alaskanzx5
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Posts posted by alaskanzx5
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so if i was to do the round port design above, would these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352 at a total lenght of 13" work for the port?
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i would rather not have to change out boxes. its just me and my wife and its hit or miss with my freinds when it comes to getting help. these speakers and box are no light weight lifting. current box with subs weighed in just below 230lbs. put it in the car by myself and ended up pulling a muscle or something in my back.
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kinda, i want high numbers. this will most likely be my last year actualy trying to win. next year it will be more of just to show up at the shows hang out and compete for the love of the sport. if i go the route of the round ports i could always find a way to make it to where i can change the port just for competing.
even in the current box tuned to 43hz i can still play into the high 20hz. sounds fantasic down to around 30-32hz. changable ports would be nice though.
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^ round port design, could use some help with this one. i do like that it is smaller though, it will allow me to have more room for amp(s) battery ect ect....
^ the modified slot port design, sub up port back. would be able to give a good 4-6" of room between port and hatch lid.
will make a sketch up later but for now do either of those look better then the current? thanks for all the help in advance. trying to get my lows setup and done by the end of the summer and finish my mids and highs this winter. then it on to the performance of the car. got a lot in store for that.
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^as mentioned, already have it sub up port up, thats how i did the 144.5 at 44hz.
i just noticed that the torres calc says port area range 47"-63" and i have it at 67". could this affect the score in a bad way? i should have noticed it before and kept it closer to 55". will make a new box design using round ports and another with a slot port and see what you guys think. they will be subs up port back. just saw on another thread team bassic said that the ford focus loves subs up port back and then there is your advice asweel so i guess i cant realy go wrong with trying.
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^ on the list of things i can try.
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the exact 1st words out of my mouth was HOLY SHIT look at those fucked up sub holes (id trash a box if my holes looked like that)
and also you tune at 45hz so ur trying to go straight spl right(burp only)
didnt put the common walls in when i designed the box but the finale tuning came out at 43.66 hz and those holes where down freehand with a router arent as bad as they look and the subs sit nice and tight. could be better but it was my first time using a router. i do listen to it daily but was aiming for higher number. will make a prettier box later. lol
umm how close is your port to the back. 2ndly its more common subs up port back.
the 144.5 ( highest with the box ) was sub up port up with nothing in the way of the port. when it was facing back i folded the seats down and moved it around. did a 144 at 51 hz about 4-5" between port and hatch lid. went lower when i moved it further away or closer.
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ok, so i had a prefab obcon box with my 2 rockford t2 12s running off a t1500.1bdcp wired at 1ohm do a 146 peaked at 51 hz. the box was either 1.5 or 1.75 per chamber slot ported at either 38 hz or 40 hz cant exactly remember. < port back sub back
now i have a built box 1 chamber at 3.94cuft slot ported at 43.66hz with 67in of port area (16.99 per foot ) did a 144 (back seat folded down ) peaked at 51hz port back sub up and a 144.5 (back seat up, didnt test with it down) peaked at 44hzport up sub up.
i know its a good score for the power and for 2 12s but im shooting for 146+ with the same stuff i have now maybe a change in box. i dont see why i shouldnt be able to do atleast closer to a 146 or why i shouldnt be able to do higher with a better built box then the pos prefab i had.
meter used was an ac-190, sealed on windshield passenger side at the same shop everytime nothing with how it was metered changed.
notice in the screenshot of the box specs i didnt put in the common port walls. changes the tunning and area to 43.66hz and 3.94cuft
the box is now facing up just under the height of the back seat. inside port walls rounded no 45s and 1 peice of threaded rod between subs. double baffle and back < cut an extra peice so i used it.
electrical; 250 amp singer alt, interstate starting batter up front, interstate deep cycle in back either 55hr rate or 65 dont remember right now (750cca), 10farad rockford cap holds around 12volts at idle during the metering. 1/0 front to back then to cap then 4gauge to amp. 1/0 on front batter ground and engine ground, waiting for time in the shop my dad works at to put the 1/0 from alt to battery. < dont say it i already know, i am waiting for money to buy an xs power for under the hood then second xs batt and taking out the cap but it helps by about .3volts which is better then nothing.
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i know i saw a video somewhere but i cant seem to find it. i dont think he has a build log though
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if you go to focusfanatiics.com there is a guy on that forum ( turbo tom ) who can reprogram your ecu and including the charging voltage of the car. the proplem with that is the higher voltage can make the alt wear down faster and possible other issues. the fix to that is have him do 2 different tunes to where one has the higher voltage and you load it into your ecu while competeting and then load the other tune after. a couple of people on the site have already talked about it and i do believe one person already did it.
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^^ if we are thinking of the same person, which i believe we are then he does have a new setup i believe that is louder.
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the alts on the first gen focus are a bit of a pain. not a whole lot of room to work with.
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not sure on the numbers right now but there is someone on this forum i beleive his name is thumper but he has a zx3 that is up there in spl
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either way could work. as long as you keep it air tight after the adjustment is made i dont see why it wouldnt work. would be nice, could change it for high spl then move it back and swap out ports agian for the low lows.
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im thinking airleaks. how are you gonna kep the ported section from having air leaks where the none ported section is attached at. just a few bolts wont make it air tight.maybe some rubber molding that will slide with the box so that when you bolt it in place it smashed the rubber like a gasket.
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2 more short videos.
had audio recording in this one i suggest just turning off the sound on your computer since my phone can in no way record or reproduce the bass.
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well this might be my last year db chasing. considering selling it and just going with a single 10 or 12 when the year is up but after having so much bass i dont know if i could go for such a small amount. if i keep it i will build a new box closer to 35hz so that i can get nice and low. my plans change all the time so only time will tell.
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take the subs out and look at the bottom of them. right on the bottom of the magnet it might have the info for the sub. if not the bottom of the magnet then maybe the side of it. also a picture of how the subs are wired inside the box would help us tell you the ohm load its wired at.
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considering to build another box but tune a bit lower. right around 38-40hz maybe. i will have to wait to see what im doing now since i turned the box. sounds louder but that doesnt always mean it is louder.
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well, tim works here in wasilla so if you talk to him he might give you a demo.
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lol, its not realy demoing in the fred myers lot i work there at night so when we do the parking lot i like to listen to it. make adjustments and everything. but yeah everyonce in a while i will go through mcdonalds to take breakfast home to the wife and kids on my lunch break.
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yeah it was me. i moved it further away from the hatch and did a 143.4 then pushed it agiant the hatch and did a 144. left it like that till the end of the comp but now its facing up almost right at the hatch window and sounds a lot better and is a good amount louder. gonna go down to image audio later this week ( hopefully wednessday ) and have it tested agian. gotta find that sweet spot for the box.
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well, seeing as to how this is a long build and ive got everything but the make it look clean part done as far as the bass goes (mids & highs still need amp + more maybe ) im gonna go ahead and make a build log.
the equipment
sub amp -- rf t1500.1bdcp
subs -- 2 rf t2d412"
sub enclosure -- custom, 4.3cuft tuned high at 45hz 16.xx per foot. slot port. plays into the low 30 decently but anything from about 35-50hz sound real good.
door amp -- rf t400.4bd ( gotta buy )
door speakers -- rf t1 6x8 front and rear ( want a set of t2 6.5 componets for the front )
head unit -- pioneer dont remeber model number but it was one of the nicer hu's in 08 ( dang that thing is old now )
rf hybrid 10farad cap
micheal singer 250 amp alt. doing big 3 soon just got wires for it.
batteries
intersate starting battery 550 cca if i remember right.
interstate rv deep cycle 65ah
will be buying an xspower d3100 for under the hood and most likely a second one for the back.
wires
rf 1/0 front to back power wire
rf 1/0 ground
rf 4gauge from battery to cap - upgrading with 1/0
rf 4 guage from cap to amp
rf 8 guage from amp to subs
will be using 16 gauge for doors
so everything isnt perfect but this is all a learning experience for me. but without more delay some pics.
the car, getting it ready for paint going with the same stock color. wont be painting it untill sometime october/november.
the box
dry fitting
just a rough draft of how it could look measurements might have changed from this sketchup i dont remember for sure though.
2 short videos
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im gonna take a gues that box is bigger then it looks in the pic
a little help/advice would be great.
in SPL - SOUND PRESSURE LEVEL
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yeah i remember seeing you there. what was your score agian?
well if i can gain a little by using round ports i would like to but i do prefer slot port