alaskanzx5
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Posts posted by alaskanzx5
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just remember that expanding foam by itself doesn't actually do anything to filter or block noise its only useful as a physical barrier preventing something from moving... it can be very effective in certain situations
IMO using expanding foam in areas like the trunk loud (added weight/mass) and to the roof support braces/beams can effectively stop rattles/flex with the use of less deadener.
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Consider using expanding foam in gaps? I did it in the hatch door of my other focus and it made a good difference as far as vibrations him flex go.
If the goal is to reduce flex start with adding some where you have lots if flex them looking for more rattles it flex to fix. Once you think you have most of that taking care of work on using the foam passing stuff to block airborne Boise. Do it all in steps to get the result you want.
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this build is looking promising. 1400watts on 2 15s, cant wait to see all 4 up and running with those 9k's.
just remember all good things take time. nothing that is good comes easy or quick and everything that is easy and quick just aint worth it.
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I would have tried to come around and throw a home made spike strip in front of their truck before they got back to it. watch them pull away and blow out all their tires.
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yeah i figure straight out the box will be actual resting voltage. just saying that comparing it to someone else that got say a 12.8 reading is pointless. you dont know if they let their battery sit for the full time period required in order to get a true resting voltage reading.
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aren't you suppose to also let it sit not charging and disconnected from other batteries for 24hrs before checking resting voltage? at least ive seen that mentioned somewhere on this forum.
12.5 is good imo, better then non agm batts that sit around 12.2-12.4
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ib4 shit storm lol.
hopefully it doesn't go that route but there has been more then one thread showing the typical way to clamp not being accurate that didn't end so well.
this was a great idea though, using bulbs instead of car audio. take the car audio out of the factor and maybe people will understand the truth behind it.
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I was sitting in my car when a chick in a van full of idiots parked next to me. now they where angled parking spots an all the parking lanes where one way. she went the wrong way and parked straight into the parking spot on my passenger side. I was waiting for my wife to come out of the store. I noticed the spot on the other side of them was open and if I parked correctly I would be blocking the back of their van and wouldn't be able to get out. so of course I moved and blocked them in. they came back out pissed and yelling about having a party to go to. I laughed and told them ill leave when im ready to. from there they threatened to call the police for me blocking them in. told them go ahead your double parked im legal. said they are going to just get in and push my car out of the way I pointed up at a camera. rolled my window up ate a sandwhich then left. they went to take off out the parking lot when I cop saw them swerve past us and almost swipe a semi.
they had a bad day all for double parking and in a hurry to get to a party. was a 7 passenger van with like 9-10 people in it to, lol.
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got to love those pioneer head units. they like to play clean way up there in volume.
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a lot of people use 12 gauge for subs. I prefer 8gauge but that's just me.
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if the battery under the hood isn't an agm don't mix them. it (from my understandings) can lower the life of the agm batteries.
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gotta look flashy only reason i didnt get a bunch of things listed that arent the same brand keep in mind rockford puts out and handles more then what their rated at most rockford amps put out 50% more wattage then shown that amp i linked is 3500 watts max on a testing machine
Coming from someone that talks about max rating of his subs, learn something before giving advice.
Yes Rockford puts out more then rated but not 50% more. The t1500.1bdcp for example is at most 300-400 watts less then what the birtsheet says. Birtsheet mean nothing in the real world. That's on a resistive load with optimal power supply. In a car you have impedance rise, music (dynamic), voltage drop, ect ect...
Or we could all live in fantasy land and believe max power ratings.
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haven't heard from him I figured he was banned by now. hmm.. so then he has most likely been reading this stuff thinking to himself why did I dig such a hole?
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its a shame sintorman was banned before he could have seen tony's reply. that would have but funny.
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^^ the priceless moments of smd, it's not all car audio on this forum. We have people study the science of car audio and car electrical all around, car customization, even other hobbies outside of the car scene completely. Then, there are these moments where someone entirely says he is against a great product then on another Forum/Facebook they talk the product up for all of us to laugh at.
This forum is great.
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my post was referring to cj18.
I think it will help end the aurements all together.
imo the vid was to compare it to the easiest way to clamp found on google. getting mad that it was compared to what people commonly consider clamping is pointless. if you know a better more accurate way of doing it great for you. however the comparison was to show how the most commonly used method of clamping is not accurate and unreliable for results and isn't even rms output but rather VA.
if you want to get mad that they basically said clamping with a dmm and clamp meter is not accurate but the amm1 is then o well your issues not ours so go beat off In a corner. no one was putting down the less known, more expensive, time taking easily error method of clamping that can give more accurate results if done correctly. they where only saying the use of a dmm and clamp meter is not accurate or true rms power from an amp.
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how about you just do a correct clamping method vid and then at the end of clamping the amp use the amm1 to show how much faster it is and if there is a difference (which im sure there will be) will just show that the amm1 is faster easier and more accurate then clamping all together. at the end of the vid have a list of everything the amm1 can do.
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Google search clamping and see what you find, I don't find much of anything about the use of a scope or true rms meter.
From what I see the common methods of clamping is dmm and clamp meter then multiply the result for wattage.
That method being what is easily found on a google search id more misleading then the vid in this thread. the vid shows the most.widely used form if clamping being less accurate then the amm1. The video isn't saying that's the correct way, it's just simply the way that most people do it because it's what info is easily found online for measuring output of an amplifier.
Yes there is a correct way to clamp that takes time money and effort. Not to mention can easily have errors due to the human factor. People aren't perfect and make mistakes.
The Amm1 has accuracy, convenience, easy transportation, and can earn money back for you. Get the amm1 charge friends 5-10 per amp tested. Say you get 4 friends all with 2 amps, at 5 an amp you make $40, Could make that money in Ann hour or 2 all on the same day. That's $20-40 per hour under the table and who wouldn't want to make that much money per hour? Try to do that with even the cheap in accurate clamp method with just a dmm and clamp meter. Wouldn't be.able to get.that many amps tested using a true rms and scope either.
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From what I saw in the vid the used what most people do for clamping. a in if you google search you weep find more people doing it that way then not.
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the dyno was made to.try and help give an accurate industry standard. Not the consumer a usable to for testing their amps in their car like the.amm1.
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yes, but the dyno is a commercial product where as the amm1 is for consumers.
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Tony said bucket.. I didn't. And you are jealous of my bucketso I can buy all those tools and a concrete bucket or 1 single tool?
geez, tough choice. but I do see that guys point, this isn't the only tool that works. But, I will let him use the concrete bucket...
Very professional man. I love when I see company owners in the thick of it making themselves look bad.Do we have anyone art-sy in here? I'd love to see a sketch of a guy dynoing an amplifier with a bucket of concrete with a pos scope, a voltmeter, a clamp meter, and a calculator attached to it.
By high frequency I meant in the mhz... It can go to 20khz just fine. Since that is what most scopes are used for....I think the vid is being seen in the wing way, it's not that they are saying clamping is flawed. It's the typical way it's done that is flawed. Using just a dmm and clamp meter won't get the true rms results. That's the clamp method I see more often the not. I've seen maybe 2 vids where people used a scope.
I see this video as a comparison between a cheap in accurate way to clamp vs a tool that has proven accurate results.
Also i'm I wrong to think that a scope that can't measure higher freq (tweets and higher mid range freq in particular) isn't a good choice? If I want to measure out put of an amp I would like to see the output of each amp for every speaker in my system and not just the sub amp. It would be nice to know actual rms going to the other speakers. If you can't use the scope for those tests you can't accurately measure for those speakers.
Ic. Didn't see anything on the score that.said freq range. Them again, I don't know much about them.
I'm still on board with the amm1. I mean like you said with the tools you listed, and a resistive load bank that 350 plus shipping cost if each part so i'm sure s could agree at $400 after shipping and everything. For $60 more plus shipping I can get the amm1 fir a much quicker more portable tool. I think the $60 is worth the convenience and accuracy of the tool. we all know there are always.discounts that they do on these tools to make the price that much better for us smd members.
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I think the vid is being seen in the wing way, it's not that they are saying clamping is flawed. It's the typical way it's done that is flawed. Using just a dmm and clamp meter won't get the true rms results. That's the clamp method I see more often the not. I've seen maybe 2 vids where people used a scope.
I see this video as a comparison between a cheap in accurate way to clamp vs a tool that has proven accurate results.
Also i'm I wrong to think that a scope that can't measure higher freq (tweets and higher mid range freq in particular) isn't a good choice? If I want to measure out put of an amp I would like to see the output of each amp for every speaker in my system and not just the sub amp. It would be nice to know actual rms going to the other speakers. If you can't use the scope for those tests you can't accurately measure for those speakers.
Project D.G.A.F - the SMD Tercel - 4 15" LVL 5 Walled - 16v, DC Audio 9.0k's 18v EARLY SPL results pg 28 new Podium Page 33
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
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A will be waiting. You just sit back and heal up