KickerAudio21

here's proof i had an fi

Hey now... I had an 18" Q in there last month... I like this setup way better. You can't really expect good results from fi subs unless u have an expensive, good quality amp on it . I go through so many systems, and i like to represent fi, so i didn't take sticker off. I'm all about cheap systems cause i'm broke and in college, these infinity subs werel ike $44 each

Check it out, and leave lots of feedback. I've had all kinds of systems in my day, this one is pretty sweet, loud as shit (~144dB is my guess) and best sound quality of anything i've ever heard

Yeah dude, back in the day I remember tryin to hustle out 6 hour installs before work and I barley made it on time, they always take longer than ya think

Sorry to be critical, but you coulda hacked off a good foot or two of power line in the engine - dc power doesn't like long wire lengths, that's why edison got shut down. Also, seems like ur ground is grounded on upper deck. That works fine, but it's much better to ground it to main frame, not secondary shit welded onto the frame; that'll help reduce dimming lights and all. Looks like some fun equipment, good job!

Yeah, them hifonics amps are wierd.... I swear by them, been installing and using the 06' line for years and never had a single issue. They kick ass. But then my bxi1206d just started having a dirty output and the same week my buddies started acting up. Crunch probably has the same internals for the most part, but overall they are a great amp, both of them. People like me can't afford kicker or RF power.

And I had a perfect once too.... def. not worth the money. I mean reference sound amazing as they are, you don't gain much for the extra 100 dollars. For what it's worth my kappa components have the best highs I've heard in jsut about any component. What i mean by that is like i've heard CDT and the one i heard had way too bright of highs, and like same with RF, but the Infinity kappa has a great blend of mellow highs and midbass, pretty sweet. So when i get straight up infinity, it'll be a fun time to drive in.

I have kappa components, but i'm getting the reference subs.... The kappa subs are engineered to be lightweight. I'm not a fan of their lightweight magnets, and I bet anything the reference sound better.

I'm tryin to figure how many watts the crunch will put out..... Down the road I will seal my 3 infinities and i want a solid 1100 rms or so for that. For now it will be ported and 900 rms will suffice (1.333 ohm)

obviously best buy's boom room is not a good judge of subs, but I'm sure you got a sneak peak on the Amazing tightness and SQ of a reference series infinity. I've had just about every major brand of sub in my car at one point from fi 18"s down to kicker 10's, and I'm about to order 3 12" reference series tonight, it will be amazing. P.S. - I was fed up with the boom room design, so I submitted my new design idea to corporate when i was an employee and they used my design. So now when you go to the boom room, when u see subs in different boxes, that was part my idea. They had it all wrong before. I said they should to some inifnity 10's ported.

Don't listen to these guys, infinity reference series are some of the best mid-low end subs you can buy. They have the amazing ability to sound AMAZING in just about any sized sealed box, unlike most subs out there. They also sound amazing ported. throw a 10 inch type r in a .75 cube sealed box and it will sound like shit... almost no bass at all.... throw a 10 inch infinity in there and you will be BLOWN away. I actually have experience with this because i unfortunatly installed at best buy for 2 years and I prefered the infinity over every single other sub there when you look at them all around. A p3 or Type R can get louder if it is in the right setup, but all around the infinity is an amazing sub.

nice link!! Sorry if this is posted in wrong section, but it does relate to subs kinda What do other ppl think?

I will have three infinity 1250w (single 4 ohm) subs in ported box. That is 1.3333 Req. I can get GP2500 for $218 on onlinecarstereo http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18350 I can get the anniversary edition bxi1208d for $250 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=19580 They both claim to be 1250x1ohm which means 1000 or so with maxxonics i'd assume. Just got off the phone with tech and they said they improved the brutus over the 06 models, but he siad to go with the groundpounder. PLEASE HELP, i'll order tonight!!!!! $418 shipped ain't bad for 3 12's and an amp.

With about 1350 RMS, the L7 will cook if he's anything but a good installer. They don't like too much over their rated power, unless its the 2008 model, which I hear is built a little better. I just got done running a 15" L7 and then a 18" Q off a bxi1206d and the Q could handle WAY more power then 1000 watts rms and the L7 got a little smelly on some songs when i was at comps. BUT swear to god the L7 just sounded better. The Q didn't sound nearly as musical. Couldn't hit high notes for shit. Is a 15" Q any better?? maybe a little, but i liked my L7 better and i'm never buying FI again. I think sometimes people on this site get a little too hyped up about these brands that are "in style" or w/e. Fi is cheap as hell though for a uber quality product, i'll give it that.

IDK how the DC's sound sealed, but I can tell you that infinity 1052w sound better in smaller sealed enclosures than any alpine or RF , especially for 10's. Infinitys are kinda on the cheaper side though; you can probably do better for the money. All I know is when I hear somone wants 10's sealed, it'si hard to beat the amazing sound of infinity reference.

I have a 90 amp stock alt and almost zero dimming with 2 channel 500 watt and 1600 hifonics. Try redoing your amp grounds with zero gauge , not combining grounds of your two amps, but grounding them near each other on the solid frame of your vehicle. No screw grounds, solid bolts. Also make sure you ground it to the main frame; the same frame your battery is grounded to, not a secondary welded frame, liek the rear deck or even seat belt bolts are welded on i think.

I have a hifonics bxi1206d (very similar amp, half the parts are prolly the same) and i just started getting a buzzing noise out of the outputs. IF YOU DECIDE ON WHAT THE CAUSE IS PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!! Seems like you think it's diode packs??? Tell me if the replacement works!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/18-FI-Audio-Q-Series-S...1QQcmdZViewItem Sub is in NEW condition. Just thought i'd post a link for anyone interested. I bought it about 3 months ago and there was a one month wait on the subs from fi ... , idk if there is still a wait, but this is a good chance to get a fully upgraded Q!!!

2 AWG is kinda close to zero gauge with most reliable brands, but there are some brands that cheat and have as much copper as 4 gauge and just put extra thick coating aroudn the wire. With that much power, you will be missing out a lot if you don't do zero gauge all around. (assuming you have an suv or trunked car, a pickup or short length is ok with 2 ga.). I would reccomend knu konceptz or usually u can get a stinger pro kit for under $100 if you look around. Make sure you get zero gauge and do big three. Your battery's neg. terminal must be groudned with same ga. as your power wire for best results.

It will be loud as long as you do the box up right. Looks like you will be using a good amount of power (2100 rms i'm guessing). Make sure you get a good battery up front and preferably a batt in back. Also big three. I'm not a big fan of caps, but if money is not an issue, definatly go for it. Just make sure you don't have any weak links and it'lll be loud as fu$k

I just spent 6 months trying to fix some form of alt whine, and then soeone told me to wrap a wire around outer coaxial of RCA going into FRONT preout and tie it to the cage (deck). Worked like a charm, now i can enjoy music. So try that if your ground loop methods dont' work

i'm starting a thread in member build show off or w/e its' called

one more thing... from reading on termpro forum, it seems that winISD does not take port size into account for outter box dimensions. Therefor if i go with the 6.3 cu. ft box and 90 sq. inch of port., my total box size will be about 8.4 cubic feet. Because me 26x3.5x31 inch port takes up about 2.14 cubic inches with 3/4" mdf included. Does this sound right, or should i just go with 6.3 cubic feet with porot included....?

Awsome, i never knew about the vent mach rule of 1x8, that's cool though. i will do about 3.5x26, which will give me my ~90 sq. inches, and give it 32.75 length (according to winISD) - tuned to 30 hz. THANK YOU SOOOOOOOO MUCH for you patience, i'm kinda slow. Hopefully it'll turn out pretty cool. The only part of the build i'm undecided on is how to finish the box. the only good carpet i can find is the stuff at best buy, but it is in smaller sections, so it'll be hard to make it look flawless. There isn't too much good (by good i mean thin, easy to bend, good charcole color) carpet to be found around the twin cities.... I may consider vynil, but that can look tacky on such a bix box. I don't have the money to texture paint or bedliner it i don't think.

so the ~100 sq. inches only referes to the hole size cut in the box and the lenght of the port depends on tuning? winISD says if my port is 35x3" then the lenght of the port would be 35" (the 37.5" i quoted is between wheel humps), that will give me 30hz tuning for electromechanical parameters of an fi Q 18"