87regal
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Posts posted by 87regal
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Unless you have some serious voltage issues, I bet it's just psychoacoustics at work.
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TSIA
Without knowing the subwoofer, vehicle, etc no one could even begin to answer this question. That being said, run a sweep and find the loudest frequency and there's your answer.
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step it up to the 1500.bdcp not much in price difference and at 1 ohm it can put out 1800-1900 watts rms. if you use the 1000.1bdcp then dont wire it at .5 ohms i dont think its stable besides the power difference would be so small it wouldnt realy matter
without knowing what subs he is going to get you suggest upgrading power? thats stupid.
No such thing as too much head room lol
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Line the whole trunk with it. It's not going to stop it completely but it will definitely help and make a noticeable difference. Do the doors too if you have enough.
IMO a waste. Which deadener are you using? The point of CLD is to diminish resonance, which can be accomplished with a single layer of 25-50% coverage in the middle of a panel.
true for a flat panel
which the trunk lid is not
Yup, in that case it should be even easier.
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Line the whole trunk with it. It's not going to stop it completely but it will definitely help and make a noticeable difference. Do the doors too if you have enough.
IMO a waste. Which deadener are you using? The point of CLD is to diminish resonance, which can be accomplished with a single layer of 25-50% coverage in the middle of a panel.
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So, we all know that people generally use wire in the range of 12-8ga from their amp(s) to woofer(s). My question is, if we're using that thickness wire to transfer anywhere from 1000-10000+ watts to a woofer, how in god's name does that tiny, almost hair-thin piece of copper running between the tinsel leads and coil come close to handling all that?? I've always wondered that when seeing pics of woofer guts, and don't understand it. I'm embarrassed that I'm halfway through EE undergrad and can't solve this. Is it just because it's totally uninsulated and is a short run?
Very simple. Higher voltage= less amperage as per Ohm's law( in comparison to the power input of the amp). Then as mentioned the fact it's so short comes into play. Just think of how thin (the inside of)a fuse can be relative to the current it can handle.
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Any CLD tile is designed to eliminate resonance. That being said, if you're using a high quality product like SS then a single layer of 25%(IMO 50% at the most) coverage in the middle of the panel will take care of any resonance.
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dose box rise also affect music say if i run .5 ohm on music will i be ok with the box rise the amp will be
RF 1000-db its 1 ohm im going to have a mechman 220 alt and 4 runs of 1/0 as of now i have hc2000 in the rear and the hc600 up front i know i should get a bigger battery for the front that will be change out asap and hopefully get more batteries when i have more cash what so my question is will the box rise affect on daily music
Box rise is different for every situation. If you could plot your impedance profile you would know exactly what's going on.
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I would just run two with that air space and power. I'm looking into ssa subs myself so I know a lot about them
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Any pics of the a-pillars?
I would try Ohio Gen, DC power, Mechman, etc.
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I bet it's more rigid than MDF
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Yall are getting away from what he ask... Do the one run. Shave a little off its not that bad
Yeah, then maybe solder it too.
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Same material, same cross sectional area, same current handling , same shit. My 1/0 welding cable is the same as my 1/0 car audio cable.
lol just no.
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/515724-wire-comparison.html
Click that and tell me that they are all the exact same size.
Those are obviously not the same cross section or even material. What I was saying was I happen to own cable from weldingsupply.com which is the same as some car audio(don't recall what brand)cable I have. It's common knowledge that not all car audio cable was created equal. We are actually agreeing with each other, no reason to be an ass. But nice link I'll have to bookmark that.
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If you go by how people rate wire size when you double runs below 1/0 .
U subtract 3 from the wire size for each identical run.
Two runs of 4 gauge = 4 - 3 = 1 gauge
That is technically smaller than 0/1 car audio wire.
Car audio 0/1 is like welding wire 2/0 and is more than 1/0.
Or that's what I've been reading and done some handson research myself.
AWG is AWG no matter what it's used for. Also, don't forget to check what material it is made of. Two reasons to only deal with reputable companies.
1/0 awg = 53.5 mm^2 cross section.
4awg= 21.1 mm^2 cross section.
So you're right the 1/0 would have more current handling capacity.
i didnt mean it like that, i meant the way they rate the wire size and all.
car audio rated 0/1 is comparable to 2/0 welding size.
Same material, same cross sectional area, same current handling , same shit. My 1/0 welding cable is the same as my 1/0 car audio cable.
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well i think there saying no because for the price of a good cap you can add a few bucks and get an ok batt and will outperform the cap in everyway
but caps do have there place and use's
shit my teammate had to use a cap in his street max car to help keep the deck on for 1 extra second so he could get 158.x dbs off one BATT
...not that I like to use them. -
capacitor no, hid's yes
; ) Capacitor no, and HID's are hiding/bandaiding the issue...hell, if ya want it that simple.. If your head lights dim, turn em off.. Problem solved ... Or .. Listen to a VET like, ummm i dunno,.. TEAM BASSICK (all of em)
Assuming that his electrical is in order and his problem is actually regulator lag, I would like to know why not a capacitor. Please don't tell me "because everyone on all the forums said capacitors are evil" or anything like that.
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how or whats a good setup to stop my headlights from dimming when i hit lows (how many batteries and what size should i use for >>>>> (2)2300watt rms phantom audio 12s DVC 4hom into a 1ohm mono autotek 4k amp wired with 2gauge what the approriot size batteries ill need any info or advice would be helpfull also thanks:)!!!!!
Do they dim and stay dimmed for as long as the note, or is it just real quick? If it's just real quick at the beginning of the note it could be the regulator lagging. If that's the case you could get HIDs or a capacitor.
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If you go by how people rate wire size when you double runs below 1/0 .
U subtract 3 from the wire size for each identical run.
Two runs of 4 gauge = 4 - 3 = 1 gauge
That is technically smaller than 0/1 car audio wire.
Car audio 0/1 is like welding wire 2/0 and is more than 1/0.
Or that's what I've been reading and done some handson research myself.
AWG is AWG no matter what it's used for. Also, don't forget to check what material it is made of. Two reasons to only deal with reputable companies.
1/0 awg = 53.5 mm^2 cross section.
4awg= 21.1 mm^2 cross section.
So you're right the 1/0 would have more current handling capacity.
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In my opinion the only brands(that I know of) of CLD worth using are Second Skin and Sound deadener show down, based on quality and CS. They are probably the most expensive, but for a reason. If you think you need massive amounts of CLD then you might be going about it the wrong way.
I totally agree. Far too often people are overusing or misusing sound deadener and it's a crying shame.
Personally there are only a handful of products that I would ever consider using and I have stated this many times.
For me I use a weird formula based on performance to price ratio x coverage needed to achieve the best results.
Example:
I have 20 sq. ft. of surface area I need to treat.
25% panel coverage = 5 sq. ft. of material
(optional - add 15%-20% more for just in case = about 1 sq. ft. more)
Total amount of product needed = 6 sq. ft.
Price of top product I am considering - $5.00 a sq. ft. x 6 sq. ft. = $30.00
If cheaper product requires 1.5-2 times as much product, so 9-12 sq. ft., to equal the same results...
Price of cheaper product I am considering - $3.50 a sq. ft. x 9-12 sq. ft. = $31.50 - $42.00
This is why the argument from those using two, three, or even four layers of roofing material or even an inferior product is completely asinine because it never comes out cheaper.
Ok enough ranting for this morning.
I used to be one of those guys before I knew any better. I got the same performance using 25% coverage with quality CLD as 2 layers of quick roof with 100% coverage. It worked out to be a similar price, but the additional install time, finger cuts , and weight make it a no brainer.
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CCA vs OFC is also a big factor.
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In my opinion the only brands(that I know of) of CLD worth using are Second Skin and Sound deadener show down, based on quality and CS. They are probably the most expensive, but for a reason. If you think you need massive amounts of CLD then you might be going about it the wrong way.
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brutus is ok, just don't expect rated power.
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I would like to start of with saying I have experimenting lately with speaker box designs and educating myself with acoustical engineering.
One type of enclosure that had fascinated me was the taped horn. I have completed the experiments I wanted with them, and concluded that they don't work well in the car environment.
I believe the reason you did not have any success in a vehicle may have been because your particular design was not suited to work well in a pressurized environment. Generally speaking I have noticed horns, t-lines, etc(I think these type of enclosures would be considered acoustic impedance matching transformers, rather than helmholtz resonators.) work best in open areas and cars like SUVs and Hatch backs. I have been told the cabin is like an extension of the line length.
I've noticed that a lot of people are not following some fundamental rules in acoustics, and building there enclosures in-efficiently. Example:
The worst enclosure shape to the best shape:
Square with speaker centered (maximum standing waves and speaker destruction)
Rectangle
Triangular
Egg shaped the best
Don't forget Hoffman's Iron law: Small box, low end extension, sensitivity...pick 2 Can't have your cake and eat it too lol
As far as the enclosure shapes, I wouldn't worry too much about standing waves inside enclosures. I think it was one of PWKs youtube videos that said you would need an enclosure the size of a small room before standing waves became a problem in low frequencies.
My next build will include A AQ HDC3 18
Box design: Hexagon shaped using 11 ply, .75 birch, aluminum braced, and now considering to add ceramic tiling to the interior walls.
I will be building a standard enclosure,(rectangle/square) of the same volume to test this against.
Before I finish, I would like someone(you all) to discuss, what shape, and position is best suited for a port in car audio? I've seen spl boxes with the port extending outside the enclosure, so is this the best? As far as I can remember the port should be at least half its length away from the closest wall.(don't quote me on this).
There is almost no information on the web about this stuff, and I hope this discussion can help educate me and other bass heads alike!
There is no BEST alignment. Every situation can be different. As far as the SPL boxes, that is to minimize impedance rise. Looking forward to seeing the results.
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where to get quality budget friendly circuit breakers
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Most circuit breakers are "thermal snap" type which take too long to open the circuit, making them unsuited for protecting electronic equipment.