alaskanzx5
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Posts posted by alaskanzx5
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someone best post the show on youtube. i have no cable or dish so internet is my only source of tv.
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maybe what you need is an uninterrupted build log?? no more i would have done this or should have done that bs.
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16per cube is way to high for me. Looks like it might end up peaky. You also don't need 7+ cubes, especially due to the power being ran. I would have it around 6.5 cubes and 13 per cube around 32-34hz
you need to catch up buddy, he already made changes and posted a new torres screenshot.
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Update torres, when I did, all my boxes stats where changed
last i checked the new torres is still having issues. this version is the best one currently because it is issue free and still really accurate.
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i dont know much about those subs so i can say for sure if the volume is good but the port look good now.
Alright thank you. The site says ideal at 3.5cuft for 1 15" ported so i figured around 7cuft should do.
if that what the site said then yeah.
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i dont know much about those subs so i can say for sure if the volume is good but the port look good now.
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yes this is for a daily. So i should try and change the tuning and shoot for a smaller port area per cuft
the tuning is fine but you should go for closer to a 14" of port per cuft
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general rule of thumb, port area for a slot port should be between 12-16" per cuft. the more port area you have the peakier it can be where as the smaller the port area the flatter response it can have.
lots of port making a peaky box is good but more for spl only then daily and being tuned at 33hz i doubt you are looking for a spl only box.
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wow, and to think i was perfectly happy with my $800 hp until i started looking at the pc's people on here build. specially after seeing this one.
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Can it be used to figure out what frequency my vehicle peaks at?
if your talking about resonant the best way i know of is a sub in a sealed box and do a tone sweep.
if your talking what you currently peak at do a sweep to then let everything cool back down and the batteries charge up. then get back on the meter and play 2-5 freq from the sweep you did and quickly switch up until the score doesn't go up anymore. write down that freq let everything cool down and batteries charge then play that freq and see if you gain any more from the batteries being fully charged and everything cooled down.
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the internet: you can't post anything on the internet that's not true
I'm a French model.
???
that reminds me of a commercial. lmao, oh how some people are so ignorant.
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from a friend that learned it from a friend. then he introduced me to the friend that taught him then his friend taught me more. from there i have been learning from self experience and from here. a lot more of the in depth stuff with box building and crossovers/active setups have been from here. the basic of wiring from my 2 friends, here and the 12volt source website.
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maybe find people in your area with stereos ranging from 1000watts to 5k watts and then maybe a stereo with 10k,15k and 20k watts to do real world testing on. the 1k-5k testing could be done on cars with and without h/o alts to. give the guys that take time out of their day with helping with the real world testing a good deal on some batts.
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would be nice to see a load test on each battery. test each batter at the recommended wattage. like for say a 1000watt system you suggest x battery, load test that battery as if it was taking a load from a system that does about 1000watts total. i know that a stereo setup wont always or might not ever fully produce that power but it would be nice to see how the battery would respond and work in that kind of situation.
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yeah my summer tires are either 45 or 40 dont remember right off hand. everyone told me the ride would be horrible and i wouldnt be able to put up with it for a week. 2 summers running my 18s with the same series tires now and i enjoy every minute of it.
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hows the ride with the lack of rubber on those wheels? feeling more of the bumps? gotta love some rubber band wrapped wheels on a dd.
get those hids in and pics posted.
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Forgive me, but why have readouts at 10v's and 15v's? Seems like those 6 or 7 "spots" on the face could be more "spots" in the usable range, if you will. I would think with a tighter range it would move smoother.
I dont know about most of you guys, but when I see 12.xx volts, I back it off a bit.
The high voltage guys could have their own...HVM-1.
i think they said they are gonna do a high volt meter to and i would rather have a nice wide range like this. a random voltage spike or drop out of the norm wouldn't be as easily noticeable if the meter had a small range. i know my voltage sits between 13.8-14.4 but lately i have been seeing random moments when it is sitting around 13.2-13.6 or 14.8-15.1, and its a problem i have and i am fixing.
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Will the finished product only have 2 readouts @ 13 volts?
it will probably go like this 13.1, 13.4, 13.7, 14.0
that is exactly how it should be.
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Sounds great for some cheap boxes lmao. I mean lets be honest you paid what? $10 for the boxes. Why ain't the sub ported by the way?
Can't wait to get my punch pro 6" miss they sound great in this video
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I rarely see the SMD being ran at 3500w! I have a SAZ3500 @ .35 and it sounds GREAT all the way up! But it does want more power! I am getting a DDz2 on it and wire it up to 1.4 to be safe! It should be under 7k with rise! But a .35 burp will be tempting! What's the most you've put on one?!?!
my SMD is not on 3500w. There is 2 T2500.1bd on it.....look at the diagram
more like 5-6kw, maybe more depending on rise and what he is listening to.
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one of these right next to the vm-1 would be great. looks like it is the same size, maybe a case to hold them both in?
a package deal with the vm-1 and the wm-1? maybe more depending on what you have instore for us.
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i would have listed it to where it goes head unit on top, then 3sixty, front sound stage, the rear sund stage and then the sub stage. would have been a little bit easier to see but looks good none the less. right before i saw this thread i though about doing this same thing after looking at the rockford sema show line up.
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when having a high output stereo in a car everything has voltage drop. if the headunit isnt getting the power it needs i would only assume the rca voltage would drop aswell.
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There are far too many things to consider when answering this question. After extensive experience with many amplifiers I can say that some are just weird, some amps really shine with certain considerations such as impedance, input voltage, power supply input voltage, etc changed to their liking. Amps are finicky like RAM. Interested to see what Tony has to say but that's my 2 cents.
ive got to agree with this one. even if you have 2 have the exact same amps there could be very slight differences inside the 2 amps that will make the 2 of them react differently to the same rca input voltage and power input.
Certainly between different amps, everyone has had that "golden amp" they hated to get rid of because it was just so good for it's rating.
had a t300.2 the one that looks like the t2000.1 but smaller. put out almost 1000watts. then there is my 1500.1bdcp does 1950 at 1ohm according to the birthsheet.
ive been lucky so far
Two 18" XL box idea
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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dont ask a question for yourself on someone elses thread and there is no way of telling but since your asking 170 at 11hz. smh