alaskanzx5
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Posts posted by alaskanzx5
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cockie was getting down, cant wait to see this one in person.
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on the behalf of all fathers out there, the last one is just messed up. thats just sumthing that should not be joked about. also to agree with everyone else that was just stupid.
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loving the upgrade seems to load faster and everything is a lot easier to find.
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you just want to laugh at him lol
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3 12s, 2 foward facinc and 1 up facing port to 1 side facing forward. trunk sealed off. same box dimension but a slot port to either the driver side 5.25" in wide 24" long the net of the box would be 4.61 with out any bracing with the double baffle.
i dont know about those subs but dont most 12"s work best with 2cuft net so you would need 6 cuft. 3 12s in a ported box just wont fit.
maybe 2 12" in a ported box and the a single 12 in a sealed box. or 3 10s, single 15. sorry but the going off the measurements of your box the tunk can only hold 6.07cuft gross when using 3/4? wood. add in the port sub and bracing you have about 4.5-5 cuft to work with.
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as far as designing you a box for those subs i dont have enough experience to give you a design..but im sure theres someone on here who does.. as far as building a box all you really need
1. circular saw
2. jig saw
3. wood clamps (they make it nice)
4. a drill
5. 3/4 mdf board
6. screws
7. titebond II glue
8. caulk (for the seems
9. wooden dowel rods for bracing
10. basic carpentry skills
this is a good list to make the job easy. i never used wood clamps just tons of screws. didnt have a jig saw either so i drew out the cut for the sub and then used a drill and just did a whole lot of drilling to get the hole cut and cleaned it up with a file and sand paper.
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yeah you could gain match the amps but to be safe i would do 2 seperate boxes or chambers.
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same reason i wouldnt use the 2500. rockford needs make actualy make a speaker that can handle their own amp. biggest ive seen is 3430 at 1ohm and for 2 speakers thats a good 1700watts rms each rf best subs are the t2 and they only rate them at 1200rms. i destroyed a single t2 12 off of a 1500.bdcp birthsheet says 1790watts at 2ohms. had it setup like that for 6 months bumping for about 1/2 hour - 1 hour 5 days a week.
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i see no issues there. should put the sealed box upfront and the ported box in back then swap it around to see what placement for the boxes soundes best to you.
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as long as the subs have their own chamber its fine but you would be better of building a box with seperate chambers or 2 boxes. seeing that the ceapest price i saw on that box is 300 you clould build 2 boxes that would perform better for less then $150.
also from the looks of it the design is cut into the 3/4"mdf they use so the wood is weaker from it. couldnt find what the port area is or what the tuning is. would be way better off building a box.
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ok, i know some stupid people but come on. lmao
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well, if you got a second ebay alt and ran both you would be able to get better output but you should just post the pos on ebey for $100 then buy an actual highoutput alt.
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the t2500 would allow you to put both subs in the same box but with the t1000.1 you should use different boxes because the output on the amps would be different. then with the 2500.1 you would have to get an alt. the 2500.1 takes like 200-250amps on its own. using the 2500 would certainly cost a pretty penny. then there is the 3rd option of a t1500.1bdcp in wich i have 2 t2 12s running off of one. havent tested this setup but with a single t2 12" off the 1500.1 at 2 ohms i did a 143.9. the box was about 2cuft tuned at about 40 hrz( suggested box in manual for the sub). with a proper box i see no reason why i couldnt have done better but i knew i was gonna get another 12" so it was just for the time being.
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hmm. same hu as me, works great though doesnt it?
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if im not mistaken as long as the part is secured to the vehicle using bolts,nut,screws or some sort of braket it can and should be taken care of by the insurance company of the person that caused the accident. also for an additional price your insurance might cover any upgrades to the vehicle as long as it is fastened to the vehicle in one of the above mentioned ways or of a similar way. aftermarket parts that are not secured in one of those ways are considered an accessory and may or may not be coverd in an accident depending on the insurance company. I do know that when i was 7 we got rear ended and some soda we had broke open and their insurance covered it because it was part of are groceries. they also offered to have the back carpet steam cleaned but the van was junk anyways so it was tossed and the insurance money spent on another car.
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yeah i had my single t2 in a 3cube box and it did great. altough from the smaller box and the bigger box there was no difference on the metter both tuned the same.
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the slot ported box they say to build works great. i bought a t2d412 and then built the recommended box for it and took 1st place in my class at 2 db drags. got a 143.9 meter on the windsheild windows up doors closed. of course that was with a rf t1500.1bdcp but the box was great. sounded good. got low and loud.
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and if he is asking because he already has subs that he could only wire to .5 or 2ohm?
then he needs to wire at 2 ohm and if he wants more power wich is the only reason for him to want to wire to .5ohms then he would be better off with a bigger amp rather then destroying the 1000.1
besides isnt it the lower the ohm the more heat and distortion? if im not mistaken on that then going to .5ohms would not make sense seeing how he could get the same amount of power at 2ohms from a different amp.
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I would guess he recommended upgrade power over running at .5ohm..that makes sense really..why run an amp at .5 if its not stable?
exactly my point. also if he wants to run .5ohms rather then 1 ohm then he already wants more power. in return a different amp would be a better choice.
by the way, running that amp at .5ohms is what would be stupid. ruin a $700 amp while vioding warranty, pocket killing mistake.
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step it up to the 1500.bdcp not much in price difference and at 1 ohm it can put out 1800-1900 watts rms. if you use the 1000.1bdcp then dont wire it at .5 ohms i dont think its stable besides the power difference would be so small it wouldnt realy matter
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you do lose some power from it. rockford has a chart and section on their site that helps with figuring out the amount of power being lost.
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yeah, how much you selling those bad boys for? lol, they look great
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i did give step by step directions lmao.
i understand i did my first box with no help. if you know some one that has wood working experience i suggest you ask them for help.
as for screws it depends on the thickness of the wood. for 3/4" wood i would use atleast 1 1/2" long wood screws i prefer 2". test fit the pre drill. take a peice of scrape wood and drill a hole with a slightly smaller drill bit then the screw. then put the screw in the test hole. if it goes it nice and snug its good. if you have to realy work it in might want to try a drill bit bigger. if it goes in real easy the hole is to big.
Termlab/O Scope access list!!!!! DD-1 added to the list!!!!
in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Posted
i see that the first post doesnt list anyone for alaska with a dd-1, just wondering if by chance there is anyone in alaska with one. would realy like to get my amp set right.