alaskanzx5
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Posts posted by alaskanzx5
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this is the order you do it in
pre dill, glue, screw. then for all the inside corners you should put a sealent to make sure its air tight.
to pre drill the hole you need to line the wood up how it will be when its done then drill the holes. i suggest doing one in each coner first and then putting in a screw so that the box cant move or shift while drilling.
take the screws in the corners out then use wood glue to put the box together. do one side at a time and screw the boards together so that it will apply preasure to the glue so that it gets a good strong hold and hopefully fill in any air gaps.
as you put the box together you will want to put some sealent ( i use liquid nails ) in the corners so that any slight air hole can be filled/covered so that there is no chance of air leaks.
let it all dry overnight, the next morning clean off any extra glue from the outside of the box. take some wood glue and sawdust mix it together and use this on top of the screw heads to cover them. then as your choice cover the box in fabric or paint it. you can also paint and upholster the the box.
FYI if the box is ported your should also atleast roung off all the edges of the port walls inside and out. better air flow
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you can ground to the chasis of the jeep but you should keep it /0 gauge like the battery upfront 2 runs of 4 gauge would work though. also ive heard that running the ground from the back battery to the battery under the hood can give a better ground. my choice on this matter is grounded the back battery to the chasis and to the front battery so that it will follow the path of less resistance so that wich ever might be the better ground is the one it follows naturaly.
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umm, you want the port to be more of in the 30-38hz range with 14-16 sq inches of port per sq foot of box for a slot port and i think it was 9-13 for aero ports
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10s ported, ported subs in a hatch sound fantastic
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ok, so i did some redesigning to the box to drop the port area from 17+ to 15.5-16. same basic design just a slightly smaller box and port tune to 37-38 hz. ( dont remember all specs off the top of my head )
Now what im trying to accomplish is go from the 143.8 i did with the single 12 i had to a 145+ with the 2 12s i have. i am not increasing power by much. going from 2 ohm on 1 sub to 1 ohm on 2, power will maybe go up by 100watts rms (amp birthsheet 1780x1@2ohm 1880x1@1ohm). beside adding anohter sub and better box build i will be adding a 220amp mechman alt (stock alt 110amp? i think) and if i can gather the money before the first comp i will be adding a xs power battery.
with the added sub, box build, and alt do you think it could be possible to break 145.
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ok, and your not him to each his own if he wants 4 12s the let him do 4 12s. honestly though if you dont have the space then you dont have the space. maybe 3 12s or 4 10s instead"
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i noticed most were rear wheel drive, they didnt do bad at all just nicer for there to be a small track of somekind so that you can realy practive control in the snow. i wouldnt call a fwd in snow drifting either, i just simply call its snow drifting or playing in the snow. fwd do great in snow though, its all throttle control in a rear wheel drive good throttle control and you can realy get going. with fwd you have to kinda feather the ebrake and throttle to get going good.
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we do it on frozen lakes, open lots, roads, it dont matter the car came equiped with an ebrake for a reason.
most of those people driving in that video seemed to only know how to whip around. set up a figure 8 track using cones somewhere and practice controled slidding. its nice to see people going sideway on snow track with control. dont get me wrong im not hating some of them did good but i would rather see more controlled slidding then just whipping around. i spend a lot of time playing in the snow with my car though, 5+ hours a week. i have hour lunches so it gives me time to practice and learn.
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ok, 1st the rf 1500.1bdcp usaully do 1800-1900 at 1 ohm 1700-1800 at 2ohm, i wouldnt push those subs passed 1000watts a peice so even at 1 ohm doing 1900 watts you will only be at 950 per so your good. second, you will need a second battery maybe more. these amps are beast i have one. it will get those subs moving great and if you can get the amp for 350 thats a great deal dealers pay about 500 a piece on them. you should consider saving up for a ho alt. make sure you build a box for those subs to, take some time designing it and brace the box fairly well.
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4 12s in a wall
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the 2 18s and the 2500.1 could do 150plus if you build the box right and you will have to up your electrical. it would easier to reach 150 if you double up on the subs and amps
seen 4 t2 12s running off a single t2500.1bdcp hit a 150.8 with a stock electrical system in an escalade
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wouldnt it depend on the effeincy of the amp?
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escorts are not that bad, not the best looking but not bad. secondly go to some local car shoes and bass comps and check out what everyone is using and what sound good to you. secondly if money isnt an issue and you realy want some bass your gonna want atleast 1500watts + + +. last but not least, if you realy did research like you said you did then you wouldnt need to know what size wire or what brands are good.
do your research dont just say you did
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not sure with those subs but most 12s need about 2 cuft of airspace after port bracing and sup displacement. then with a ported box i know most people seem to tune around 32-35hz im tunning around 35-40hz. so in the end you will need a box with atleast 4cuft net of airspace and have it tuned to where you like it with about i would say 16 sq in per foot.
a box at about 15" high 32.5 wide and 25.5 deep would give 4.06cuft net for the subs slot ported tuned to 37hz with 15 sq in of port per foot, the port would be 2.5" wide with a total lenght of 22". would have a double baffle and you would have .06cuft that you could use up for bracing and 45s in the corners. should sound nice in a box like this but im sure someone will chime in with a more knowlege on those subs
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you ever get those t2s meterd? and how much power you running to them?
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dang, i wish i had your weather right now. winds getting up to 60-70mph and a few feet of snow. sand blasting your face from them putting sand down and the wind just blowing it in your face. all those people that think a few inches of snow is bad are retarded. a few inches is a day of fun in the snow with your ride.
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so is the 17,78" per sq foot of port gonna be to much? i know that the rule of thumb is 14-16 sq" if it would be better for me to go lower i can ( would save trunk space for battery and amps anyways )
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From watch many videos online, I came come to see, that boxes with big ass ports, always shake the hell out of the the car they are in. I will be getting 2 SA-12's and having a slot port box with a 4.25" port, will have about 17-18" per for port area.
and ive got the same plan for my 2 rf t2 12, lol
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i didnt know that, ive only done a few comps here in alaska and all the ones ive been to are done according to iasca guidlines. Not apart of the iasca season but they just follow their guidlines. i know that what ever meter they do use though doesnt change from show to show ( with the exeption of one show where they didnt seem to know how to use it correctly )
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some one pointed out to me that i do need to put 3 for common walls and i did but it doesnt change the box enough for it to make a difference worth adapting to.
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that not a bad setup specialy to do a 151 then jump that much more. just figured everyone here would like to hear what the equipment was that made it possible
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1. 06/30/2002 - 151.2 dB
to
07/28/2002 - 171 dB
Holy crap that's a huge gain!Yup, those were the days I experimented a lot and didnt have a meter, so I found out things at the show.
And I remember the one on April of 03, 1 show on a saturday I thought I'd have thin competition so I showed up with 1 woofer running off a 400w amp. And a guy beat me, so I showed up the next day for the next show with 2 subs and a 1500w amp
whats subs and amp that a huge increase from that change none the less a 151 on a single sub with 400 watts
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also i will double up on all the outer walls making it 1.5" thick
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ok, i finally had some time to complete the design for the box. if my guess is right i will even still be able to fit both the mid range and sub amps along with the extra battery and cap all in the trunk with the box. if not oh well i can figure it out when the time comes.
well here are the dimensions and sketch-up of the box. hope you like. wont be starting the actual build for about 2 months to cold outside.
there will be a single brace between the 2 sub, a 2x4 with the cornors rounded off also the port walls will be rounded the cornors of the box will all have 45 in them.
Holy crap that's a huge gain!
Ported Enclosure help / 4th order please
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
should consider a brace inbetween the subs.