Jump to content

Sergeant_Skyrim

Members
  • Posts

    1265
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Sergeant_Skyrim

  1. Is this place near you? looks like maybe 30-45 minutes or so. call them and see.

    http://www.cahills.c...ductId=10700538

    Just called them up and asked if they had any battery chargers that would be suitable for car batteries. He told me no =(

    Is this not initially meant to be used for something like the XP3000, but works anyways? I really don't know much about batteries/chargers so bear with me please. And it's actually only 10 minutes away, good looking man

  2. Why not get a small charger to float it up like the battery tender? Less than $70 for the plus. What auto parts stores are near you?

    Really? I was browsing the XS website when I was checking the battery out for the first time and saw their chargers were like mid $300's. Thought battery chargers would be expensive as all hell haha. What sort of charger should I be looking for then? I think the only ones around where I live back home are Autozone/Napa/Auto discount or something like that. Would a charger like that bring it up to 14.4 or 13.6v or whatever I should charge it to before installing?

  3. Hello, I literally looked at every forum section and tried asking myself if this thread would be best in that section but I couldn't find a single one. My XP3000 came in sooner than I thought (still waiting on wire) and I was just wondering if there was anybody around the USF Tampa area or maybe in central FL around where I live who had a battery charger I could borrow/use for my XP3000. I don't know if this is considered out of the ordinary for people to ask to borrow/use equipment, but I wouldn't mind paying somebody a bit for letting me use their equipment/time. Of course I wouldn't be taking it off your property or anything, would just need to charge up the 3000 a bit.

    Figured there wasn't any harm in asking, so hopefully somebody can come through and help a fellow basshead out! =)

  4. That's pretty awesome man, I love spending quality time with my dad too. My dad can actually do the wheelie without falling though :P Half of the time that is :lol2:

    Lol he told me he used to be able to so he tried to show me how..

    Pretty sure that's what they all say, my dad won't even bother trying unless he's had a few beers beforehand. That way it doesn't hurt as bad when he busts his ass haha.

    EDIT: And damn you for making me want to drive back home this coming weekend. Haven't spent any quality time like this with my dad/mom in such a long time and this just reminds me of how much fun family is

  5. Was sort of looking for dimensions as in HxWxD as well as port dimensions. That way we can see how much port area/cubic feet you have, as well as other factors that may help to increase your SQ or even get you louder.

    My bad...

    Port area is around 170 iirc, port is 6-1/4 x 26-1/2 x 20 long. Definitely on the smaller side but I made the most of the space I had. It'll all be coming out when I take it into the bodyshop at the end of April so that's why I've been thinking about a new enclosure idea.

    Just plugged your info into Torres. If you've got 13 net cubes with that port area then they're only seeing ~12.74 square inches of port area per cubic foot of box. If your net box space is closer to 13.99 then you're only seeing 11.84 square inches of port area per cube. If you do decide to redesign then I'd say probably right around 16 square inches of port area per cubic foot to be honest.

    I know that when I made my 2nd box (the one I've got now) I went from 16.something square inches of port area at 31Hz to ~12 sq in per cube at 31Hz and the first one sounded better.

  6. Get smaller subs if you want to save space. I can't imagine any sub with 3k sounding good in sealed

    dont wanna save space, just don't want to give up MORE space. a 4th is sealed, you've never heard one sound good?

    That's not entirely true. A 4th is both sealed AND ported. The sealed section helps provide the lower end response, and depending on where you tune the ported section will determine the upper end response. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong

    What are the current specs of your ported box just out of curiosity? I get the feeling that you don't think your current box is living up to its full potential?

  7. C-Fizzy stated something along the lines of "Sure you can put SP4's in a sealed box. You could also pay a hooker to clean your room. But why the fuck would you do either of those?" I would vote for the 4th order option if you wanted to do that however, from what I've read/heard they should be right at home in one of those. I'd also go with inverting them too, they look sexy :wub:

    So C-Fizzy had them sealed and they weren't worth it?

    Id go 4th but like i said i don't want to give up more room than i already have.

    Don't think he ever had them, it's just that with the potential they have it's pretty much a waste to put them in a sealed box. You could most likely get considerably louder by putting them in a ported or 4th order box. So if space is an issue I'd just stick with ported tbh

  8. C-Fizzy stated something along the lines of "Sure you can put SP4's in a sealed box. You could also pay a hooker to clean your room. But why the fuck would you do either of those?"

    I would vote for the 4th order option if you wanted to do that however, from what I've read/heard they should be right at home in one of those. I'd also go with inverting them too, they look sexy :wub:

  9. so i was at best buy today and they had the album out so i bought it and im very impressed with it, there is one song that is highly clipped and its stuipid hoe, but all the others are good, there are 3 songs that stand out the most with killer bass..deff go buy the cd its worth it

    beez in the trap

    champion-i think its 29hz constant

    hov lane

    How do you listen to that stupid hoe O_o

    Before that song came out, she was whatever in my book. Now I just look at her like that dumb blonde chick in my Statistics class who asked me what "that fish" on the screen was. "That fish" was the symbol for alpha. That is how dumbed down Nicki has become in my book.

    /rant

  10. Just ordered one from AudioSavings, pretty excited. So just making sure that I'm doing everything right here, I should be able to just secure it in the trunk of my Cavalier and run wiring to it and I should be good to go? I don't need to worry about fumes or anything like that coming into the cabin of the car from the battery? This will be my first additional battery that I'm adding so I just want to make sure that I'm doing it right and won't be potentially causing a volatile gas chamber in my car.

    Also wanted to say thanks for teaming up to give us the great group buy this month, it's really appreciated!

  11. .... seriously?

    cut wire, install wire, done.

    Yes, I understand that I need to cut the wire the length that I need, but would I need 4 runs of 8 gauge? Going to all 4 connections on the subs (2 each) and then wire both positives together somehow and both negatives somehow onto the terminal cup? What is the metal piece called that I need to connect to the terminal cup that I also connect from the subs to?

    Off to class now, will check back later. Just now starting to learn about wiring so I don't know much. Just trying to make sure I've got everything correct and that I'll get everything I need before I do it.

  12. Alright, so here's the connection from 16/18 gauge wires to terminal cup:

    http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/549134_3373364805623_1014379508_33165815_8443338_n.jpg

    How do I go from 8 or 10 gauge wire to the terminal cup? I'm guessing I have to find bigger metal parts to stick the wires into after twisting both positives and both negatives together respectively, and then crimp the metal parts? Then slide onto the metal parts sticking out of the terminal cup?

    Any feedback would be great, I really want to start upgrading all of my wiring soon and this seems like a good place to start. Cheers!

  13. Alright, I'll take some bashing but that's why I'm wanting to upgrade it now. Here's a picture of the current wiring from my subs->amp:

    http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/535902_3373326004653_1014379508_33165807_1497644146_n.jpg

    Two 4-ohm Kicker Comps wired down to a 2-ohm load via terminal cup in the back of the box. The black/red wires are 18 gauge and the blue wires say 16 gauge I believe (or 18 gauge, can't read them). I'm wanting to upgrade my wiring, and am wanting to do 8 or 10 gauge wiring from subs->amp.

    My question is how would I do this? The current length between terminal cup and subs is 4 feet, so would I need 4 lengths of 4 foot 8 gauge wiring? And would I just crimp both positives and both negatives to the terminal cup? I'll take another picture of what the back of the terminal cup looks like real quick, forgot to do that as well. Will post back in a couple minutes after I upload it

  14. No way of telling you how long they can keep the voltage up while being stored. The conditions they are being stored in plays a big factor. Usually a fully charged Group 31 battery can last a month or two before dropping into the 12.6V range. Just make sure and watch the voltage to see where it is and when it close to 12.6V put it on an AGM charger.

    Sounds good! I should be able to install it within a month or two's time. Thanks for the response =)
×
×
  • Create New...