-
Posts
12807 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Miguels
-
-
-
-
i have a bad battery on my bike.. if i charge the battery enough to turn it on it charges at 12.4 i rev it and goes up to 13.1 but quickly drops to 12.4 again.. charge it up for 2 hours and try again and it charges at 14.1 regardless if i rev it or not. after a while it drops to 13.9 and 14.0.. the low battery makes a big difference in my bike and how the stater charges. you could be having the same issue
-
ddm=digital multi meter
i have had bad luck with yellow tops..
-
please be more clear.. which meter stock or DMM and where did you plug it? have you check all the wiring to see if its secure? have you checked if it has a fuse and if the fuse is working properly? check for loose wires on every connection.. if the alt would be bad the battery light on the dash and maybe the check engine light would be on.. if they are not on then the alternators is working but somewhere there is a bad connection how old is the batter and what brand is it. cant you test it after turning your car off taking note of voltage then rechecking hours later to check the voltage?
if i get the reading from my cigarette lighter is reads 13v and eveen 12v but at the batteries im at 14.8..
-
yes.. did the shop take care of that? 1/0 wire for that alt would be good.
-
ground it to the frame and battery.. do you even have the big 3 done?
-
13.6-13.8 yes. Less than that, no. No vehicle on a standard 12v electrical system will charge that low. the only reason for voltage to read lower than that all of the time is the alternator isn't charging at the voltage it should be.many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..
Yea i noticed other ppls 12v systems would be at 13.8 or even 14
yes but you can rule the alternator is bad.. check connections.. check every wire like grounds and even the back plug on the alternators.. all that can make it not operate properly
many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..
During the summers in PHX. My Powermaster used would drop to 13.7 when it was 105+ out. Winter it would charge at 14.6. both numbers are while driving
i haent run my singer during winter.. they charge at 14.1 and drop to 13.8 once hot.. im sure it will jump higher during winter
- 1
-
you shouldnt talk before knowing.. i have ran DC alts.. and there is a person i got one from that he can prove i have DC alts. im also not new to alternators.. i have swapped in and wired alts to my cars even before being a member in this forum.. the ones you have had are not the one the OP has.. i know the ones i had have ran at 15.2 and drop to 14.8 but not ecm controlled. not all alternators and vehicles are the same. also not all DMM are accurate.. i have a high end one that reads one thing and a $20 one and the readings are way off.. my high dollar one matches with the smd meter and xs power meter the cheapy one matches with none
go ahead and ask kevin from cnf who got his a DC alternator when he got 8 xs power d3100 from him.. then go ask broke audio who bought his dc power alternators
-
test your batteries.. check what is the resting voltage then check the drop when you start the car.. if it drops to 9v then you have a bad battery
-
you guys dont even know what car he has or if the voltage is controlled by the ecm so how can you assume the alternator is bad.. first you trouble shoot then conclude whats wrong.. do you even know how he is getting his voltage reading? do you know if its accurate? anything above battery resting voltage is an indication the alternator is charging.. again check connections and amp gain..
-
at first the price hits you like damn thats expensive. but then you see that they are assembled in the US and not only that, its done by hand not a robot. that makes the msrp realistic.. if i was to be building an SQ car these amps would be at the top of the list
- 3
-
vids or it never happened
- 1
-
the 3sixty.3 i never messed with but its a possessor not a gain setting.. you need to set the gain on the amp
-
many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..
-
well not really.. if the alternator is good enough it shouldn't drop regardless of voltage that is running at.. its the amperage that makes voltage drop.. if the alternator is a 320a and drops to 11v on with a possible 120A draw then there is an issue.. i think it could be bad connections and even a clipping amplifier.. it dont matter what voltage the alternator charges.. could be 13.4 or 14.8 the voltage shouldnt drop that bad.. if its dropping to 11v volts at 13.2 it will drop to 11v even if its charging at 14.8
-
-
he said DC power
-
bit of topic here but do you have pictures you can post.. would like to see your setup..
-
it coulf be that the gain is set a bit high.. you shouldnt be dropping that bad as long as the batteries are still good.
the subs not getting loud could be in the box itself
-
-
before you buy another battery.. how are the gains set, who set them and how was it done?
-
-
Random Picture Post V2
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
too many people here complained about it the day off so they pulled them