Neal82

?!?!?

wow, really noone?

I Traded 2 of my old 10's for these 2 15s and 3 brand new Polk PA660 4 channel amps. granted the 10s were bad ass and the kid emails me EVERYTIME he makes kids cry with the 12s and 15s their running... lol anyway I listen to ALL muzik. Rap (for demos usualy) Pop, classic rock... pretty much anything.

I have 2 15s Im going to be putting into my boat, but now I need a new motor for the boat... so untill im able to put it in there I want to build a box that will do well in an inclosed vehicle as well as a boat. Dimensions im using is 34" W 18.5"H 20"D That puts the box @ 5.82³ Max ported air space for these subs are 3³ each so 5.82³ minus sub displacement and port displacement should put it just over 5-5.4³ but im trying to decide on where to tune it... when figureing it out for the boat everyone said 45-50Hz but I am a FEEL the bass kinda guy id rather you loose your breath then to be heard from miles away. Subs are American Bass DX-15s Single 4ohm wired to 2ohm ran at their full tilt 500rms each. Im going to be putting the subs on the 34x18.5" face (of course) but putting the port on the side on the 18.5x20" side so i have roughly 30" of port i can squeeze into it.. lol so that'd put it at 33Hz so I can get 33+Hz outta the box... so what should I shoot for?!?!?!??!!??!?!

Heres what I got, I havent figured out whats going from end to end and what pieces are going inside so you can subtract 3/4" on like top and bottom 34"x24" x4 Sides 18.5"x34" x4 Top & Bottom 18.5"x24" x2 Back 18.5"x19" x2 Front 14"x16" x2 Port (this one has the 1 1/2" subtracted) 22.5"x16" x2 Sub Face (this one also has had the 1 1/2" subtracted) and its tuned to like 53Hz

Nope, pretty sure I need 3! lol Altho im sure i could slim this down, Cause i think the front chambers like 3.5³ and the front chambers 2.5³

Haha, well when arguing with the wife $60$ is alot... lol You dont think MDF fully covered in a Rhino Lining type rubber coating sound deadner would do better?

Building 2 boxes for my boat... im trying to save a few $s by building the box out of 3/4" MDF and was thinking about coating the whole thing with a rubber undercoating material like rhino lining or something, since MDF will pretty much disinergrate when wet. The boxes will be 100% covered, inside and out (they're 4th order boxes) WATCHA THINK?!?!??!?!? option A - 3 Sheets of 3/4" MDF + Enough coating will be Under $100 Option B - 3 Sheets of treated plywood, will be over $120 Option C - 3 Sheets of Marine plywood, will be over $150

No, its totaly open in the front and the back would be open to the transom area which would almost work as a trunk its pretty enclosed......

Hmmm does this work? I have no idea how the resonance would work in this box. (blue parts plexi)

I think I did... sent u a msg... not sure if theyres an actual IM type msging deal here.....

Edit this whole post... nvm... i can just put some plexi or lexxan on the face to see in... it'd work better that way actualy cause of the top will have a cushion on it so you wouldnt be able to see in anyway... ugh... like i said, shits giving me a headache.... So pic above is the box!!! hopefully will be building in the next week or 2, Gotta get my dust caps ordered and the vinyl printed to them..

Hmmmmmm, So I know im really getting into some rough territory trying this.... but doing a wedge/wedge style so i can plexi part of the top cause i was wanting to do some custom dust caps with my old company logo on em hmmmmmm....... SHIT

Ha, so I found a "4th order bandpass" Calculater.... hmm... yea that shits like Egyptian to me... Ugh... screw it... ill just throw it together and see what happens!! lol Let me know what you think, and I got this thing to as close to 1:1 as possible!!!!

k, so I guess I assumed something going into this prebuild that I guess I shoulda asked.... so im at www.The12Volt.com and im trying to figure out the port specs for tuning.... well that calc is setup for a ported box... not what im doing... So do I 1. Use the OVERALL box ³ to figure out port... 2 Use the Sealed chamber to figure out port... 3. Use the ported chamber to figure out port... I got the new (REAL) measurements so i'd like to get this figured out K, so if its PEAKIER at say.... 46Hz then anything beyond + or - 10Hz wont be *clean??

Explain peakier... *higher cut off freq?* warmer day today... going to go get actual measurements, after the Wife goes to work...

Hmmmm.... kk scrap those #s.... Rear Chamber 22.5 x 16.5 x 12.5 = 2.685 Front Chamber 22.5 x 13.5 x 17.5 = 3.076 (port displacement calulated into that) Port 22.5 x 3 x 16 = 46Hz Sub displacement 2.862 So, its more like 1:1.5 but to get the Freq i need i think thats what its going to have to be. Edit - The total Length is 33"

Building a 4th order box for a 15" Sub... well actually 2 of them for my boat. what info ive gotten from last thread that disapeared was that i need to keep the box as close to 1:1 as possible should be ported to 45-55Hz These will actually be the rear seats so my measurements (rough, to cold to go get actuals) Box 20"W x 20"H x 25"D Port 18.5"W x 6"H Tuned to 48Hz says i need a 16.5"D port Does that sound about right? Or should i tune it lower? BTW that each box.

So 4th order it is... is there any calculations you need in figuring out a 4th order?

Ha, if you decide to use new subs... bet you could get a pretty penny for the 4 you have now... sell as Original collectibles... GUARENTEEEEEED they'd sell QUICK! Or put em up in the shop in a nice glass case

Yea this isnt a bad ass cigerette boat or anything... just a good ol 20' Thompson Deep V (I can go out on the great lakes with mine ) Got it on trade last year and actually used it EVERY weekend... 2x 25gal tanks on it and a inline 6 psh went out 12 times and used just a 1/4 of a tank... lol thats 1/4 of ONE of the tanks i havent even put gas in the other one yet.

Thank you guys... this is the info i was looking for Yea i have the room i do believe for the 2 15s up front ill seal em up and throw some of that spray waterproofing suff you can buy for shoes and such ive heard thatll flex more then enough for the surround... I think im just going to throw a small amp on them for now see how it goes.. they handle 500rms each and i know under powering isnt the best for subs... but i dont want to possibly add stress fractures to the front of the boat... dont wanna get into that massive fiberglass project lol Ill for sure be taking a bunch of build pics when i start.. like i said as it sits its not a bow rider (no seats in the front only under bow storage) were going to cut all that out and put in the sub box get then build the seats off of that then fiberglass it all in (weather protection more then anything...) It ought to be a fun project Heres a pic of the idea were going to use for the boat. The front part of the seat (the 6sided part) is going to house the subs.. and they are going to fire under each of the other seats and then into the boat... should be enough to get some good reflection

Really? A CAR audio site? You thought we knew all about boat stuff? I mean I know it's related buy a boat is not the same thing as a car. Its not that far off... i just want to know the best box setup... If you sat a box on the ground in your drive way, wich box would sound the best... yes i will have the sides of the boat for sound to bounce off of... the subs will also have a 2.5-3' tunnel the sound/air will be moving thru before it reaches the open area of the boat. Ive seen alot of pictures of them just being placed into the under part of the seat pointing inwards.. but having 3 kids im not risking that and i dont think that will give the best sound.... just looking for someone with some boat knowledge... and 99% of people that have shops and do car installs have done ATV/Motorcycle/Boat/and everything else.... those are the people im looking for No pics.. its put up for the winter. 4th order still has the rear of the sub ported correct??? The subs are not marine rated unfortunatly... so they will be sealed.