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Posts posted by wL<3bass
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I played in top leagues in AA and CoD2 and plantronic .audio350s were good enough for me, with a good sound card I could easily outplay people with far better headphones in AA which was a game were sound was as important as sight.
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Have you tested it? Also can you take pcitures with a DMM reading each of the coils, and pictures of the coils themselves? Also in the pictures what are those marks on the spider near the tinsel leads?
Sorry for all the questions but after the last few speakers I've bought being blown without my knowledge I'm gonna be picky about stuff like this.
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Oxygen - ruckspin and planas
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AA havoc, a lot of the woofers mentioned are not recommend for sealed enclosures...
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8 times... dude is an absolute monster...
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Great jacob now you got me wanting to play with 8s again... Lol
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I usually use 14-20sqinches for my rule... Sometimes more than 20 is applicable.
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Is it gonna have a surround like the one in the model or a tall roll so its increases the effective cone area?
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I don't understand the need for an 8 to use 1000wrms daily...
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There is a set of 15" lvl5s in the FS section...
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I def give up that space for ported over sealed
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For reference, JL recommends that the 13w1v2 (with a 21hz FS) be tuned to 26hz with an F3 of 26hz, it played very well in the low frequency region and still have plenty of topend output, but a very very good bottom-end for a speaker of its RMS.
Just to give you an idea about low tuning and manufacture specs.
So I think you'll be alright, and you said you want it for DVD use, you gonna need that extra lowend extension... I say go for it.
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Those amps aren't exactly known for doing rated power...
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Read the other thread where you said it was working very well in daily apps and didn't lose any low-end response... Just curious what would be a good daily rms for the new coil, with no clipping and common sense? Think it could take 6-800wrms?
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Anyways I'm off tomorrow, if I remember I'll borrow my dads good tap and die set and come tap it, and go to ace to get some bolts...
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Who got it out? Me... Who hauled it? Me... Yeah you helped but I'm tried of never getting credit for anything, by anyone. /rant
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That we, as in I took the old one out and my brother put the new one in... and yes it is...
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He broke part of the motor mount first because he didn't put all his motor mounts on and was powershifting it racing me and snapped it off... his time the bolt and aluminum block couldn't handle the load, the bolt is have snapped in partially in half, and bent... The threads are non-existant in the block... I already told him to retap the block with a larger bolt and this time threadlock them in... and part all his motor mounts on this time
It'll be my brother or I fixing it so we got it handled...
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If you wanna run 3k and be able to play it full tilt for more than 30sec-1min then get an alt... Go with the biggest you can get for your car, that's what I did, then you never need to upgrade... well useless you go duals lol...
Like Chris said I'd choose another brand. I like Dc Mechman is good too.
I know Rob at DC has helped me out and hooked me up.
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I did 3k 105amp alt with 2 stinger spv35 and a kinetik hc2400, driving I'd see 11s almost instantly... 10s at idle... took about 30minutes of playing the new system to realize I needed an alt.
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I like my super 44 on my blazer only muffler that tones down the raspy sound of a 90 degree V6 at high rpm.
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It's pretty bad when you can sit beside civics in parking lots and flex them with your stereo lol
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I try to stick halfway in between the recommended volume... in the case with my model of BL I have always ran larger than specified and more than rms power... depending upon the woofer... I usually run 16-20sqinches of port port cube more SQ oriented subs I run 12-14sqinches of port per cube.
Your systems "ratio" (bass/mids/highs)
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
Are we counting tweeters as individual speakers?