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Sergeant_Skyrim

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Posts posted by Sergeant_Skyrim

  1. OMG this makes me SOOOOO sad.

    Sad because I didn't actually get to see video of the jackass being shot. Only still frames of him laying on the ground =(

    They have a video in the link of the confrontation...

    Right where it says "Watch the video here."? That video seemed choppy, like it was starting and stopping every couple seconds. That's what I meant by still frames :P

    I hope this teaches gangbangers and thugs a lesson though, that there are still people out there who aren't going to put up with their shit. I am glad that this was an ex-deputy though, otherwise I could see this ending up as the hero ending up in jail because he was a regular citizen with a gun "just looking to kill somebody"

  2. JL's site recommends tunning the box to 38hz and in would be a brace in the middle,

    Even so, you do realize that a value of .75 in the bracing displacement section means three quarters of a cubic foot. Imagine a block of wood 12" tall by 12" wide by 12" deep. You're saying that you'll be using 3/4 of this chunk of wood for bracing.

  3. I have a pair of power acoustik p3-15w and am using a boss ph5000 watt amp. I am looking to build a ported box that is no bigger than 40"x15"x12" but also have enough room to give these things 4 cubic feet on each side. Can someone plz help me with the dimensions for the box. I would greatly appreciate it.

    40x15x12 only gives you 3.16 cubic feet of net internal space. You'd be better off with a single 12 lol. Don't know how you'd be having enough room for 4 cubic feet on each side with only 3.16 cubic feet to work with

  4. I know you can have too little port area, less than 15in2 per 1ft3..... But often times I see ultra large ports in walled builds. I'm currently designing a 4th order for 2 18s and want to be able to get in through the loading wall to mount the subs. Ported side looks like it's gonna be 12ft3 and a port big enough to fit in is at least 300in2.

    Just wondering if it would do anything other than help control excursion maybe from restricted air movement, if that's even the case. It just sounds logical to me.

    300in2 for a 12ft3 ported section is 25in2 per 1ft3 :shok:

  5. No. Net box space too big and port area/net cubic feet too small. Could easily fix this by adjusting either width or depth and making either smaller.

    EDIT: You want somewhere around 16 square inches of port area per net cubic foot though. So if you reduce the depth/width of box to make it around suggested specs for that 15 (I don't personally know) and you still haven't hit that number then try changing the port width to 3.5 or 4 maybe.

  6. Would also like to point out that 1.7ftx3ftx3ft is less gross volume than what you posted. Math might be off in a couple places, never hurts to double check ;)

    1.7x3x3 is 15.3

    Sorry about that, meant to post net instead of gross. The 15.3 cubic feet includes all of the space that the wood takes up.

  7. So that's why it was such a pain in the ass to get it into the 1/0 connectors I had lol. I agree with the Knu CCA if your on a budget. I used it for my big three and have had no problems. Still noticed a solid 1~2/10ths of a volt higher. The rubber jacket does seem kind of thin in my opinion tho...

    Just ordered 36' of xscorpion 0ga from darvex. Ill let you know how it is when it gets here tomorrow! :woot:

    Nice man! Hope mine gets here by Saturday, that way I can wire up my XP3000 in the trunk this weekend :D

  8. Came across what looks to be some good priced welding cable...does this seem like a good substitute for 0 gauge?

    https://weldingsuppl...OR:terms::PA#A2

    Welding cable is great stuff as long as its ofc. its gonna be a little less flexible but still I'd use it.

    If youre short on cash get knukonceptz CCA 50ft spool for less than 100. Its cheaper than welding cable

    Wouldn't the OFC welding cable be better than CCA?

  9. how much you trying to spend?

    tsunami is very good for the money, id go with knu or shok wire

    I'm looking for right around 50 feet most likely. I will have 2 batteries, one under the hood and one in the trunk. So I just need enough 0 gauge to make between all of that.

    EDIT: I also saw in the wire/fuse guide thread pinned up top that 2 gauge wire should be good enough, but I can't find anywhere reliable that I know of who sells it

  10. Alright, so I tried checking on Audiosavings for some 0 gauge wiring that I'm going to be needing soon. I came across http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifier-Power-Cable/Cadence-0G100-BLACK-0-AWG-Gauge-25-Feet-Amp-Power--Ground-Wire-Car-Audio-Cable/25+FEET+0G100-BLACK.aspx and it doesn't seem like it's 100% OFC 0 gauge wire like I'm looking for.

    I'm just trying to save as much money as possible (aren't we all?) while still getting good quality wire. I'm going to be running a BRZ2100.1D (maybe 1700.1D if Audiosavings doesn't stock any 2100s soon) so I need wire that'll be able to support this. If anybody knows of any other wire that's reasonably priced and that'll be able to support what I'm getting then that'd be great. I've read a few times that welding cable is about half the price of true 1/0 and works just as good. So might just end up going that route to be honest.

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