87regal

Most circuit breakers are "thermal snap" type which take too long to open the circuit, making them unsuited for protecting electronic equipment.

Unless you have some serious voltage issues, I bet it's just psychoacoustics at work.

Without knowing the subwoofer, vehicle, etc no one could even begin to answer this question. That being said, run a sweep and find the loudest frequency and there's your answer.

without knowing what subs he is going to get you suggest upgrading power? thats stupid. No such thing as too much head room lol

IMO a waste. Which deadener are you using? The point of CLD is to diminish resonance, which can be accomplished with a single layer of 25-50% coverage in the middle of a panel. true for a flat panel which the trunk lid is not Yup, in that case it should be even easier.

IMO a waste. Which deadener are you using? The point of CLD is to diminish resonance, which can be accomplished with a single layer of 25-50% coverage in the middle of a panel.

Very simple. Higher voltage= less amperage as per Ohm's law( in comparison to the power input of the amp). Then as mentioned the fact it's so short comes into play. Just think of how thin (the inside of)a fuse can be relative to the current it can handle.

Any CLD tile is designed to eliminate resonance. That being said, if you're using a high quality product like SS then a single layer of 25%(IMO 50% at the most) coverage in the middle of the panel will take care of any resonance.

Box rise is different for every situation. If you could plot your impedance profile you would know exactly what's going on.

Any pics of the a-pillars? I would try Ohio Gen, DC power, Mechman, etc.

I bet it's more rigid than MDF

Yeah, then maybe solder it too.

lol just no. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/515724-wire-comparison.html Click that and tell me that they are all the exact same size. Those are obviously not the same cross section or even material. What I was saying was I happen to own cable from weldingsupply.com which is the same as some car audio(don't recall what brand)cable I have. It's common knowledge that not all car audio cable was created equal. We are actually agreeing with each other, no reason to be an ass. But nice link I'll have to bookmark that.

AWG is AWG no matter what it's used for. Also, don't forget to check what material it is made of. Two reasons to only deal with reputable companies. 1/0 awg = 53.5 mm^2 cross section. 4awg= 21.1 mm^2 cross section. So you're right the 1/0 would have more current handling capacity. i didnt mean it like that, i meant the way they rate the wire size and all. car audio rated 0/1 is comparable to 2/0 welding size. Same material, same cross sectional area, same current handling , same shit. My 1/0 welding cable is the same as my 1/0 car audio cable.