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diegoclass2010

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Posts posted by diegoclass2010

  1. Do another run from alt back and I would do a ground run at the very least from alt case to battery negative in rear.

    ok... now thats a new one for me... getting the ground from the basket alt... but if it works it work... last question do you guys think i still need the other battery?? or should i just try with the wire and see what happens???

    What is your voltage difference at the alt verses at the amp? If is over .5 volt then more wire is a must.

    i have never checked but i do a sum the same since the front battery and the back battery have the same voltage, and the amps are about 2 feet to 4 Feet away from the back battery all running in 4 Gauge wire since they are short runs, just so i dont get no one confused and say its to small of a wire they are only carrying 80 Amps on 3 amps and the other 2 amps carry 50 amps, since i have a total of 5 amps... back to the subject i haven't check so i would have to get back to you on that one
  2. check your grounds and maybe have another run of 1/0 to back batteries

    right now i have the stock alt and i have no voltage drop. i have 3 runs of wire to my back batteries. you shouldnt have a problem with the 270a alt you have

    edit: damn ninja

    now that you remind me about grounds i never sanded anything when doing the big 3 well the one to the motor should not that much of a problem since it was bare metal.. but the other one connected to he chassis i know i did have some paint... :fool:
  3. whats up guys, so im having some voltage drop in my electrical system.. just to give you guys some info i have about 340 Amp of current drawn from all my amps, i have a the big 3 all done with zero gauge wire stinger spp1200 front battery and then 1 run of zero gauge wire to a XS Power D3100 back battery and all amps are hook up to the back battery... i have a DC 270 Alt charging 15.1 Volts cold then 14.4V when hot. I know i should of got the 350 alt but i was a NOOB back then, well still are but learning more... when playing my system at full tilt my voltage drops to 12.3Volts on really bass heavy songs, or on normal songs at 13.8-13 sometimes 11.9 on High notes of bass (dont know why, since the subs dont move that much lol XD :noob: )... any help would be appreciated

  4. couldn't find anything useful, sorry. But if i was to build a fiberglass kick panel i would aim the mids towards the passenger, and from passenger towards driver, slightly about 35-40 degrees, so that way the bass won't bounce around, tell you the truth it is all a preference, hook them up to an amp, sit them down somewhere where you feel most comfortable with and see how it ranges inside the car, even slight movement from left to right might get you on the right track.

    thanks for looking :)... i found something online that i might just give it a try...

    1. Make sure your driver’s seat is positioned exactly where it will be when you drive your car. Next, try and position the passenger seat to match the driver’s side. This will make the sound much more uniform from both seats.

    2. With the windows rolled up, sit in the driver’s seat and have a friend very carefully spot where the opening is on your left ear. Mark it on the window with a felt tip pen or grease pencil. This is very critical that they get the alignment correct. Make sure they understand this. Better yet, try and find someone with your exact height and build to sit in the car and you do the marking.

    3. Move to the other side and repeat the process.

    4. Using a level, measure 5" forward and 1.5" down from the spot that you marked on each window and add another mark. This is the spot that you will be aiming you speakers at.

    5. When creating the baffles that you will be mounting the speakers to, it is best to have the tweeter mounted as close to the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup) as possible but on the side towards the door. Imagine a square with the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup) mounted to it. You would want the tweeter to sit in the upper corner of the square closest to the door but right up against the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup).

    6. In the next step it helps to have a laser pointer but a long wooden dowel will work as well. Aim the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup) exactly at the spot on the glass that you marked. This will take advantage of reflections off the glass. The right speaker will reflect off the left glass into your left ear and help equalize the sound you hear from both speakers. I know that it may sound strange but it actually works very well. I have done many installs using these alignment techniques and they all had one thing in common. Excellent staging and imaging ..

    what do you guys think will it work??

  5. What year is the malibu. I built a pair for mine. I can help you out. I taped the area twice and used some chop matte to create a mold. I trimmed it with a dremel. Made dowels to hold the baffle and glued them together to the mold. Stapled t-shirt material over that and glassed that. Hit it with a couple more layers of matte sprayed some rubberized coating on the inside and lined it with 1 1/2" acoustic foam. That's the short and dirty version to give you an idea. There is alot more to it.

    The center console may draw the stage down. If it is a two way you could mount the woofer in the kick and put the tweet in the sail? I'll refer to Cableguy on that.

    its a malibu 2008.. yup i also think i will be taking this approach to it
  6. I like the driver side set aiming towards the passenger ... and the passenger set aiming towards the driver ...

    Is this for SQ or louder music ??

    Yea i also thought this would be best.. this is mostly for SQ... hopefully tomorrow i can start building :)
  7. Whats up guys so I'm planning on doing kick panels for my Chevy malibu... i currently have 1 Component set in my front stage but I'm not digging it to much... so i decided I'm building kick panels since they dont sell any :(... since this will be my first kick panels build and also working with fiberglass, I dont know where to aim the speakers at... i have two choice first choice is aiming them in front of you... or next option is cross firing them (meaning the driver side aiming at the passenger head rest and vice versa) any help would be appreciated :).. i also took some picture to you guys can take a look... i can do either one

    First choice aiming towards you

    2012-03-06_16-20-46_272.jpg

    second choise aiming them to the other side

    2012-03-06_16-22-23_542.jpg

  8. check it out guy i just finished up my alt install yesterday sorry for taking so long but i been busy... 2012-02-22_10-46-29_952.jpgso heres the weak 125 amp alt, next to it my DC 270 XP Alt :)

    http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/whatisit2006/2012-02-22_17-09-08_313.jpg all installed and ready to go :)

    2012-02-22_17-09-32_467.jpgthats the final setup i know i dint make a close up on the power wire from the alt to the battery but its running on the back edge of the back wall then it comes down to the battery

    2012-02-22_17-09-40_649.jpgheres how i connected everything one positive zero gauge wire from alt to battery, then the other zero gauge wire from primary battery to breaker then to second battery (XS power d3100) in the back that i will hopefully install next week :),

    2012-02-22_17-09-55_453.jpgheres one negative ground from battery to chasie all stinger zero gauge

    2012-02-22_17-10-10_662.jpgthen another run of negative Zero gauge from battery to engine block.

    2012-02-22_17-09-48_534.jpgso what do you guys think about my install, any advice? the only thing i am worried is that my stinger volt meter is measuring my alt is charging a 15.3 volt, is that right? or is it because i still haven't added my d3100 in the back and that will lower my voltage?

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