wondered the same thing back when I had my train horn installed! Would be hilarious and I'm pretty sure anybody trying to break into your vehicle would have to run a mile or two just to get away
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Go to best buy, get an amp and install it yourself. Then use it for a few days to test then return it. (Just make sure you know what the return policy is
)Didn't think about this, but if after I go home this weekend to check all the wiring and it's still messed up then I'll try this for sure. They wanted $80/hour just to look at my stuff...yeah right.
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I swear my system is twice as loud with my windows down. Plus I enjoy windows down more than air conditioning.
This. Anything below upper 40Hz's sounds better with windows down for some reason. Also, I tend to sweat a lot if I've got AC on while I don't sweat at all with the windows down. I tend to wear a hoodie everywhere I go so even when I'm delivering pizzas late at night (not bumping in neighborhoods, just on the main streets around campus) I'll keep windows down on my way back to the shop. Windows up on the way to a delivery so that the pizza doesn't get cold!
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aight name some good 18s cheaper the better but dont forget quality haha
What tuning frequency are you looking at?
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How did you set your amp ? LPF, SSF, Gain...?
What are your box specs ? Good for the subs ? sure ?
This is the amp: http://store.mtx.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/RTP251D.cfm
Box specs are good for the subs, 3.8 cu ft net total tuned to 32 Hz with 16 sq in/cu ft. I don't know much about the amp/electrical part of my system, my dad set that up for me. I need to do some reading up on this stuff though, so hopefully this experience will help me learn what I need to know. I can tell you that I'm almost positive that the LPF/SSF/Gain aren't set incorrectly, I've had the amp hooked up for these past 5 years without it causing any problems. Knowing all of this, do you think that this may just be a wiring issue as well? I'm going back home this weekend anyways to have my dad check the wiring out, so I suppose I'll find out then.
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so there is still power. First thing I would check then is power, ground, and speaker connections. Make sure none are loose or coming out. Then check your RCA cables and make sure they are still tight.
Thanks man, I'll be heading back home this weekend after classes/work to have my dad help me out with this.
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It still sounds like the subs are being given some power, just really dirty and muddy. I honestly don't know how to describe it
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How is the wire hooked up to the sub from the amp? Are there terminals, wire go straight through the box, nuts and bolts, or some other way?
It is incredibly difficult to diagnose problems like this when you are there, and exponentially more difficult when you are not there.
There's a terminal cup (I believe it's called) in the backside of the box. Subs are in the front facing the interior of the car. So the wires go from the subs in front to the cup in back. There's a fair bit of slack too, so that we could wire the subs up outside of the box and then screw them into it.
What type of wire should be in there from subs-> amp, and are there any substitues/etc? Like can you use different types of wire and have it work just as good? I've read about different gauge wire but don't know much about it
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I don't mean to sound impatient/pushy, I really do appreciate the input so far...but would somebody please give me input on whether or not they think it's my amp that's crapping out? The subs seem to work perfectly fine still, just wanting to narrow down the problem to what it actually is so that I can have it fixed asap. I miss my dependable bass ='(
try some subs that you KNOW are good. see if it still does it.
That's the thing, I don't have any spare subs/amps to play around with nor do I know of anybody who does. And I'm almost positive after today that my subs work perfectly fine since they played great. I do suppose that a wire or something like that could cause it to cut in/out right?
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I would double check all your grounds before I bought a new amp..
I'm assuming this means to check all wires hooked up to my amp? Sorry, I'm not too familiar with the electrical side of things, that's one of the things that my dad hooked up (basically so I don't screw it up). And if it does mean taking a look at the wires or more specifically the ground wire running from the amp to the...battery? then what would I be looking for?
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I don't mean to sound impatient/pushy, I really do appreciate the input so far...but would somebody please give me input on whether or not they think it's my amp that's crapping out? The subs seem to work perfectly fine still, just wanting to narrow down the problem to what it actually is so that I can have it fixed asap. I miss my dependable bass ='(
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*Got done typing the below portion and then realized my original question hadn't been answered. Does my problem most likely mean that my amp has just crapped out after all these years?
I've got just over $300 cash at the moment, tip money FTW! But it'd be an amp just for my 2 Kicker Comp 12s, I am hoping to do a massive upgrade this summer (2 18" SP4's + a DC 5.0k amp in a wall). So I'm not looking to go all out right now, just something to give me bass for the time being. I've also read before that you can use an A/B (I'm guessing a mids/highs amp) to power your subs as well, but not a D (lows) amp to power your highs.
If ^this is the case, then would I just be able to buy a 300 or so watt A/B amp for the time being to power the subs and then switch it to mids/highs later on?
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Omg the suspense is killing me. I think I've finally found the root of the problem, because I've got enough money to just go get the Kicker 250.1 amp if this is the case. Anybody out there?
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Alright, so I posted on Friday night in the Subwoofer forum about my "blown sub(s)". I just went over my friends house today to pick up a screwdriver to check them out, and then had the bright idea to free air them when they were out. They worked perfectly fine. I was driving back to my dorm when something started crapping out again.
Now I'm starting to believe that my MTX RTP251D Amplifier that I've had for 5 or so years is just crapping out after years of abuse. Could this be what my problem is? It's only recently started happening, and I'm not paying the noobs at Best Buy $80/hour to check out my system - yes, I went and tried asking if I could get any help earlier and they said I'd have to pay. So after saying fudge that, I went to drive back home and didn't have any problems AT ALL with my system for the entire half hour or so drive. I wasn't listening to anything with low bass on that drive back home, it was all 43+Hz. When it started cutting out earlier, I was listening to some Psyph (Fresh On You + I'm The Shit) so I'm also wondering if lower notes could be stressing my old amp to the point of eventually crapping out.
Any help I can get with this is much appreciated, thanks!
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I just went out to do that actually (read it before somewhere) and they both moved, and neither one crunched/popped. If I try to play music through them though, only one of them starts to sound (prepare for my description) static-y/muffled/distorted. So I really don't know what the problem could be with them
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Doesn't matter the time, if one works then one isn't blown. If both shit, then I would assume both are blown. There's also hardly information in here thats actually pertinent to trying ti give a legitimate answer.
What sort of information would I have to give? I just woke up and was going to go down before work to check and see if it was just 1 or both so I could post that after I check it out in a bit
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I'm just wondering, I was listening to Wet Dolphin by Psyph and nothing in that song dips below 35Hz that I saw and my box is tuned to 32Hz. And it's not like I was turning the volume knob ALL the way up, I tuned it by ear I guess you could say and honestly feel like I wasn't clipping on that part either. Is it at all possible that it's a manufacturing defect? (Just wondering, don't tear me a knew ass)
Is it at all possible that perhaps when I got these that one of the voice coils had been partially damaged before and still have played since I wasn't giving full rated power?
To Nate's post, if something below tuning frequency was played before, could that have damaged something yet still been playable? And over time it just took it's toll and finally broke?
Appreciate the help so far guys, always good to learn from your mistakes when there's not much money involved I suppose
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Also, my car's resonant frequency seems to be rather high, maybe 52 or 53 Hz (A Milli and Got Money seem to sound really great whereas some of the C&S music I like doesn't "sound as loud" even though my box is tuned low). So when I have my windows up, the low notes sound even quieter as well. Could having my windows too far up have caused my subs to blow? Really just posting anything I can think of at the moment before I head off to bed, thanks again
Thanks!
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clean boosted version of the terminator theme?
in Tunez - All things music related
Posted
Good luck! Will be waiting