87regal

Most circuit breakers are "thermal snap" type which take too long to open the circuit, making them unsuited for protecting electronic equipment.

Unless you have some serious voltage issues, I bet it's just psychoacoustics at work.

Without knowing the subwoofer, vehicle, etc no one could even begin to answer this question. That being said, run a sweep and find the loudest frequency and there's your answer.

without knowing what subs he is going to get you suggest upgrading power? thats stupid. No such thing as too much head room lol

IMO a waste. Which deadener are you using? The point of CLD is to diminish resonance, which can be accomplished with a single layer of 25-50% coverage in the middle of a panel. true for a flat panel which the trunk lid is not Yup, in that case it should be even easier.

IMO a waste. Which deadener are you using? The point of CLD is to diminish resonance, which can be accomplished with a single layer of 25-50% coverage in the middle of a panel.

Very simple. Higher voltage= less amperage as per Ohm's law( in comparison to the power input of the amp). Then as mentioned the fact it's so short comes into play. Just think of how thin (the inside of)a fuse can be relative to the current it can handle.

Any CLD tile is designed to eliminate resonance. That being said, if you're using a high quality product like SS then a single layer of 25%(IMO 50% at the most) coverage in the middle of the panel will take care of any resonance.

Box rise is different for every situation. If you could plot your impedance profile you would know exactly what's going on.

Any pics of the a-pillars? I would try Ohio Gen, DC power, Mechman, etc.

I bet it's more rigid than MDF

Yeah, then maybe solder it too.

lol just no. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/515724-wire-comparison.html Click that and tell me that they are all the exact same size. Those are obviously not the same cross section or even material. What I was saying was I happen to own cable from weldingsupply.com which is the same as some car audio(don't recall what brand)cable I have. It's common knowledge that not all car audio cable was created equal. We are actually agreeing with each other, no reason to be an ass. But nice link I'll have to bookmark that.

AWG is AWG no matter what it's used for. Also, don't forget to check what material it is made of. Two reasons to only deal with reputable companies. 1/0 awg = 53.5 mm^2 cross section. 4awg= 21.1 mm^2 cross section. So you're right the 1/0 would have more current handling capacity. i didnt mean it like that, i meant the way they rate the wire size and all. car audio rated 0/1 is comparable to 2/0 welding size. Same material, same cross sectional area, same current handling , same shit. My 1/0 welding cable is the same as my 1/0 car audio cable.

...not that I like to use them.

Assuming that his electrical is in order and his problem is actually regulator lag, I would like to know why not a capacitor. Please don't tell me "because everyone on all the forums said capacitors are evil" or anything like that.

Do they dim and stay dimmed for as long as the note, or is it just real quick? If it's just real quick at the beginning of the note it could be the regulator lagging. If that's the case you could get HIDs or a capacitor.

AWG is AWG no matter what it's used for. Also, don't forget to check what material it is made of. Two reasons to only deal with reputable companies. 1/0 awg = 53.5 mm^2 cross section. 4awg= 21.1 mm^2 cross section. So you're right the 1/0 would have more current handling capacity.

I totally agree. Far too often people are overusing or misusing sound deadener and it's a crying shame. Personally there are only a handful of products that I would ever consider using and I have stated this many times. For me I use a weird formula based on performance to price ratio x coverage needed to achieve the best results. Example: I have 20 sq. ft. of surface area I need to treat. 25% panel coverage = 5 sq. ft. of material (optional - add 15%-20% more for just in case = about 1 sq. ft. more) Total amount of product needed = 6 sq. ft. Price of top product I am considering - $5.00 a sq. ft. x 6 sq. ft. = $30.00 If cheaper product requires 1.5-2 times as much product, so 9-12 sq. ft., to equal the same results... Price of cheaper product I am considering - $3.50 a sq. ft. x 9-12 sq. ft. = $31.50 - $42.00 This is why the argument from those using two, three, or even four layers of roofing material or even an inferior product is completely asinine because it never comes out cheaper. Ok enough ranting for this morning. I used to be one of those guys before I knew any better. I got the same performance using 25% coverage with quality CLD as 2 layers of quick roof with 100% coverage. It worked out to be a similar price, but the additional install time, finger cuts , and weight make it a no brainer.

CCA vs OFC is also a big factor.

In my opinion the only brands(that I know of) of CLD worth using are Second Skin and Sound deadener show down, based on quality and CS. They are probably the most expensive, but for a reason. If you think you need massive amounts of CLD then you might be going about it the wrong way.

lossless FTW!

brutus is ok, just don't expect rated power.

I believe the reason you did not have any success in a vehicle may have been because your particular design was not suited to work well in a pressurized environment. Generally speaking I have noticed horns, t-lines, etc(I think these type of enclosures would be considered acoustic impedance matching transformers, rather than helmholtz resonators.) work best in open areas and cars like SUVs and Hatch backs. I have been told the cabin is like an extension of the line length. Don't forget Hoffman's Iron law: Small box, low end extension, sensitivity...pick 2 Can't have your cake and eat it too lol As far as the enclosure shapes, I wouldn't worry too much about standing waves inside enclosures. I think it was one of PWKs youtube videos that said you would need an enclosure the size of a small room before standing waves became a problem in low frequencies. There is no BEST alignment. Every situation can be different. As far as the SPL boxes, that is to minimize impedance rise. Looking forward to seeing the results.