alaskanzx5
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Posts posted by alaskanzx5
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That makes sense.
But what could be the reason for the .5db increase with the lower input voltage and gained to match vs the higher input voltage? Also an extra 1500w. Clamped 8500 before(6Vac input), then clamped 10000w after(.35Vac input).
im assuming the .5db increase came from the stronger signal bc it produced a cleaner signal and distorted later than the .35V signal which picked up some alt wine or distortion
therefor the amp could be turned up more without distortion bc of the especially strong clean signal
no, he is saying that the lower input voltage was .5db higher.
my guess is that the amp isnt able to produce as clean of a signal with the higher voltage because the gain cant adjust for it 100% like it can for the lower voltage.
the little bit of distortion from the amp gain setting not being able to adjust correctly for the higher input voltage is what is causing the spl to go down .5db from my understanding.
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so as it is said a higher input voltage can create a better cleaner signal and with a cleane signal you can potentialy push the subwoofers further and harder with more power with out clipping.
then if im reading this right, if the amp was able to except up to a 5 volt input with a 10 volt internal give a 50volt total when correctly set.
so a 1 volt input adust right would give 50 volts like your saying and 5 volt adjusted right would still give 50 volts.
then if you have a h/u that has 6volt preouts going to this amp that can only take up to a 5 volt preout from the hu without clipping you wont be able to correctly adjust the gain meaning you will clip regardless of the gain setting on the amp?
so in the end if you have a cd player with a 6 volt preout and a cd player with a 4 volt pre out and the amp can be set to 50volts with out clipping and has an internal gain of 10 volts the cd player with the 4 volt pre out would be able to allow you to push you equipment to its max with out clipping while the cd player with the 6 volt preout would create more clipping and only hurt the output and sound quality of the system.
and if im right distortion hurts your spl score and so with to much voltage coming in from your rca preouts then what the gain setting on the amp can adjust for you will have distortion lowering you spl?
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Can I just send you 100$ Steve and you put me at the top of the list.. cause I've been checkin this everyday so I don't miss it lol
i know how you feel, i keep putting the money aside then i say oh well, hasnt been released yet and go and spend the money lmao.
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Ya but the illuminated numbers tops it off. This is going to be a really good product. I wonder how the price will compare to the typical stinger vm?
yeah, its been said that thay are gonna be about $70 even after the few changes with lighting up the numbers they are doing.
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I've always been told sub up port back is a good general rule of thumb. If you do go port back you have to make sure you have enough room for the port to breath can make it harder with a bigger box.
At minimum must be the port's width from the the hatch.
yep, my last box had the sub and port facing the same side. had it facing the rear with only about 2" of space with the port being about 4" wide did a 144 turned the box and faced it up did a 146. audio control meter
so what ever design you pick make sure you will have enough room for that port to breath and if you chose to have the port and sub on the same side have it meterd facing every possible direction.
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Yay!! Subwoofer porn is what that is. Dirty, nasty, sexy, naked subwoofer parts!!!!
at this amount of sub porn it should be in the 18+ section
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I've always been told sub up port back is a good general rule of thumb. If you do go port back you have to make sure you have enough room for the port to breath can make it harder with a bigger box.
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When are you going to be opening preorders ?
not until they atleast finish the proto types. gotta have a finished design before being able to sell.
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I need one of these, doing a whole new build and this will realty round it off
Steve if I can find enough people here in Alaska to buy them Is there any way we could get a nice discounted price on the shipping?
they don't weigh much at all so i am pretty sure that the price to ship 10 won't be any different then shipping 1. Therefore it is cheaper by default
that works then, looks like you have atleast 3 people here in alaska waiting to get one of these.
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I need one of these, doing a whole new build and this will realty round it off
Steve if I can find enough people here in Alaska to buy them Is there any way we could get a nice discounted price on the shipping?
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ok guys, i realy need one of these meters asap now. looking at getting a regulator for my alt since my pcm might be creating issues for the upgraded alt and if i do i would like to have one of these meters to better watch my voltage to make sure my alt is performing correctly.
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The depth maybe but I would think everything else will be the same
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Numbers lighting up yet?
thats most likely why they are doing some slight redesign to it. most likely have to make a little room so that they can fit a few leds behind the numbers.
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a high quality product we have to wait for is better then a product that is rushed and of low quality
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LOL, well you enjoy the rest of the summer you have fall is coming
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It's Spring time!
maybe you havent noticed the leaves turning color an falling? the winds blowing?
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the 360.2 is way better, the only real benifit you could have is that you would be getting a cleaner signal to your processor depending on the current h/u you have and the quality of the signal it puts out.
if your using the 360.2 with it then the h/u's eq and crossovers most likely wont even be noticable by ear.
if you want to not use the 360.2 then yes you can run an active setup if you set it up like that. for just a h/u the 80prs is amazing. i have only heard good things about the sq it puts out compared to other brands around that price range.
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deadener is just for rattles but also helps a lot with sound quality. put some on your front doors and the front half of your roof and you will hear the difference.
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if there are hard to get corners use a heat gun besides that i would worry about that to much. but yeah if you only have 20sqft right now do the trunk lid and then listen for more rattles in the trunk and try to pin point all the bad rattles first.
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i didnt have a rollor of any kind and so i used a bottle that was smooth.
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good spots to start at are front doors, trunk, roof, rear doors. then from there you can start doing the pillars and tear the car apart to do the floor.
i noticed a big difference in the front sound stage when i did the front doors and the front half of the roof. dont know what kinda car you have but i also used great stuff foam from walmart in the hatch door to add some weight and strenght to it along with sound deadener and it made a great difference.
i always suggest the front doors and roof because it help with the sound stage and then the trunk because it does help with the sq from the subs and knocks down a good amount of rattle on the inside and outside of the car.
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a few well places white leds with a shroud of some sort to block the white leds from lighting up the whole face of it would work great and still keep the cost down.
also ive seen people aske for white instead of blue but with the white numbering it would help sell to those who wanted white.
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do the numbering in with white leds. it would look great
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I heard 75-85.00 ballpark
Still not done yet.
Plus how ever much the bezel will be.
Id guess 100-110 with bezel
nope...planning on keeping the price around $69 with the bezel.
and thats why we love the SMD and D-Amore products.
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Amplifier question for Mr D'Amore
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
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ive got to agree with this one. even if you have 2 have the exact same amps there could be very slight differences inside the 2 amps that will make the 2 of them react differently to the same rca input voltage and power input.