KickerAudio21

i'm happy with the box design you guys reccomended. i don't understand the 90 inch squared of port. Does that mean regardless of how tall my box is , the port will take up 90 square inches on the bottom board??? casue then the poort could vary depending on how tall my box is. I'll tell ya right now my box will be 17-18 inches tall, 37.5" wide, and however many inches deep (external dimensions).... I just dont understand how to make the port of my box "crx style" like the picture on page one, and follow the 90 square inces of port....

too bad I am a member on that forum and scott or nick seem nonexistant to my post.... also, noone has a box exactly like mine under the fi tech thead that i can find, fuck it i'll just use win ISD, i'm tired of trying to figure it out. I''m just thinking too hard, that's what happens when u are a math/engineering major

how do i get hold of scott???? [email protected] does not work, or i never get reponses...... does anyone know a phone number??? i dont' care if he doesn't like phones, he shouldn't be running a business, if they are not able to be gotten hold of.

so if my box was 1ftx1ftx1ft the port woudl be 14.28 sq. feet x 12" high???? in addition to the 1 cubic foot volume??? length x width is a 1st order dimension..... doesn't do me too much good when i'm in a second order world (3 dimensional). i'm still troubled. I sent scott an email about 2 weeks ago asking when my sub was gonna be shipped, and he still hasn't answered,. The only response i get is [email protected] - and i need to start box construction tomorrow.

I think i'm just stupid, but fi recommends 12-16 inch ^2 of port for each cubic foot of volume. Accordman or someone said to do 6.3 cubes and 90 sq. inch of port. WTF i'm in a 3 dimensional world, what does 90 in^2 mean?!?!? i tried doing 90 cubic inches of port but the port is frickin small, and doesn not make sense. So is there supposed to be a thrid dimension to the 90 in^2??? or do they mean to actually square the 90 inches (which is different than 90 in ^2)........ someone please help

I will use adequate bracing, idk if i'll use wood or a couple of threaded rods.... One question I had is: to avoid using speaker wire terminals, I've seen a lot of ppl on here using like a long nut and some bolts that goes through the wood??? Where do you get those things, and are they as conductive as using a terminal?

I discovered google sketchup today, here is a conceptual sketch of my box - nothing is really to dimension, and i'm a noob at this program (this is what i could come up with in 20 mins)

idk dude, i just wanna hit this on the money first time, becuase i'm gonna do a really niec box, i'm sick of doing simple installs.

so you personally have built boxes for fi q 18"s??? so i'm looking at 6.3 cubes, and 90 sq. inch port, will give me tuning about 33 hz. Sounds like a good combo. Seems like you have experience wtih this setup?? How many watts have you seen run to them. I only have a hifonics 1206d which is about 1000rms. What have you seen run to them? btw, thanks a ton for the help!

I like the size of 6.3 feet. So this will be a pretty good all around tuning? Just for reference, what tuning is it, so i can compare it to winISD for fun. Either way i'll prolly go with it becaues i've heard from ppl that a smaller ported box is somewhat louder (like 6 is small, 8 is big). Thanks for input, and i encourage anyone else to throw in ideas as well. Also, what do you guys think about my box design....? I'm also open to ideas

UPS MAN CAME TODAY!!!!!! HERE IS A SKETCH OF A POSSIBLE BOX DESIGN - I'M STILL DECIDING IF I CAN PULL IT OFF TO ACTUALLY LOOK GOOD , OR IF IT WILL LOOK DUMB (i do want some speakers back there to play when i'm skate/snowboarding or for car shows) Here are some dimensions i have to work with: 37.5" width between wheel humps preffered 26" height or less(keeps it somewhat below windowling for dB drag points) wheel humps are 10 inch tall, then on top of them i have an additinal 7" width on each side

I live up near the twin cities in MN, I can find plenty of 1/2 and 3/4" MDF at menards, home depot is rumored to have some but they must always be sold out. I havn't checked lowes yet. But anyways, i would liike some 1" mdf for my next build, anyone knwo where it can be found?

I would really really like to get a hold of scott or someone at fi if they would be willing to give me ideas, but i'm sick of sending emails.... do they have a number???? it sure as hell is impossible to find on their site it seems like.

I have a 97 s-10 blazer. The box will be in the back and will form aroudn the wheel humps to maximize space and look better. The sub will be facing up (centered) and the port will be facing the tailgate at the bottom of the box. The port will go along the bottom of the box and 90 degree up the back if i need that much port. I don't have exact dimensions between wheel humps and all, but i'll get that tomrrow.... all i'm looking for is like cubic feet and port size (i'm a wizard at math, so i can figure out rest, and i have WinISD beta)

Hey, I am getting my fi audio 18" w/BP option tomorrow. Spring break is coming up next week and I need to design a box before then. I have been looking all over the internet and contacting various people, but I can't seem to get a solid answer on what size box or port to use. I will be using bxi1206d for now and prolly upgrading to bxi1606d or kicker zx series soon. I have about 8 cubes to work with, but i would prefer more on the 6-7 range. I know these subs like to be tuned very low, like 28 hz or something (even though that seems too low)... So IF ANYONE COULD TELL ME HOW MANY CUBES AND HOW MANY SQ IN FOR PORT that would be awsome!!!!! I want whatever will sound optimal. Maybe somewhere between SPL and SQ, maybe more on the sq side, doesn't really matter. I am going to do sub up with double baffle, and port back on bottom. All inner port edges will be routered or maybe i'll slit and bend the mdf too. IT's gonna be a sweet build, look for pics. All i know is i havn't had any ideas on how to finish it (carpet, paint, naked, idk). BTW, this guy is a wizard at box building and i may try to copy some of it: http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/8/26691.html

All i know is i have spring break in two weeks, and if i dont' get it by then, i will have to wait till summer to do the build!!!

does anyone know how to get hold of fi??? Like a phone number? Cause i'm starting to get worried...

included: -06S15L72 (dual 2) -bxi1206d (hifonics brutus puts out about 1050 clean watts at one ohm) - 5.5 Cubes ported box (crx style, double baffle, countersunk, percision ports (cost $60 just for ports))

I'm selling my system, because i woke up one day and bought an fi 18 - so I need to sell this to pay for it, haha I've never heard a kicker L7 system sound anywhere near this good. Between the box, the sub, and the amp, it is a perfect match. The box is tuned to 33hz, and the system peaks in my car at 142.9dB at 37hz!!! (which basically means the sub is extrememly musical, and plays the low notes very well). Wheather you are playing low notes, or high notes, this setup will play loud and sound amazing in most frequencies. That is why it is so special to me. I don't want to sell it, but like most of you guys, I need to get my hands dirty and build new boxes and play with new subs every few months. I am asking $500 or b/o for whole setup i would also sell jsut sub and box for $300 or b/o I am in a hurry to sell, so I may be willing to play aroudn with the price I live in central MN, so obviously pickup is best, but I will think about shipping parts of it if needed. I am a certified installer, box builder, and electrical engineering student, so you can be sure that this sub was never abused. Here is a vid http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2269021666746360262 **note this was when the sub was a few days old, so I had not broken it in yet, it gets about 30% louder now, and also the roof flex is after 4 layers of dynamat extreme **

I ordered mine on feb 19th and despite some unanswered emails to scott, I don't even have a tracking # yet. All the thing says is order/payment recieved. I don't care if it takes a while to build these things, but if you are going to run a business, you owe it to your customers to hire enough help to at least reply to emails or give a number to call... I think it is a joke that I have no idea how my order is doing or how to contact anyone

they are the kappas, better than ref, not as good as perfect i think they look cooler than the white perfects tho, haha I have heard a LOT of component speakers in my days and they always are too harsh on the highs, or not enough highs, or jsut don't blend right..... THESE are the best blend of highs/mids, just the best all around balance i have heard yet in a component

I used one of the three supplied mounts.... shaved all the excess plastic off of it so it is just the round part, and then i glassed that in, with a piece of wood under one side of it to give it a tilting look.... Then i glassed up on the sides of it and over it and then i had to dremel the glass so the tweets would still fit in it..... it wasn't easy but turned out great.

Let's just say sitting in my car is a pleasent experience

Here is a project I decided to do one day. Got the speakers for $80 (best buy accom.) and a RF 200.2 I keep my workshop/tools next to my bed in my apt. , and do all the work in the parking lot... (yeah, i'm a poor college student). But i whipped this together in about an afternoon's time, so tell me what u think. It's kind of a unique idea, most ppl do the whole door, but i decided to just chop it up... And this like my 4th fiberglass project, i'm capable of better, but i usually don't put too much effort or money in my car because it's kinda old and beat up.

ok, i ordered a fully loaded 18" fi Q.... I don't feel like spending money on percision ports this time, so what kinda box dimensions should i use to make a ported box that can get the most out of the really low 30 or so hz. range.... I don't wanna make a 55hz SPL machine, i want some sq