Sergeant_Skyrim
-
Posts
1265 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Sergeant_Skyrim
-
-
Question has been answered, I appreciate the help everybody!
Quick question guys, I'm trying to attach 3 runs of SHCA 1/0 to my XP3000 which already has 1 run of welding cable and 1 run of 4 gauge SHCA attached to the positive post and I'm unable to fit them all on there. Went to home depot and took the post out of the battery and took it to the hardware section to size it up. Came out with 1/4" x 28 for the thread size but when I bought that size it doesn't fit in there.
This was the only size it screwed into on the fitting chart but I'm obviously wrong with this size considering the 1/4" x 28 bolt didn't fit into the battery lol. Wanting to make a run to the store in the morning so that I can finish this up (literally the last thing I need to hook up lol).
I know I've rambled on a bit now, but I was just wondering what the actual size of the bolt on the XP3000 is so that I can get a longer one to fit in there. Thanks for reading
-
Let's go with a solid 2100 total
-
Forgot to ask when I bought mine, but do we get tracking numbers for our orders when they do ship?
-
My old BRZ2100 would do that too when setting the gain. No noise until it hit distortion, then when I backed gain off it would stop humming once the DD1 said it wasn't distorting anymore
-
9k to 33898 please sir!
-
That 85.4 is very tempting, just to double check all of these come with a 1 year warranty right?
-
Name: Chris
Products interested in: 2x DC 2.0k Amps
Shipping Zipcode: 33898
How you heard about this sale: Email from SMD
Is this a Christmas Gift: Yes
-
hahaha for sure =] Its the only thing I had on me that peaked at 32 hz. I normally will play it at shows though, It makes people laugh =]
Is this the regular version of the song or an edited version? Shit slams haha
-
I hate to sound like a jackass here, but nobody has really answered my question. I will be attempting my first box build, and I would feel most comfortable building a sealed box. Everyone is telling me to go ported, and I just don't want to. I want a sealed box. I don't want 12's, I want to keep my 15's because it's what I already have and I don't have the money to drop on 2 new 12's.
I'm getting discouraged by the responses I've seen here, and I know that there are people out there with real knowledge as how to solve my problem (and going to 2 12's in a ported box is not the solution I'm looking for.)
Sorry if this came off as rude, but I know what I want to do. I just need some advice as to how to do it.
Thanks
Well, coming from somebody who cut their first ported box using a jigsaw, I can tell you that a crappy (to an extent) ported box built to good specs will destroy a prefab sealed box. I went from 2 Kicker Comp 12s in a prefab to a ported and it was an extreme difference. So my final advice to you would be to build a ported box for just 1 of those 15s and sell the other one if you don't have any use for it. I know you say you don't want to do ported because you don't have experience building them, but I didn't either and my shitty ported turned out hella better than the prefab
-
i feel like we may have different interpretations of balls jiggling
It's just been so long since I've had my balls jiggled by my ZCON that I must not remember what a great sensation it really is :'( Still waiting on it to be fixed. But as everybody else has said OP, you don't have the proper space for 15s. Go a size smaller and you'll be tons happier
-
you have no low end because you have massive cancellation and kickers dont exactly reach down and jiggle your balls anyways. I cant see you fitting them in the trunk. even sealed.
I beg to differ. I've got one of my old Kicker Comp 12s in my 2.2 cu ft. box for my ZCON tuned to 31Hz and Rack City still jiggles my balls. And I surprisingly haven't blown it with my BRZ2100 yet
-
Nobody reading this thread will be able to tell you if this is going to be covered under warranty. That is between you and the guys over at SSA.
All you get here will be a bunch of opinions on what happen that are not going to mean anything. Work it out with the correct people. If you call them and start letting them know "well the people over on the SMD forum said this or that", it will just be a negative way to start the process correctly.
I would bet those guys are going to take care of you without any problems, unless the receive the sub and the coil is black and it has obviously been abused. . .
The reason I was looking for opinions was because like I said before, I don't want to place blame without knowing who it should be placed to. I just wanted to make sure I covered all my bases before emailing Mark saying that it looks to be a manufacturing defect and it turning out not to be. I'm not trying to cause problems, merely making sure I cover all my bases
-
I would think it would be considered manufacturing defect. I would just email them tell them everything you have posted on here and see what they say. My guess is they would fix it because its not like you burnt a VC or somehting from overpowering but I guess you could have played it free air exceeding the limits of the soft parts. Not saying you did though.
Email em. see what they say..provide pics and details on box tuning pics of amp setup etc.
Than if they are helpful or not post correspondance on here...my guess is SSA will provide you with quality customer service.
I think you need contact ssa about this..have you yet?
Sent Mark an email already, he has given awesome customer service in the past. It's just that I've worked my ass off for this and then for this to happen just made me pretty mad. I'm not so mad anymore, just hopeful that I can get it fixed since it's not something that I did to break it. So I guess I'll give him some time to get back to me and I did also provide him with the pictures and all =)
-
Subsonic was 27ish, here are two more pics. Guess the dust cap did come unglued and start slapping the cone, is this my fault or manufacturing defect? I need to know if I should be looking towards warranty to cover this or what
-
What is the size of the box and what is it tuned to?
What amp are you exactly using?
2.2 cu ft net tuned to 32.something Hz on a Hifonics Brutus BRZ2100.1D wired to 1ohm.
-
I'm honestly so mad right now it's fricking ridiculous...I've only had this sub installed and playing for a couple weeks and it's already broken. What I need to do now is figure out whether it was a manufacturer error, or something that I did. I don't want to place blame without knowing, but there's nothing that I can think of that I've done that could've done this. I set my gains/headunit with my DD-1, I built a box within their recommended specs, sub says it takes 2250w RMS and I'm not even giving it that. This thing costed $532.39 (I bought it brand new from SSA) including shipping which was $80 something and I worked my ass off to buy it so I'm obviously not going to do anything to hurt it.
In the pictures you can see what I'm going to call ripples around the dust cap. It just happened today and sounded like something (I'm assuming the dust cap) sounds like it's flapping apart. I immediately stopped playing it because I really don't want to damage it more than it already is. Does this look like a build error like something just wasn't aligned properly when the sub was built or what? I'm just looking for help diagnosing what it is, and I really need to go blow off some steam because I worked my ass off delivering pizzas for months to make this happen. Thanks to anybody who can reply and try to help me out, I'll be sending an email to SSA once I can get this figured out. Again, not trying to dish out blame to anybody I really just want to know what would have caused this
-
Your amp isn't going to pull 200 amps on music. Music has duty cycle. If it makes the rated 2,100 watts RMS into 1 ohm, that translates to about 91 amps with music assuming 80% amplifier efficiency. Double that for test tones.
Wish I would've known this before I went and dropped money on a new alt lol. Oh well, guess that just means I can have twice the power I have now when my 235a alt gets here
-
Yeah, I was just expecting to not be able to play full tilt 2100 watts/200amp current pull on my stock alternator with only 1 upgraded battery in the back lol. I can't make any videos yet, but I will be taking a few after class tomorrow!Your at 1 ohm, the amp just has 2 + and 2 - for easier wiring. And to ME dropping to 12.8 is a lot of drop. I don't like to drop lower than like 13.8
-
i think it bridges it at the terminals inside the amp, soooo you should be at 1 ohm
maybe that xp3000 is just a beast haha
Was thinking maybe the same thing lol. I'm noticing a lot of very weird things going on now too. I used to peak right around 52 or 53Hz with my old 2 Kickers on the 200 watt amp and now it seems to peak around 30Hz? The lower frequencies(25-33ish) seem to be wayyy louder than higher frequencies (37-60ish) for some reason as well
-
You might still be at a 4 ohm load or a 2ohm load. If I were you i would wire it to 1ohm if your amp is stable that low. Search subwoofer wiring diagrams on Google and that will help you out.
The link I posted is for the 12volt diagram for wiring a DVC D2 sub down to 1 ohm. I will be rewiring it like the diagram shows when I get a chance, just hope that's what the problem is.
-
Alright, so I just put my new system all in today. Consists of 1 D2 ZCON 12, 1 BRZ2100.1D, and 1 extra XP3000 in the back. All 1/0 connections between hood battery/3000 and grounds for both batteries + from XP3000 to amp. Also got my 3 fuses connected too along the power wire. My problem is, this amp says that it draws 200 amps of current. I've still got my stock alternator so I was expecting some major voltage drop after playing full tilt 25-40Hz songs for a couple hours. The thing is, I'm not really seeing much more voltage drop than when I had my 200 watt MTX amp hooked up to my two Kickers.
I tuned everything with the DD-1 before playing it, and have the settings set to what they should be. The lowest that my voltage has dropped to today was 12.8 while at idle. When I'm driving I sit right around 13.6-13.8 constant.
One thing that I did notice was that I have a D2 DVC sub and I didn't wire it exactly like this shows:
http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/1_2ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif
Instead, I have 4 wires running from sub -> amp. Both negatives going to the amp negatives, and both positives going to the amp positives. Both lefts are going to the left channels, and both rights are going to the right channels. Would this still wire it down to a 1ohm load or am I sitting at a 4 ohm load? This is the only thing I think of at the moment, seeing as my voltage doesn't drop as much as it should for a 200amp current pull.
Any help is much appreciated!
-
Thanks for the quick responses everybody, we were just wanting to make sure that it was all good before we finished off the rest!
@Amart, yep, came right out of the bottom of the terminal pretty much all the way around.
@strangeduck, Yessir, made sure to reheat after it cooled for a little so that there'd be somewhat of a smooth puddle up top.
Back out to finish the rest off I go, thanks fellow bassheads!
-
Hey guys, just working on putting in my new system this weekend so dad and I are now at the point of soldering the 1/0 into ring terminals. Here are the pics if you all could let me know how they look. I watched both Meade's and HVCA's vids on how to solder. I'm trying to finish this part up tonight so that it'll be done before the week starts and I have to go back out to school for the week
-
You should always tune with a 0 db tone so you won't have to worry about playing songs that are over what you set
Yes, But won't you lose loudness on songs that are like -7db? I'm still tring to learn this whole thing. I mean meade is set to -10db and he plays under 5 so I don;t get it
It's honestly all about where you're comfortable adjusting your settings to. Tune with 0db to be safe, and tune with lower db's knowing that you may risk damaging equipment. This doesn't mean that you ARE going to blow your equipment. Just think of it as a condom that says 99% reliable. Most people will be fine, but there's always that one guy who gets fucked over in the end
.gif){kind=small}
Bolt size for XP3000?
in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Posted · Edited by iChrisTucker
Damn it all, knew I shouldn't have let that old guy at Home Depot take the bolt from me and just test fit it myself...second time he's screwed me over with them shaky ass hands of his!
edit: How sure are you of that size btw?