-
Posts
764 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by diegoclass2010
-
-
yea i still dont have a clue why since the bass it makes is pretty crappy, and it dont even move that much airsometimes 11.9 on High notes of bass (dont know why, since the subs dont move that much lol XD )... any help would be appreciated
I've noticed that the sub moves MORE in the upper range of my box...
-
i have never checked but i do a sum the same since the front battery and the back battery have the same voltage, and the amps are about 2 feet to 4 Feet away from the back battery all running in 4 Gauge wire since they are short runs, just so i dont get no one confused and say its to small of a wire they are only carrying 80 Amps on 3 amps and the other 2 amps carry 50 amps, since i have a total of 5 amps... back to the subject i haven't check so i would have to get back to you on that one
ok... now thats a new one for me... getting the ground from the basket alt... but if it works it work... last question do you guys think i still need the other battery?? or should i just try with the wire and see what happens???Do another run from alt back and I would do a ground run at the very least from alt case to battery negative in rear.
What is your voltage difference at the alt verses at the amp? If is over .5 volt then more wire is a must.
-
ok... now thats a new one for me... getting the ground from the basket alt... but if it works it work... last question do you guys think i still need the other battery?? or should i just try with the wire and see what happens???Do another run from alt back and I would do a ground run at the very least from alt case to battery negative in rear.
-
now that you remind me about grounds i never sanded anything when doing the big 3 well the one to the motor should not that much of a problem since it was bare metal.. but the other one connected to he chassis i know i did have some paint...check your grounds and maybe have another run of 1/0 to back batteries
right now i have the stock alt and i have no voltage drop. i have 3 runs of wire to my back batteries. you shouldnt have a problem with the 270a alt you have
edit: damn ninja
-
what do you mean by more wire add another run of Zero gauge?? or how many?? this time from the alt to the back battery??? and i think another battery would really help
-
whats up guys, so im having some voltage drop in my electrical system.. just to give you guys some info i have about 340 Amp of current drawn from all my amps, i have a the big 3 all done with zero gauge wire stinger spp1200 front battery and then 1 run of zero gauge wire to a XS Power D3100 back battery and all amps are hook up to the back battery... i have a DC 270 Alt charging 15.1 Volts cold then 14.4V when hot. I know i should of got the 350 alt but i was a NOOB back then, well still are but learning more... when playing my system at full tilt my voltage drops to 12.3Volts on really bass heavy songs, or on normal songs at 13.8-13 sometimes 11.9 on High notes of bass (dont know why, since the subs dont move that much lol XD )... any help would be appreciated
-
thanks for looking ... i found something online that i might just give it a try...couldn't find anything useful, sorry. But if i was to build a fiberglass kick panel i would aim the mids towards the passenger, and from passenger towards driver, slightly about 35-40 degrees, so that way the bass won't bounce around, tell you the truth it is all a preference, hook them up to an amp, sit them down somewhere where you feel most comfortable with and see how it ranges inside the car, even slight movement from left to right might get you on the right track.
1. Make sure your driver’s seat is positioned exactly where it will be when you drive your car. Next, try and position the passenger seat to match the driver’s side. This will make the sound much more uniform from both seats.
2. With the windows rolled up, sit in the driver’s seat and have a friend very carefully spot where the opening is on your left ear. Mark it on the window with a felt tip pen or grease pencil. This is very critical that they get the alignment correct. Make sure they understand this. Better yet, try and find someone with your exact height and build to sit in the car and you do the marking.
3. Move to the other side and repeat the process.
4. Using a level, measure 5" forward and 1.5" down from the spot that you marked on each window and add another mark. This is the spot that you will be aiming you speakers at.
5. When creating the baffles that you will be mounting the speakers to, it is best to have the tweeter mounted as close to the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup) as possible but on the side towards the door. Imagine a square with the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup) mounted to it. You would want the tweeter to sit in the upper corner of the square closest to the door but right up against the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup).
6. In the next step it helps to have a laser pointer but a long wooden dowel will work as well. Aim the woofer (or midrange in a 3-way setup) exactly at the spot on the glass that you marked. This will take advantage of reflections off the glass. The right speaker will reflect off the left glass into your left ear and help equalize the sound you hear from both speakers. I know that it may sound strange but it actually works very well. I have done many installs using these alignment techniques and they all had one thing in common. Excellent staging and imaging ..
what do you guys think will it work??
-
its a malibu 2008.. yup i also think i will be taking this approach to itWhat year is the malibu. I built a pair for mine. I can help you out. I taped the area twice and used some chop matte to create a mold. I trimmed it with a dremel. Made dowels to hold the baffle and glued them together to the mold. Stapled t-shirt material over that and glassed that. Hit it with a couple more layers of matte sprayed some rubberized coating on the inside and lined it with 1 1/2" acoustic foam. That's the short and dirty version to give you an idea. There is alot more to it.
The center console may draw the stage down. If it is a two way you could mount the woofer in the kick and put the tweet in the sail? I'll refer to Cableguy on that.
-
Yea i also thought this would be best.. this is mostly for SQ... hopefully tomorrow i can start buildingI like the driver side set aiming towards the passenger ... and the passenger set aiming towards the driver ...
Is this for SQ or louder music ??
-
come on guys no help???
-
Whats up guys so I'm planning on doing kick panels for my Chevy malibu... i currently have 1 Component set in my front stage but I'm not digging it to much... so i decided I'm building kick panels since they dont sell any ... since this will be my first kick panels build and also working with fiberglass, I dont know where to aim the speakers at... i have two choice first choice is aiming them in front of you... or next option is cross firing them (meaning the driver side aiming at the passenger head rest and vice versa) any help would be appreciated .. i also took some picture to you guys can take a look... i can do either one
First choice aiming towards you
second choise aiming them to the other side
-
check it out guy i just finished up my alt install yesterday sorry for taking so long but i been busy... so heres the weak 125 amp alt, next to it my DC 270 XP Alt
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/whatisit2006/2012-02-22_17-09-08_313.jpg all installed and ready to go
thats the final setup i know i dint make a close up on the power wire from the alt to the battery but its running on the back edge of the back wall then it comes down to the battery
heres how i connected everything one positive zero gauge wire from alt to battery, then the other zero gauge wire from primary battery to breaker then to second battery (XS power d3100) in the back that i will hopefully install next week ,
heres one negative ground from battery to chasie all stinger zero gauge
then another run of negative Zero gauge from battery to engine block.
so what do you guys think about my install, any advice? the only thing i am worried is that my stinger volt meter is measuring my alt is charging a 15.3 volt, is that right? or is it because i still haven't added my d3100 in the back and that will lower my voltage?
-
I believe he said he was going to do 0 aug.
0 aug sounds good man. Post up some pics when doing the install so we get a visual of what your really doing
will do has soon as i get my alt which will be in about a week or so
-
Only that it´s not forgotten, did you di Big 3.
yes sir.. and thing else you might think im missing?
-
I "erased" the other thread.
thanks man
-
Any reason for 2 threads?
no clue how do you erase the other post?
-
im going to be using stinger 0 gauge wire
-
my set up will be running 3,500 RMS i just got a dc power 270 alt and will be running 0 gauge wire from alt to a spp 1200 stinger battery up front then an XS power D3100 in the back and i was wondering if this set up looks right? any suggestion would be helpful
Voltage Drop BIG TIME :(
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted